BLEW HEAD GASKET!!! (pics inside) some questions needing answers
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O-ringed is when a machinist cuts a groove around the top of your cylinders, and installs steel or copper O-ring in the head around the combustion chamber that protrudes enough to fit into the groove that was cut into the cylinder. Yours block was definitely O-ringed if you look at the top of your cylinders you will see a groove cut out.
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And there is somewhat of an argument about if a MLS headgasket can be used with an O-ringed head/block. Some people say they have done it with no problems, others say its not a good idea and wont seal well.
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well it happend because the line for the wastegate broke and it overboosted.... what do you mean "o-ringed" how can you tell?.... eveything looks good besides the head... it needs resurfaced or just cleaned pretty good..... if you look at the gasket it was falling apart everywhere so i was asuming it was on its way out already.... i looked in the paperwork that i have for the car since new and it had the receipt for the headgasket about 50k miles ago.....
this isnt my first rodeo.... i have rebuilt many motors before just no porsche motors....
this isnt my first rodeo.... i have rebuilt many motors before just no porsche motors....
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Did you get to see how high a spike in psi you saw before the HG blew
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Last edited by 951_RS; 02-17-2010 at 05:21 PM.
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You mentioned that you over boosted, do you know what your final boost number was? Usually when the vacuum line to the waste gate breaks or gets a hole in it the maximum pressure it will boost to is the spring rating, which in most of our cases is around 11 psi.
The number 4 piston where your gasket blew has a steam lock issue in the cooling jacket, which may be the actual culprit. While you have the head off you may want to look at putting in Lindsey's Steam Vent Line. This will drastically improve your cooling efficiency as it helps eliminate the cooling lock issues. You also don't have to worry about bleeding the system as it is self bleeding after installation.
Since this is your first Porsche rebuild get very friendly with www.clarks-garage.com as they have pretty good instructions on everything you are about to do. The heads in particular need to be torqued in a certain sequence and if you do not do them in the designated fashion you do so at your own peril.
As for being o-ringed, that looks like gasket debris to me.
The number 4 piston where your gasket blew has a steam lock issue in the cooling jacket, which may be the actual culprit. While you have the head off you may want to look at putting in Lindsey's Steam Vent Line. This will drastically improve your cooling efficiency as it helps eliminate the cooling lock issues. You also don't have to worry about bleeding the system as it is self bleeding after installation.
Since this is your first Porsche rebuild get very friendly with www.clarks-garage.com as they have pretty good instructions on everything you are about to do. The heads in particular need to be torqued in a certain sequence and if you do not do them in the designated fashion you do so at your own peril.
As for being o-ringed, that looks like gasket debris to me.
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You mentioned that you over boosted, do you know what your final boost number was? Usually when the vacuum line to the waste gate breaks or gets a hole in it the maximum pressure it will boost to is the spring rating, which in most of our cases is around 11 psi.
The number 4 piston where your gasket blew has a steam lock issue in the cooling jacket, which may be the actual culprit. While you have the head off you may want to look at putting in Lindsey's Steam Vent Line. This will drastically improve your cooling efficiency as it helps eliminate the cooling lock issues. You also don't have to worry about bleeding the system as it is self bleeding after installation.
Since this is your first Porsche rebuild get very friendly with www.clarks-garage.com as they have pretty good instructions on everything you are about to do. The heads in particular need to be torqued in a certain sequence and if you do not do them in the designated fashion you do so at your own peril.
As for being o-ringed, that looks like gasket debris to me.
The number 4 piston where your gasket blew has a steam lock issue in the cooling jacket, which may be the actual culprit. While you have the head off you may want to look at putting in Lindsey's Steam Vent Line. This will drastically improve your cooling efficiency as it helps eliminate the cooling lock issues. You also don't have to worry about bleeding the system as it is self bleeding after installation.
Since this is your first Porsche rebuild get very friendly with www.clarks-garage.com as they have pretty good instructions on everything you are about to do. The heads in particular need to be torqued in a certain sequence and if you do not do them in the designated fashion you do so at your own peril.
As for being o-ringed, that looks like gasket debris to me.
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From http://www.cometic.com/faq.aspx#q3
"Can MLS head gaskets be used with motors setup with o-rings or receiver grooves around the cylinder bores?
No. MLS head gaskets require smooth, flat and true head and deck surfaces to seal. Most of the time with o-ring setups the wire and groove fall where our gasket’s combustion seal is located; therefore, the wire will hold the gasket and not allow proper compression while the receiver grooves allow combustion gases to escape."
They make the gaskets, so they should know if it is OK to use with O-ring grooves.
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What is the history on the head, was it O-ringed. Or a O-ringed head was ever used on this engine?
The groove on top of the cylinders look a bit too wide and too shallow for a O-ring, however it looks like a matching groove for a O-ringed head (tongue and groove setup).
If the block is not O-ringed but has a groove. It's best to O-ring the head to match the groove. When a O-ring is used, it's best to use a WF gasket. The HG failing might have saved the bottom end.
Before installing the head, turn the engine a few times, make sure all the pistons are traveling the same distance. At least eliminate any possibility of a bent rod before assembling the engine.
Some sort of overboost protection would have helped the engine. When upgrading the turbo, you need to address the tuning side as well. Let me know if you have any questions.
The groove on top of the cylinders look a bit too wide and too shallow for a O-ring, however it looks like a matching groove for a O-ringed head (tongue and groove setup).
If the block is not O-ringed but has a groove. It's best to O-ring the head to match the groove. When a O-ring is used, it's best to use a WF gasket. The HG failing might have saved the bottom end.
Before installing the head, turn the engine a few times, make sure all the pistons are traveling the same distance. At least eliminate any possibility of a bent rod before assembling the engine.
Some sort of overboost protection would have helped the engine. When upgrading the turbo, you need to address the tuning side as well. Let me know if you have any questions.
#30
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If you can, post some pictures of the head and the turbo that is currently on the car. That will help us help you.
Why not just rebuild the current turbo you have? If it makes the power you're interested in, I would stick with it. This is going be more money then you're expecting, I can tell you that much.
And I would stray away from the GT35 idea, it's probably a bit more then you're willing to take on right now. If you're interested in why, you can do a quick search on it.
A good place to look for gaskets and seals is www.paragon-products.com. I wouldn't change the headstuds, they're more then fine to reuse. Depending on what the situation is with your o-ringed head/block, you're probably going to want a widefire headgasket. It has a thicker compression ring that works well with an o-ringed head or block.
Also, before you get crazy with upgrading the turbo and what not, you should look into a good boost controller, cat-less exhaust, wastegate, injectors, etc. and most importantly a good tune. The tune will make or break your car.
Good luck.
Why not just rebuild the current turbo you have? If it makes the power you're interested in, I would stick with it. This is going be more money then you're expecting, I can tell you that much.
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A good place to look for gaskets and seals is www.paragon-products.com. I wouldn't change the headstuds, they're more then fine to reuse. Depending on what the situation is with your o-ringed head/block, you're probably going to want a widefire headgasket. It has a thicker compression ring that works well with an o-ringed head or block.
Also, before you get crazy with upgrading the turbo and what not, you should look into a good boost controller, cat-less exhaust, wastegate, injectors, etc. and most importantly a good tune. The tune will make or break your car.
Good luck.