V2Rocket

maybe softer lines with a little more slack in them will work nicely too.

maybe a good solution for mounting a cooler would be a few of those rubber nubs that the idle control valve mounts on. the one that has rubber in the middle and threads on both ends

KLR

Have you tried using a Setrab cooler instead of Mocal? You can get one in the same size and they are noticeably beefier. I've been running a Setrab in my KISS setup for three years now without incident. The Setrab is made in Sweden and the Mocal is made in England. You can definitely tell when you compare them side by side.

samluke

KLR, I wondering about switching. Mocal is a well known brand as used in motorsport for many years. I am also English so I have a soft spot for the UK stuff, not that I would ever recomend an English car!

Where did you get the setrab unit from?

I am intrigued that some have been repaired, I wonder how. I would be surprised if they can be welded with the different material thicknesses, aluminum and the contamination from paint and oil. Brazing would work best, but I don't think you can braze or solder aluminum?

Norm Swanberg

The picture of the Kiss Oil Cooler Kit at Lindsey Racing says Setrab.
Norm

alxdgr8

Here's a pic of the repair...it's almost like a plumber's putty or such.
I'm pretty positive mine is a Mocal too...not going back out to the garage, too cold at 12*

V2Rocket

eww.

Grandpa#3

You can take the aluminum cooler and have them TIG Welded as long as they can be cleaned up good. Extra mount brackets can be welded on at the same time. If you have a Vocational School close bye you could ask them, so a student could get some hands on practice. Right now you have nothing to lose and just might get a good one back.

Cheers,
Larry

KLR

I got the Setrab from BAT. They sell both Mocal and Setrab, and you can get both in the appropriate size for the KISS kit. My KISS kit originally came with a Mocal.

samluke

I have ordered a Setrab unit from BAT. I may as well try something different. Guess what, they are out of stock, so its on back order. Luckily I have a month or so.

I am going to try and get the old one welded. I just need to find someone who knows how to weld aluminum. I have used a local fabricator, he is marginal at best with mild steel, I have no confidence he could weld these.

V2Rocket

go to a local parts yard and look for late model jag XJ6....those have very nice oil coolers with large fittings

Chris White

Those coolers are very, very easy to damage when tightening the lines. The location makes it even harder to keep from torqueing the fitting when tightening the oil lines.

Hmmm….I wish there was another way….

KLR

That's actually how I ended up with a Setrab -- they were out of Mocals when went to order a replacement back in 2007.

LUCKY DAVE

Start with a new cooler:
Reinforce the theaded spuds with a large fillet of metal filled epoxy on the outside of the cooler before installing, sand off the paint to get a good bond (good old JB weld or MarineTex will work fine).
The idea is to spread out the mechanical loads imparted by the lines over a larger surface area of the cooler.

samluke

Lucky Dave,

That's a great idea, I think I'll investigate that when my new one arrives. The only problem is not interfering with the ability to get a wrench on.

When I install I do trial install and mark where the hoses need to end up. With the cooler and lines off the car, I tighten the hoses using two wrenches, and then walk the assembly into the car. Its tricky and a pain in the ***, but you can't afford to put any stress on the cooler itself. I am amazed just how fragile these coolers are.