barkerd427

I'm putting in a bigger turbo, Tial WG, A/C Delete, and MBC. I have some questions that I couldn't find the answers to using search and other sites.

1. How do I get the vacuum lines to the MBC? Which hole do I go through?

2. What extra things do you need to do for the A/C delete? There is a bracket that attaches in the back near the turbo that won't mount correctly anymore with the much thinner bracket. How did you adjust for these?

3. When you upgrade the turbo what do you do to the coolant line bracket that is on the right of the turbo as the driver sits? It bolted into the stock turbo, but now that isn't possible. I'm thinking about just cutting it off, but wasn't sure if it needed any alternate support or guard against chaffing.

I'm sure I'll have more questions when I start to install everything. Everything is out, but I wanna run all the vacuum lines before I start installing everything. Thanks for any help.

Darwantae951

1) I ran my MBC lines thru a grommet that entered above the glove box. You can see it in the battery compartment. Then I just ran them to the MBC which I mounted in my center console.

2) The parts you need are the A/C delete bracket and shorter belt. A lot of people use washers to create a shim for that bracket.

3) Most people who still run wet setups extend the cooland line at the banjo fitting so that it clears the compressor housing. Or you can heat it up and bend it so that it clears.

spoolin51

^go to sleep!!

Darwantae951

It was 12PM when I posted that!

xsboost90

MBC- i ran one line up behind the battery where there is a plug up under the windshield. The other comes from the wastegate and through a hole i drilled in the floor and siliconed up, where your left foot would be on the pass. side.

A/C delete- I just deleted that braket although you could use spacers to make it fit if you wanted. You also need the belt

Coolant line for turbo- ive done this two ways. Rocks Vitesse turbo came w/ some brass fittings attached for the coolant inlet, and i used a thread in nipple and a pre-bent 90 rubber hose off of that to clear the top of the turbo, then cut the banjo side off the Y metal OE pipe and attached it as normal from there. MY car has a k27/8 which i used the stock Y metal pipe, and did some careful bending to the banjo, flattened the bottom of the pipe over the compressor slightly, and then put an extra copper ring or two in between the banjo and the turbo which has worked great now for two years.

2bridges

When you upgrade turbo - that is also the time to consider if you want to run it wet or dry.

By going dry you eliminate lots of hose connection points, a bunch of hoses, the crossover bar, the electric water pump, turbo Tstat, etc.
This eliminates a number of possible leaks and goes a long way to clean up a bunch of ugliness in the engine compartment.

Couple different schools of thought on the matter, but here is why I went dry.
After replacing all hoses I experienced two problems. Hose start leaking at the radiator side crossover connection pipe at a DE. Just removed hose and checked out and reinstalled again, tightened clamps - not a big deal but a PITA and I missed one session. Then at a open track day I had the hose that goes from the WP to the crossover tear/split. Ended my day. Seems the engine movement was pulling on that hose and it finally split it open. Hard pipe seems to have been shifted over to the drivers side just a bit seems and made that short hose just tight enough it did not have slack for engine movement.

Coincidentally I happen to know a guy with an as new dry conversion setup for ale if you are interested

carlege

is turbo life reduced when going dry?

2bridges

Would defer that to your turbo manufacturer. Outside of the porsche world - most aftermarket turbo setups are dry.

So long as oil temps are in check and you let the car idle 5 minutes after tracking/running hard no issue as I see it.

I have played with numerous turbo cars (Dodge,Buick,Nissan,Porsche) all dry - never any issue here.

barkerd427

Thanks guys. I already have the turbo so I am staying with the wet setup. I was getting ready to put the wastegate back in and it doesn't fit. The mounting pads seem to be setup opposite (in reference to the body) compared to the stock component. I may be stupid, but it doesn't seem like I could just swap the pads. The inlet right now hits the piston outside, but if I switch them then the pressurized air would be hitting the inside of the piston and holding the valve closed. It is a Dual Port Tial and I know others use them and the PO of the wastegate sold it to me with all the stuff that was on his 951. I just don't wanna screw anything up.

I ended up drilling through the firewall to the battery compartment and installing my own grommets and then running the lines through the stock grommet that you guys mentioned to get them in the cabin. I'll have some more questions later, but I need a camera first. I broke a couple things and aren't sure what they are or if they matter.

How do you usually hook up the control vacuum line to the hard pipe between the turbo and intercooler? (for the MBC)

Thanks again guys.

Chris White

If you are adding a hole above the glove box as Darwin mentioned – be careful! There is a wiring harness attached to the passenger side of the firewall right near where you might try to drill….you won’t see it until the copper strands start coming out of the hole….

Darwantae951

Chris,

On my car the hole was there from the factory with a rubber grommet. Nothing ran thru it and from what I remember, there wasn't any wiring near it.

Chris White

You never know what the previous owner did!
If you are talking about the area behind the battery – no factory holes there. You have to be very careful about water leaks in that area, water from the windshield comes right down there and if the drain by the battery gets clogged you will get water draining right down on your DME (or TecGT in Darwin’s case!).

Cover that hole/grommet with a healthy does of silicone sealant.

spyder348

found the best way. two metal brake lines 6 inches long. cut tiny slit in big harness grommet. slide two brake lines through and connect hose to each end that way no drilling of holes and by any means your not stuffing hose through a little hole which could crimp it. two pipes because with MBC run dual port WG set up. i think line size is 3/16 brake line which is the norm so you might have some laying around and the inner diameter is the same size as vac. hose that we use so dont think it is to small. run wet and dry turbo if possible, cooler is better.

spyder348

worry about the vac. lines last. once you delete all the crap there is minimal vac. line routing if you do it the right way. get rid of your fuel vapor system. go on ebay find underground autosports. They make a nice polished beefy ac delete kit with belt bolts washers and all for 105 shipped. great product. im having difficulty with the coolant pipe routing as well compressor is too large cant help you there yet. go to boost sciences for the dual port WG diagram to hookup your vac. lines. you have an older motor might want to install an oil catch can while your at it.

Chris White

Now thats the best new idea I have heard in a while....I think I will use that in future projects!