Intake Temp gauges?
#2
There is one built into the AMF...
And air temp sensor is pretty small with very little thermal mass (unlike a water temp sensor) so it can react quickly to changes in temp.
Also, it's calibrated for a different temp range (incoming air usually doesn't get to 250 degrees...)
And air temp sensor is pretty small with very little thermal mass (unlike a water temp sensor) so it can react quickly to changes in temp.
Also, it's calibrated for a different temp range (incoming air usually doesn't get to 250 degrees...)
#4
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From: NAS PAX River, by way of Orlando
#5
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There is one built into the AMF...
And air temp sensor is pretty small with very little thermal mass (unlike a water temp sensor) so it can react quickly to changes in temp.
Also, it's calibrated for a different temp range (incoming air usually doesn't get to 250 degrees...)
And air temp sensor is pretty small with very little thermal mass (unlike a water temp sensor) so it can react quickly to changes in temp.
Also, it's calibrated for a different temp range (incoming air usually doesn't get to 250 degrees...)
I have my old IAT but wasn't sure how that would match/wire up to an after market gauge.
#6
I have used k-type thermocouples before and after the intercooler. I just welded the fine wire together for low thermal mass (the finer the wire the faster they react). The only problem is the digital thermometer i used would only read data on on channel at a time, and then had a refresh rate of aboy 0.5 sec.
What is needed a a dual display with data recording at about 20hz.
-Dana
What is needed a a dual display with data recording at about 20hz.
-Dana
#7
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#8
Here's the thread I was talking about: https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ggestions.html
http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showth...ercooler+temps
#9
TEch edge have good widband controller loggers with 4 thermocouple amp / loggers for around 300$
jaycar have a pretty good meter that will take 2 thermocouples but only display one at a time or the difference of the 2 . for about $80 or they sell cheap multi meters that take one input for about $25.
i have neater ones that have a stick on the window probe you strip the plastic of the stick on the window part to get a better more responsive read out .
jaycar have a pretty good meter that will take 2 thermocouples but only display one at a time or the difference of the 2 . for about $80 or they sell cheap multi meters that take one input for about $25.
i have neater ones that have a stick on the window probe you strip the plastic of the stick on the window part to get a better more responsive read out .
#10
yeh pretty sure this has a K type inside a a stick on thing has an ok little display and adequate 3m cable
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...p&form=KEYWORD
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...p&form=KEYWORD
lots of options i don'ty realy know of a auto style one but i know these are great value
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResu...p&form=KEYWORD
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...p&form=KEYWORD
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...p&form=KEYWORD
lots of options i don'ty realy know of a auto style one but i know these are great value
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResu...p&form=KEYWORD
#11
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From: NAS PAX River, by way of Orlando
I posted the follow up here:
http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showth...ercooler+temps
http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showth...ercooler+temps
You proved some points I was looking for.
A. It is crucial to try to get as close to ambient air in as possible which I have tried to do by locating my MAF inlet directly to the fender hole as I do not run a big K&N but a filter wrap, allowing the front of the MAF to be right up to the hole.
B. The stock IC is pretty darn good! And the heat soak is a major issue as you showed so if I stop for a while in any performance or track setting just opening the hood is a MAJOR help while the car is parked.
C. Have you had any chance to datalog during the colder months? As for me with just feeling the pipes in 40 degrees and below, my pre IC pipe is warm, post IC pipe is COLD and intake is cold and only gets warm right at the end of the runners at the head. And that is running 20psi. Obvioulsy a bigger turbo allows much more boost with a lot less heat.
D. Like Blown 944 mentioned on there I was first considering just an IF laser temp to take readings of rhe IC pipes, intake, etc. after runs. Do you think that would be fairly accurate assuming the readings are taken immediately after a run? i.e. run, pull over, pop the hood and take readings.
#12
In a word, no. The air temp changes by several hundred degrees in a matter of seconds after boosting. Also, I'm not sure the surface temps of the pipes are a good indicator of the air temps inside.
#13
years ago i run some tests to see if the bonnet vents had any affect sadly no before logs .i also have a Lindsey style modified end tank on a standard cooler .
but with very little road speed (70-mph max) to just ripping through 1st and 2nd and getinng into 3rd just for a moment i found inlet temps to be about 10deg C above ambient wich is apparently pretty good ..
there is research that proves you throw allot of heat back into the offboost inlet air more than you put into the air on the outside ..
but with very little road speed (70-mph max) to just ripping through 1st and 2nd and getinng into 3rd just for a moment i found inlet temps to be about 10deg C above ambient wich is apparently pretty good ..
there is research that proves you throw allot of heat back into the offboost inlet air more than you put into the air on the outside ..
#15
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