Mine is seeping oil and now I see evidence of coolant residue on the side of the block ..... I thought I went with the best , now I will go back to OEM ?? Any thought's Thanks , yes my block was true , the head was milled, and I followed factory Torque Specs and mayby 5% more for saftey ....

 

Sorry to hear that. Mine has been trouble free for about 2 yrs. Did you change head studs or use the copper spray? Also, did you use the torque angle method?

 

Search.. there was a topic posted by lindsey. The gaskets for for one side of a 928.. not exact causing leaks. He now has sets that are specifically for the 951 head.

 

does that mean cometic sold me 928 gasket ? or they had problems in the beggining and now have it perfected?? I called them today and they had no answer for me , a little dissappointed, and yes I did everything to factory specs and some and my some has nothing due to its failure, this a product defect !!

 

My cometic was an early o-ring type gasket and it failed at maybe 15-16 psig.

I have OEM gasket now and run 15-16 psig with no problems.

True head, true block and high-strength head bolts properly torqued for both gaskets.

 

I have cometic for about 4 years now and 18-20psi and no issues. I know I was worried when installing it as I heard over and over that it is great IF it is installed perfectly. Not saying you didn't but I know that if any issue with install, it will leak.

I used ARP studs and the copper spray along with milling, etc.

 

No issues on mine but I use Evans NPG coolant, so my coolant pressure is only a few PSI. New gasket from Chris White (sized for 104MM big bore) and Blue Hylomar sealant.

 

That is interesting. Can you elaborate some on that?

What is the min amount of coolant system pressure you can run?

 

NPG is a waterless, non toxic (still tastes nasty, but doesnt kill pets) coolant. Since it has no water in it, when its at operating temp there is typically only 2-4PSI in the cooling system vs 15 psi. It doesnt boil until a much higher temp, so hot spots in the engine are minimized, cooling is improved, and chances of knock are reduced.

You dont really need a minimum pressure per se that I know of.

Its downsides are that its quite expensive ($40 a gallon), and it CANT be mixed with water, so if you have a leak far from home you can have issues. Its also VERY slick stuff, so some tracks have banned it due to worry over spills causing accidents. Even on my garage floor its very slippery.

 

How does it compare in surface tension to water-wetter?

 

Get the part number off it and call Lindsey.. They will have your answers

 

That is Key!!! I checked out their site and looks like $40 is not that expensive compared to possible HG for hot spot/knock.

Is there any danger if there happens to be some water in the system when this is added?

 

So I cranked my real 39k mile car yesterday and the waterpump which was replace 8 years ago, seal just startred pissing, dammm , I just replaced belts and seals , You know I just added water wetter to the system , I wonder did I disturb something, doubtful , but it is leakin,,,,,ok where do I get waterpump and do I buy new, hebuilt , reman , or what.... I am starting to get leary of aftermarket rebuilders since I will be pulling the head off since cometic head gasket is leaking......................

 

Mine seeped a small amount of coolant while sittling when i first installed it. It stopped after about 2k miles and the gasket has proven itself to 26psi so far with arp studs.

 

I havent used water wetter in a long time, but its much more slick than coolant + water wetter I think.