Mark-87-951

I finally have my car together after changing the front main seal. It still leaks but that is another story.

I have a new battery (optima deep cell)
New distributor
New rotor
New spark plugs

The car cranks but wont start. The tachometer runs up to 2000 or 3000 which I thought was odd as I've never seen it that lively before.

I put in a spark plug tester and no spark

I tried bypassing the DME relay. I can hear the fuel pump turn on when I do this and see that I have enough fuel pressure.

When I crank the engine I have spark but the tachometer only bounces very littel off the bottom. Car still does not start.

These test results seem rather odd. Not sure what to check or do next.

The car started before I began the work on the front seal. It was problematic but it would start.

lee101315

Well, the good news is this should be easy to fix because you caused the problem. I don't mean it in a condescending way, but you need to back track a bit, or you'll go crazy chasing your own tail.

Some possiblities that come to mind:

1. You may have not installed the rotor. If it is installed, is the bolt present? Crank the engine with the dist cap off and make sure it turns.

2. Check the dist cap and make sure the pin that makes contact with the rotor didn't fall out.

3. Changing the front seal means you had to align the timing marks. Did you use the upper OT mark? If you did, did you push some wires around to see the mark? It's possible you either disconnected the reference sensor plug slightly (push them together tightly!!), or damaged one of the reference sensors.

4. The front crank seal is commonly misdiagnosed when it's actually the oil pump shaft seal that's leaking.

Hope this helps

Mark-87-951

"you caused the problem." That wouldn't surprise me considering the extra work I put myself through when fixing the oil leak. *breaks down crying* haha. On a positive note I've added a new skill set to my arsenal when I had to install thread inserts into 3 bolt holes.

1. I installed the rotor, no doubt about that but I'll check it.

2. I'll check that, but it is getting spark when the DME relay is bypassed.

3. I used the lower OT mark and flywheel lock. However, I did yank the battery cables around while installing the Optima so I'll check the reference sensor plugs.

4. The drive gear had the groove that our cars eventually get. I replaced it and all the shaft seals. I'm thinking I didnt seat the one that is pressed into the oil pump well enough (crooked) or the small o-ring on the shaft got screwed up when I was torqueing it all down.

The inconsistent results had me thinking I did mess up the ref. sensor plugs slightly when I gave up on it tonight. Hopefully it is something relatively simple.

Thanks, and fingers crossed.

Mark-87-951

Still not starting

1. Rotor installed and fixed solidly to the shaft
2. The pin is still in the distrbutor cap
3. Reference sensor plugs were rock solid.

Still same results:

With DME relay
1. no spark
2. no fuel
3. tach runs up to 3 - 4,000 rpm while cranking (shouldn't 1 & 2 mean no reading??)

With DME relay bypass
1. spark
2. fuel pressure
3. tach only moves slightly
4. Car tries to start with starting fluid

I havent been able to verify if the injectors are firing. I tried putting a paper towel in one spark plug hole but it just flys out immediately. Not sure how far I should put in the hole or if I should block it so it stays there.

I think the starter, while being a bit less than 2 years old is getting killed by all this. I had starting problems before so it was getting abuse for awhile. I did get spark once with the DME relay in but only once. That was after I pulled another ignition relay and fiddled with it. I think that may be just a coincidence as it seems to only be for the door/seat belt alarm.

I know about other tests but I'm quite confused by the high tach reading with the DME relay despite no spark or fuel.

I would like to verify if the injectors are actually firing but I don't know a safe way to do it. I have the lindsey fuel rail. I was thinking of pulling that and putting the rail and injectors over paper towels. I think I've done that before. Is there a better way?

I also checked the DME plug to see if any connectors had backed out. No problems observed there.

Mark-87-951

I tested the fuel injector harness. It's a Lindsey Racing harness and still in good shape.

DME Relay in
All injector plugs disconnected
ignition on
no voltage at either prong for all four plugs

With the DME relay bypassed and ignition on I get 12.2 volts at one prong and 10.2 volts at the other for all four plugs

I'm going to order a noid light kit but what do the results tell us so far?

Mark-87-951

Ok, noid light flashes at all sockets. Not as bright at the 3 and 4th cylinder but defintely blinking. I clearly need a new DME relay as I only get fuel pressure, spark and signal to the injectors with the DME relay bypass.

I guess I need to order new injectors. I'm thinking this has been the main issue with my starting problems as I've replaced just about anything else that can be a problem. These are the original injectors and I've only had them serviced once back in Feb. 2006 but the car has been sitting for a bit over 6 months now.

Mark-87-951

Anyone have a recommendation on fuel injector size? I have Huntley Racing Stage II chips, adj. FPR and typically run 15-16 lbs boost on stock turbo. I also have a Speed Force Racing Cat Back exaust and I will eventually install a Tial 38mm wastegate I have sitting around if any of that matters.

I'm thinking of Siemens 55lbs

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...I11402&eq=&Tp=

Mark-87-951

I got the Siemens 55lbs. They come with new o-rings but the end is different than the stock injectors. Do I need the plastic cap that our stock injectors use?