Dyno chart info thread
#17
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Thanks for trying I'm afraid my memory is a lost cause on this. I remember your MAF caused a WORLD of trouble before we finally discovered you cant put a MAF sensor in direct line of sight of the turbo (because the turbo creates a vortex of turbulance that confuses the sensor!) then once we put a 90 degree bend between them it worked a TREAT Jon said your mapping was almost spot on even for a 3.2! Maybe it was all your chips in the end? My car DEFINATELY had the factory boost cut originally. Kicked in after 2secs or more of constant overboost and cut the fuel. Not subtle and triggered it many times when experimenting in ignorance with boost encancer on my otherwise standard car.
One thing I know for certain is that in the end the whole wiring loom had to be replaced because chips wouldn't fit on the '85 board. It was a different number of pins being an early model.
p.s. I don't see any responses people.. where are the big guns hiding? Are there any quick cars out there still running?
One thing I know for certain is that in the end the whole wiring loom had to be replaced because chips wouldn't fit on the '85 board. It was a different number of pins being an early model.
p.s. I don't see any responses people.. where are the big guns hiding? Are there any quick cars out there still running?
The MAF kit comes with a J-pipe, it appears that you did not install it in the standard location. Turbulence creates havoc with all MAF sensors, a 90deg bend after the turbo does not help.
The same chip/board works on both early (24-pin) and late (28-pin) DMEs, so it cannot be the cause why you changed the wiring loom.
#19
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There is another thread "Rennlist Top HP" or something where most dynocharts are posted.
#20
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The idea for the thread was, I'm looking at getting into a 944T again and thinking with a fresh and open mind. I'm wondering how best to go about it.. Buying my old car back certainly 'might' be an option but I'd like to have a think first and see what else has been done/what results other ideas produced. Even if I do buy back the 3.2 I want to know how best to start unlocking its potential.
I looked at that other thread but after 20pages I saw about 3 charts of interest and a LOT of arguments. I was rather hoping I might get a better collection here
#21
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OT - Not that any of this matters now.
The MAF kit comes with a J-pipe, it appears that you did not install it in the standard location. Turbulence creates havoc with all MAF sensors, a 90deg bend after the turbo does not help.
The same chip/board works on both early (24-pin) and late (28-pin) DMEs, so it cannot be the cause why you changed the wiring loom.
The MAF kit comes with a J-pipe, it appears that you did not install it in the standard location. Turbulence creates havoc with all MAF sensors, a 90deg bend after the turbo does not help.
The same chip/board works on both early (24-pin) and late (28-pin) DMEs, so it cannot be the cause why you changed the wiring loom.
My assumption from that was there'd be a low pressure area in the centre of the pipe where the maf takes its readings - so readings would be too low?
I'm only going on other peoples knowledge though, what do you think it was if not the bend?
#22
Very interesting. Both parts. No the maf wasn't installed in standard location it was only about 4" from the turbo to start with (while Jon was setting up) and wouldn't fuel right at all! Later moved back the the normal (far side of the header tank) it worked perfectly. A chap from Bosch said that the turbo should never have clear line of sight to the MAF i.e. you need a 90* or the MAF will under-read as the air creates a vortex.
My assumption from that was there'd be a low pressure area in the centre of the pipe where the maf takes its readings - so readings would be too low?
I'm only going on other peoples knowledge though, what do you think it was if not the bend?
My assumption from that was there'd be a low pressure area in the centre of the pipe where the maf takes its readings - so readings would be too low?
I'm only going on other peoples knowledge though, what do you think it was if not the bend?
#23
The idea for the thread was, I'm looking at getting into a 944T again and thinking with a fresh and open mind. I'm wondering how best to go about it.. Buying my old car back certainly 'might' be an option but I'd like to have a think first and see what else has been done/what results other ideas produced. Even if I do buy back the 3.2 I want to know how best to start unlocking its potential.
If I were you I would buy the car back and upgrade the bits (suspension, brakes) that I remember made you sell it.
#24
Nordschleife Master
IMHO honking around at 12 psi below 6000 rpm isn't enough to prove the design. Note that I am absolutely not saying anything bad about the engines or implying that it isn't working, but I would like to see at least a few track driven 500 bhp 3.2l engines to prove their reliability.
#25
I'm not related to 9XX and I don't know how reliable their engines will prove in the long run, but I don't know either about even one track-driven 3.2 500bhp engine that has already proven its reliability.
#26
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Yes it is my greatest regret that after all that work I got into difficulties and never got the chance to drive the car in anger or video it.
Also no it was always run pre turbo, I meant the header tank. The MAF ended up in the usual possition for a cone filter once on the road.
I wasn't meaning to debate the quality of the 9xx engines. They are superbly put together with the finest quality parts you can buy. I'm just considering the other options while I can, is it really necessary to go to 3.2 or can I get enough from the right mods on a 2.5? All sorts of ideas have crossed my mind.
I was also very interested in a chap in the uk who (purely as an experiment) built a 3.0 944T using nothing but standard parts from the 968/944 range. He just re-dished the 968 pistons to lower compression and put it all together in standard 944 T form with original exhaust, wastegate (shimmed), intake, Air flow meter, K26 turbo and even standard boost of 0.8bar.
It was really interesting to see the 'pure' gain from capacity without making any other changes. The car which has only been tested on a road dyno to date is producing approximately 300hp and 350ft/lb torque.. Makes me wonder which mods really make what difference. With enough dyno sheets I reckon you could start to build up a picture but there's no where near enough yet to work with.
Also no it was always run pre turbo, I meant the header tank. The MAF ended up in the usual possition for a cone filter once on the road.
I wasn't meaning to debate the quality of the 9xx engines. They are superbly put together with the finest quality parts you can buy. I'm just considering the other options while I can, is it really necessary to go to 3.2 or can I get enough from the right mods on a 2.5? All sorts of ideas have crossed my mind.
I was also very interested in a chap in the uk who (purely as an experiment) built a 3.0 944T using nothing but standard parts from the 968/944 range. He just re-dished the 968 pistons to lower compression and put it all together in standard 944 T form with original exhaust, wastegate (shimmed), intake, Air flow meter, K26 turbo and even standard boost of 0.8bar.
It was really interesting to see the 'pure' gain from capacity without making any other changes. The car which has only been tested on a road dyno to date is producing approximately 300hp and 350ft/lb torque.. Makes me wonder which mods really make what difference. With enough dyno sheets I reckon you could start to build up a picture but there's no where near enough yet to work with.
#27
Drifting
Here are a few from a 3.0 using a a GTK 650 turbo. This turbo has been sold and I'm installing a Precision 6262 turbo for better spool-up, lower flatter tq numbers, and hopeful similar top end numbers. This motor is a 3.0. The 18psi and 20psi dyno's are using pump 91 fuel. The other dyno's were a mixture of 112 race gas and 91 fuel.
#28
Yes it is my greatest regret that after all that work I got into difficulties and never got the chance to drive the car in anger or video it.
I wasn't meaning to debate the quality of the 9xx engines. They are superbly put together with the finest quality parts you can buy. I'm just considering the other options while I can, is it really necessary to go to 3.2 or can I get enough from the right mods on a 2.5? All sorts of ideas have crossed my mind.
I wasn't meaning to debate the quality of the 9xx engines. They are superbly put together with the finest quality parts you can buy. I'm just considering the other options while I can, is it really necessary to go to 3.2 or can I get enough from the right mods on a 2.5? All sorts of ideas have crossed my mind.
I run a 3.0 since August and now that it's fully run-in and that the electronic boost controller is set right I would rather switch to a pedal car than having to switch back to a 2.5
#29
He also wants to sell it so give him a call
#30
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If you had the chance to drive the 3.2 in anger it is more than likely that you would have found a solution to avoid selling it.
I run a 3.0 since August and now that it's fully run-in and that the electronic boost controller is set right I would rather switch to a pedal car than having to switch back to a 2.5
I run a 3.0 since August and now that it's fully run-in and that the electronic boost controller is set right I would rather switch to a pedal car than having to switch back to a 2.5
..I did get a couple of low boost 15-18psi drives in before it had to go and it was BRUTAL in 4th gear ..truly, lung crushingly, neck snappingly BRUTAL including 1 very close call with the law testing the 4th and 5th gear pull on the motorway and a very fast drive down the 'mad mile' near where I live that cooked the standard brakes in under 1 mile of twisting B-road (you just don't realise the work your putting it under with the speeds your scrubbing off! A standard car would never get to those numbers between bends).
Unfortunately much sillyness elsewhere in my financial life left me with NOO choice in the matter! It was the bank takes the car or I sell it and bay the bank.