Mark944na86

I notice that there seem to be three different approaches to this from three different write-ups I'm looking at, so I thought I'd ask for opinions.

In Clark's clutch job write-up, he says:

16. Support the transaxle with a floor jack.
17. Disconnect the fuel filter from the transaxle support cross-member and remove the two bolts (M10) that attach the transaxle cross-member to the chassis.
18. Move the transaxle toward the rear of the car enough to slide the shift linkage tube out of the way and disconnect the drive shaft clamping sleeve.
19. Lower the transaxle as you move it rearward to clear the spare tire well.
20. Once the shift linkage tube is removed and the drive shaft is clear of the transaxle, lower the transaxle from the car.

This sounds like he is saying to leave the transaxle attached to the cross-member at the mount, and the lower them both out together.

Another write-up I'm referencing suggests unbolting the cross-member so it can be moved sideways to disengage the transaxle from the mount, before lowering the transaxle out on the jack. But in this case the cross-member stays in the car (at least for the transaxle removal step).

Finally, the FSM seems to be suggesting that the cross-member is left bolted in place while the transaxle is simply disconnected at the transmission mount before lowering out. (Well, I say "simply", but it looks like it is actually kind of hard to get at those two transmission mount bolts of course...)

So what are people experience with this step? Unbolt the cross-member or not? Lower transaxle with cross-member still attached or not? (if this is actually what Clark is saying...)

Thanks for any advice.

Techno Duck

Well the crossmember has to come out no matter what to get the torque tube slid back if i remember right. I found it much easier to disconnect the transaxle from the mount, then remove the crossmember afterwords. Getting those two bolts for the mount is pretty easy, just use a long extension and socket.

Getting the transaxle back in was a real pain in the butt even with a tranny jack and the car on a lift for my friend and i. It was mainly getting it lined up, and the fact i have the cooler loop made it even more annoying. What i did was bolt the crossmember back up loosely to the transaxle, then with the trans on a tranny jack we were able to maneuver it into place... its a real pain in the butt. My friend actually had to pick up the trans over his shoulder off the jack while i threaded in the two bolts for the crossmember... im lucky hes a pretty strong guy cause my scrawny *** could definetley not do that!

BTW, i think getting the trans out and back in was one of the most annoying parts of the entire clutch job. Infact i need to take it out again to replace the trans mount (more on that below), replace the torque tube and drop the rear suspension so i can reindex the torsion bars (doing this all in one shot). A combination of having to disconnect the CV joints (i hate doing this), dropping the thing onto the tranny jack...then getting the trans lined back up, having to keep jiggling the trans to get the coupler slid back on, redo the CV joints..ugh, what an annoying job.

I highly recommend getting a new trans mount if you havent already. Mine was completely shot after 120k miles, it was laughable how much it flexed.

Mark944na86

Thanks Jon. I'll look into the trans mount. Glad to hear getting the trans disconnected from the mount isn't as hard as it looks -- although getting it back in sounds like a different story!

Oh well -- one step at a time. BTW, I'm thinking of putting clear cling wrap and rubber bands over the open ends of the CV couplings... all that grease looks like it just wants to end up in my hair. Messy. Also don't want to get it contaminated.

JohnKoaWood

Not hard at all to get the 2 mount bolts off, and no real reason to remove the cross member unless you are replacing the mount.. although I find it easier to re-install the trans connected to the cross member..

jerome951

FWIW. I dropped the trans still connected to the crossmember a bit, then disconnected the crossmember. I was doing the job myself w/ a jack and this gave me something to hold onto to steady the tranny. Going back in, I jacked the tranny up partially, connected the x-member, then finished raising.

Getting the tranny angled just right to get the clamping sleeve slid back onto the torque tube was one of my most frustrating jobs on this car... ever....

alpinewhite951

I am getting ready to drop my trans, and this may sound stupid, but when I bolt the trans back onto the torque tube, won't the sleeve be pretty much aligned, and ready to slide on?

jerome951

In theory, yes. In application, possibly not. Even after tightening the mounting bolts between the TT flange and tranny case, my sleeve was off a bit (even left the TT-> clutch housing bolts loose). Had to loosen the tranny bolts and massage it a little. That clamp sleeve has a really tight tolerance so you have to be dead nuts on.

Eric_Oz_S2

I started off with the intention of dropping the cross member but it was difficult because of the need to remove the fuel hoses in order for the cross member to clear them were they protruded from beside the tank. It was much simpler to remove the two small bolts from the mount and drop the trans that way. I think also the cross member would get caught on the heat shield from the exhaust (which is quite large on the S2). The heat shield looked like a real bugger to remove and was another reason just to drop the trans itself - very easily done by yourself with a decent trolley jack.

Mark944na86

I bought the trans jack adaptor and fitted it to my trolley jack, and thought "this is going to be easy".

Never think that. Never even think of thinking that.

The adaptor itself is a fine piece of kit (well, for $89 or whatever). What I didn't consider closely enough was that the jack I was attaching it to might not have the necessary throw to do the job efficiently. By that, I mean it has enough of a range in height to be able to lower the trans far enough to back it out from under the rear of the car.

From looking at it, I estimate the trans has to be dropped about 11" or so for it to clear. My jack doesn't have that much range, so what I think I will have to do is

a) lower the car height on the stands so the trans jack cradle can reach the trans
b) drop trans into jack cradle and lower trans jack
c) raise car height on stands so the trans on trans jack has the clearance to back out

bummer! But I guess it will work. I could always use it as an excuse to buy a bigger jack, I suppose...

Eric_Oz_S2

or (d) I could take mine over to your place and give you a hand? Mine is an ultra low lift 63mm-500mm range. Would that do it?

Wouldn't need the adaptor then anyway.

Mark944na86

Don't say that, I spent $89 on it!

500-63 = 437mm = 17.2" (so yes, I think that would work.)

I will give it a go tomorrow, and if I need plan d), I would certainly appreciate your help.

Sounds like an impressive jack. Is that the $300 one from Trade Tools Direct?

Eric_Oz_S2

That's the one. I used to buy cheap jacks and got 'jack' of them. The Omega jack from TT is brilliant (just very heavy) as it is so stable and has a very controllable release.

Mark944na86

Sounds like I might need an upgrade. I did buy two sets of 5T jack stands from TT, and am quite happy with them -- they are big and feel very solid. Just need a matching jack now to go with them.

BTW, I just sent you an email with my contact details.