Ski

yes it could. Post the part numbers for what you think are the DME/KLR plug. As far as the diagnostic port, you only need the idle wires and the 12V source for MAF if you want, others are useless. The rectangular one that hooks into the instrument cluster was another that they said they couldn't source, but who knows. a

Eagle Day and Kayjayco have all the other connectors and pins

ramius665

Well, after running some preliminary numbers, it looks like a new harness will cost about $338.53. Unfortunately, the most expensive part is sourcing new electrical connectors. So, I'll probably be holding-off on building a new harness.

Chris White

$338.53 for parts....right?

I have made quite a few standalone harnesses – figure on 10+ hours of labor to do a nice job as well as some new tools to get it done (don’t buy cheap crimpers – they will **** you off!)

Check out Techflex for a nice assortment of harness sheathing.

Dare

Seems like there’s enough interest to post this, so I will. Let me start off with one caveat: Since I purchased all my new connectors from KayJay, and am reusing many of the existing connectors from my current harness, I can’t say for certain these part numbers are correct. The Tyco web site provides a lot of information about their products, including detailed mechanical drawings. However until you see them in person it’s hard to know for sure you’re looking at the right thing.

The 2-, 3-, 5- and 6-position connectors with retaining clips are part of Tyco/AMP’s Junior Timer series. The 2-position connector that mates with the fuel injectors is 826008-5. Using the site’s ‘find related products’ feature one can search for the 3-, 5- and 6-position connectors that are used elsewhere in the harness.

Note that the connectors shipped by KayJay appear to be an updated version that uses a new (and less frustrating!) style of retention clip (827551-3). These connectors also employ individual wire seals with locking tabs, rather than a boot, to seal the wires to the connector. If anyone’s interested in seeing the differences I have pictures.

The DME connector appears to be a Tyco/AMP 827663-5. The boot that goes along with it is 925311-1.

I suspect the KLR connector is 827072-1, however the catalog has no drawings for this connector so it’s hard to tell. I don't have a part number for the boot.

The pins for the above connectors are Tyco/AMP 929929-1 (Loose Piece Part) and Tyco/AMP 927766-1 (Strip Part). There are 3 hand tool and die combinations that will crimp these pins:As others have said, I’ve had no luck finding the connector that joins the engine harness to the central wiring harness (this type of connector is also used for the diag port in the passenger footwell). However it’s very easy to de-solder the existing wires and the pins clean up nicely with a solder-sucker and some sand paper.

I plan on ditching the molded diag port connector for a more modern connector although I haven’t picked the exact one yet.

ramius665

Jay, it sounds like you're a step or two ahead of where I'd like to be. I've been trying to find someone that has experience assembling wiring looms to get some industry tips and tricks. I think the hardest part is purchasing all of the electrical connectors and sourcing the appropriately marked wires. And it's only hard because it seems that materials alone will be at least $300. A small price to pay compared to a NOS harness from Porsche, but still a pretty decent investment just to give it a try.

CurtP

For those of you who are building/rebuilding harnesses, how much and what size wire sleeving are you using? I have a harness that looks like I'll be rebuilding unless someone steps up to the plate and builds us new harnesses.

From what I can tell so far, most of the wires inside the loom in mine are in decent shape. It's some of the connector ends and boots that are trashed. I'll know more when I start tearing into it.

If anyone has an '86 harness that's in really good shape, I'm interested in it. I'd almost rather replace it with a decent used harness than try to rebuild the one I have. I've already rebuilt the main harness and I have a brand new engine bay harness ready to go in. I just haven't been able to source a new or good used engine harness

Ronin-951

I hope you guys are paying attention to the TYPE of wire your using. Hi temps are why the stock loom fails. Dont repeat one of the few cost cutting measures that Porsche ever used. Silicone, Cross Hatch Poly P, or Hi Temp PVC [190 C or more] insulated wire would be a wise investment for this worthy project. The more strands the better in vibrating conditions. Dont laugh - Locomotive wire is the best you can find.

User 52121

$350 or so isn't bad at all really, just for peace of mind. Assembling a harness won't be all that difficult - just tedious. When I was a kid (~11-12 years old) I used to go into work with my dad on the weekends, and I spent quite a few weekends helping him assemble prototype engine harnesses. Once you get the lengths right, it's just a matter of keeping the colors straight.

I'd think that if you pull the old harness out of the car first and use that as a reference for lengths, etc. it wouldn't be too horrible.

Dare

I haven't gotten to this stage yet, but my plan is to use Insultherm braided fiberglass sleeving in the engine compartment. I bought 10' lengths of sleeving in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sizes, which I think should be more than enough for the engine compartment. I also bought a couple different sizes of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing which will be use to finish the ends and the branch points.

For under the dash I plan on using Techflex F6 split sleeving. I bought way more of this than is strictly needed (10' of the 1" size and 25' of the 1/2" size). But I figured I'd find a use for it elsewhere.

ramius665

I decided to give up building a new harness and just source all of the Lindsey Racing harnesses. Only the diagnostic port and the instrument cluster brick are re-used. Haven't started the car yet, but I don't doubt they'll work fine.

Adonay

A hame they diddent produce them with out the klr\dme plugs , Its easy to solder or put new wires into those plugs.

CurtP

Are you running the wires through the boot or poking a hole in the boot like they show on their DIY page? I thought about buying their kits, but so far I'm not finding deteriorated wires, just connectors, boots and the plastic loom cover.

ramius665

Curt, after messing with three (3!!!) wiring harnesses that had bad connectors and plastic sheathing, I decided to go the LR route. I ran them through the boot because it's basically impossible to run them through the factory routing. I even cut one of the factory rubber boots apart to see if it's feasible. I've seen other folks do it, but I didn't have the patience or ability. I'm sure other people out there do. But dollar for dollar, going the LR route was the best option. For about $300 it replaced about 90% of the harness outside of the firewall, which is the area that was just destroyed on all of the harnesses I had.

I know that a few different vendors have toyed with the idea of building harnesses, but they would all cost about the same as a factory one and are basically unproven.

If someone out there is producing a factory-spec harness, I would buy two immediately. I see the LR harness as a stop-gap until I have the time and/or money to build/source my own. LR has stopped using the high quality and high temp sheathing and uses some cheapo looking plastic wrap for their harnesses now. I was more than a little disappointed in that for my money. Some day I'll get around to fixing my existing harness.

theedge

And what would your price expectation be for the factory spec harnesses?

Bri Bro

I cut open the original harness that goes through the boot and pulled out all the old wires and then installed the LR harness and placed a fiberglass sleeve over the bundle. I just couldn't drive myself to take the fast path and pop a hole in the boot.