schip43

Anyone using these batteries. I need to do some battery cable work,maybe move the thing to the trunk.
Car got trapped in the snow for a month and it looks like the clutch slave cylinder went out WTF!? And the battery died (of course) when I pulled the battery out the sides seemed slightly bowed so I don't want to use it.
I saw the PC 680 and at 15 lbs I am tempted but are these motorcycle batteries?

Also thinking about an Optima Battery from a Honda S 2000, smaller foot print then a Spec battery.

jerome951

I've been using the 680 for 2 years now. Great for racing in that is saves weight but for a daily driver it's probably not worth the hassle (especially if you use the alarm). On real cold days it struggles to crank over the engine.

Techno Duck

I have been using one for about 4 years now. I first had it in my n/a for a little over a year, sold the car and put the battery in my 951. I have had no problems at all, and i left the battery in year round. It always started the car even in the dead of winter with 15w50 oil after sitting a few days. It does crank a little slow, but that is probably related to my heavy oil and the north east winters. During the summer its just like a normal battery.

You just have to be smart about not sitting in the car with the radio and headlights on for hours on end.

Here is a not so great picture of how i mounted it. I originally had it mounted right side up but the way i did it was pretty ghetto (plumbers strap). I took some fiber board and cut it so it fit into the stock battery mounting points. Then with some large washers, 2x pieces of threaded rod, wing nuts and a piece of flat bar it sits flat on its side now.



I read your post in the Iceshark thread and yea, its a pain to change the cables. But it is well worth the time. I finally finished installing Icesharks cables about a year ago (After having them in a box for a few years) and it cured many of my weird gauge readings. Plus my voltage gauge actually goes up to 14v now! The hardest cable to replace is the one between the alternator and the starter, everything else was fairly straight forward.

Contact Robby on here for cables if you dont want to be bothered making them yourself. They are basically the same thing as what Dan Wray (Iceshark), may he RIP, was making for our cars. They are top notch parts. Also consider doing the headlight harness and e-code lenses as well. This will actually make your headlights useful at night .

josephsc

I used to have the same ghetto setup using straps found at Home Depot. This little thing used to fire up a 3.0l motor with no problem (but it doesn't get cold here...)...

schip43

Ok cool guys thanks for the input. My cables are jacked and the battery is uh unsafe. I 'am also thinking of maybe using a Honda S2000 Optima battery (same foot print as the PC 680) any input?

I already did the headlight relay/Hella Headlights and 100/130 bulbs works great the low beams are fine for 80 mph on the freeway and properly aimed so I don't blind folks.

So I just do a search for Robby. I'll give it a try.

None of this crap was on my list of things I wanted to.

But I order a new Piggy Back anyway! Damm the torpedoes full speed ahead!

schip43

Found it. All I can say is Holly Crap are you freaking kidding me! A hot and a ground and a couple wires to the starter was all I was expecting to see! I knew their were a bunch of crazy wires running around but oh my god!

Sorry, but I mostly worked on Toyotas and they don't have any of this kind of battery cable craziness! Oh well more parts!

https://rennlist.com/forums/968-foru...ry-cables.html

samluke

I have one, and use one and hate it. If I could find the equivalent weight saving elsewhere I would switch to an Optima or equivalent. My car fires up instantly, but there is not enough reserve in my opinion. My first one failed/died in short order. If I don't forget to switch the kill switch off it drains over time. Deep discharge kills them. There is nothing worse at a race weekend than having to fool with charging or jumping the car.

I fabricated a bracket so that I can use the factory battery mount as you can see. In winter I switch to a conventional.

From my experience they are a pain in the ***, not worth the aggrevation. There is a bigger version, I forget the size or Optima, shich are much better choices in my opinion.

I only keep this one because I have it. I keep a battery charger on it as much as possible. I should have learned from the first battery. Once this one dies, (which I suspect will be this year), I will not replace it.

Anyone want a lightly used, nearly new one? If I sell this, I'll buy a proper battery.

theedge

Head to NAPA and ask for a Deka EXT18L battery. The Odeyssey batteries are rebadged Dekas with a higher price.

There are also larger sizes, like a Deka 21.

The EXT18L cranked my 2.7 big bore over in 20F and below, with no cold start tuning (meaning, LOTS of cranking).

ritzblitz

+1 for Deka.

schip43

Hmmm well that was not a ringing endorsement! It does get cold here, Carson City NV...not that I drive the car in the winter. I have had good luck with Optima, the one for the Honda S 2000 has a small foot print so I thing I'm ,leaning toward Optima. But the poles are on the wrong side so I would have to reconfig the battery cables

schip43

Hmm looked at the pictures and oh yeah I can lay it on it's side!

JohnCh

I've had a PC680 in my Westfield for over 5 years. Works great in that application, but not sure I would put one in my 951 unless it was a dedicated track car.

-John

Nader Fotouhi

I would not put one in a street car, but I have had one in my racecar for 2-3 yrs and no problems, even if it sits for 3-4 weeks in between races.

Antonio

Have an Oddssey PC 680 in dedicated track car for about 3 years. Zero problems. Great product.

schip43

Hmmm back and forth, well it's mostly a summer car so I might be able to get away with the PC 680 or NAPA equivalent. If the NAPA version is under a hundred bucks I'm getting it.