I'm not interested in more horsepower (see sig) my guess is I'm 270whp .. It's fast enough for me, in fact i'm sure stock would be fine too. I love the car to death and i have 84k miles .. i read about rod bearing damage, head warp, coolant issues and fuel problems. I realize I need to change the damper and the fuel line to dramper line to prevent a fire. I have the Rennbay basic fuel line kit but it's not installed. What else do i need to do? my goal is just to keep it going. I only drive about 900 miles a year so far, and i'd like to keep it like that. I like the occasional boost on the on ramps and 4th or 5th gear hard rolls to see how well she runs.

From what i'm told is the same thing my father told me when was 12. "Just make sure there is enough oil and you'll be fine" That is true, but what else? I know for sure already you need to drive the car because i notice the electronics get "bored" and tend to not work if you don't use it everyday i.e. the Flasher stalk

I've been tempted to take it to the track several times but i always change my mind because i don't want it abused. On the other hand, i feel she get's more abused sitting in traffic then on the track.

I've read engine rebuild around 120k miles is a good time. Which reminds me i need new engine mounts for sure...

last 1000 miles i had:

Gates Racing Timing belt
new rollers
waterpump updated
waterpump thermostat
all coolant/heater hoses
new alternator belt
heater control valve
all front engine new seals and turbo seal
Drive shaft Seals
new radiator
rebuilt control arms/joints
new rear tires
new drivers side axle
new reference sensors
lindsay racing harness
rebuilt injector harness
new fuel filter
Venturi Delete/Idle Stabilzer hoses
Power steering rack resealed
new Vacuum lines
new Intake gaskets
Intake honed
Fusebox opened and cleaned underneath
New Battery
New Tranny linkage
Transmission oil changed
Oil changed 2X
Coolant flushed/changed 3 times

probably more just can't think of any right now..


Cheers.

 

Unless it drinks a fair bit of oil and smokes under WOT I see no work worth being done for now.

 

With those facts you've given, just use a decent oil and you will be fine. Along with regular upkeep of course.

 

If you keep oil in the engine and don't stray from factory tuning, these engines and turbos are pretty solid, even when driven hard on the track.

 

You need to drive it more.

These cars hate sitting around, they will leak more and suffer from more corrosion due to condensation. As long as you keep taking care of it, it will last well past 150k – and at your present rate that will be another 66 years!!

 

The weakness is usually at the end of a project when budget gets tight and I/you/we skimp on the last few parts. WE chose to use factory rods on the first track engine, lasted 4 years - pretty good reliability, would still be going had we used Pauter, Wossner, etc. Reliability, ask the Gomes engine guy whose been running a 450+ hp engine for 3-4 years, not to mention JME, White too.

The bottom end is very strong IMHO, mains hardly ever go bad, you can solve the rod bearing item easily enough for #2, open deck - well yes but some time spent balancing helps that a lot. Having spent minimal $$ on a engine that put out 351/348 and passing a high dollar Z06 at a track - more to being fast than hp alone. Suspension, brakes, and a driver - who can also maintain longevity by not over revving, missing a shift, warming the car up and cooling it down properly.

I keep hearing the reliability item about these cars. It takes just a bit more time and few more dollars to do it right the first time when it comes to the internals of these engines. A good machine shop, tolerances, and balancing can go a loooonnnnngggg way to reliable hp. Just my .02

 

So what is the secret to eleminating the coveted #2 rod bearing failure???

 

Cheap solutions -
Don’t overfill the oil
Don’t under fill the oil
Use good oil (synthetic)
Don’t get the oil too hot
Change oil regularly (no sludge)
Don’t run over 6500rpm for extended periods

Not so cheap solutions –
Dry Sump system
Bearing coatings (shot term protections)
Extra oil cooling
External oil pump and drive system

 

make sure the oil has a zddp additive or add it to the oil you use

 

Sorry for the Hyjack!!! Me bad

I have not had the #2 problem, but I want to avoid it.

I belive mobile1 15 w 50 (Red label) is supposed to be very high in zddp.

I use the above moble1 and am planning on a oil pan baffel. That combined with not revving over 6K on the track and hope for the best!!!

I was just trying tio avoid the preventative rod bearing replaciment routine every 15k of track use.

 

one of the worst things you can do is let it sit for more than 3 months

 

Mine sat for almost 3 years
She runs strong now though... For now, also.

 

did you start to leak? i'm sure your tires were flat. What happen after 3 years? I make sure to drive it after 4 weeks or I go crazy, and believe the car will die. Only 15-30 miles though

 

ahhh motor mounts. the fun never ends.

 

This year there were times I used the car daily and others where it sat for a week or so. It definetly worked better with daily use. I put about 8,000 kms (5000 miles) on it in about six months this year.

I will be putting it up for the winter next week and it will be in storage for 5 months. I hate it. Oh well, I'm already looking forward to next spring!