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Evans Coolant on the way!

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Old 08-12-2010, 01:19 PM
  #16  
theedge
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I dont remember mine running any hotter when I switched to Evans. I also had a whole new system though, only "used" part was the heater core.
Old 08-12-2010, 02:40 PM
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manticore33
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Tom: You have to love BMW plastics! My expansion tank on my e39 has a small, small pin-hole that dribbles a little bit. It annoys me, but not enough to pony up the $50 just yet. However, it is quite effective at making me loathe newer BMWs.
Old 08-12-2010, 04:25 PM
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333pg333
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What's the problem with a bit of water being in the system when using Evans?
Old 08-13-2010, 10:37 AM
  #19  
toddk911
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Well, actually I got gun shy, and held off as I was worried about being able to get all the water out of the system, even with the flush.

A. Is it possible without dropping parts of the motor/cooling system to get all the water out?

B. What are the ramifications if there is still some water in the system while running the Evans?
Old 08-13-2010, 11:54 AM
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IMB951
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Maybe you could take the flush to a shop and have them run it through your system with one of those pressurized flush rigs?
Old 08-13-2010, 06:55 PM
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Any other changes need to be made when running Evans? I.E. is there any point to the radiator cap holding pressure?
Old 08-15-2010, 12:10 AM
  #22  
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Anyone?
Old 08-15-2010, 12:17 PM
  #23  
944CS
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It is recommended to run a lower pressure cap
Old 08-15-2010, 01:15 PM
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theedge
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You do need a cap, as you want a sealed system. You dont want to leave it open in a bucket or anything as it will absorb a bit of water and become less effective.

Also, IMHO, its a bit foolish to not replace the rad drain, bleeder bolt, and block drain bolts with some sort of valve. Ive done this on all three with a ball valve that I can attach a hose to, so I can drain it into containers easily without spillage and wasting money.
Old 08-15-2010, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by theedge
You do need a cap, as you want a sealed system. You dont want to leave it open in a bucket or anything as it will absorb a bit of water and become less effective.

Also, IMHO, its a bit foolish to not replace the rad drain, bleeder bolt, and block drain bolts with some sort of valve. Ive done this on all three with a ball valve that I can attach a hose to, so I can drain it into containers easily without spillage and wasting money.

do you have pictures of the ball valve ?
Old 08-16-2010, 02:21 AM
  #26  
theedge
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Originally Posted by DLS
do you have pictures of the ball valve ?
Ill get some better ones but heres a few.



Old 08-16-2010, 09:01 AM
  #27  
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Loving those headers!



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