I know I have to block off the hose that goes from the turbo inlet hose to the cycling valve with a dual port wastegate, but I do not recall which one it is.

I'd prefer not to have to take off the intake manifold just for this to be honest.

Zoomed in a bit: (the colored lines just show which way the lines go since there is a vacuum line in the way)


Zoomed out:


So am I blocking off 1 or 2?

Also, I have no idea why the pics look retarded, probably when I pasted into paint I didn't overlap them properly. Story of my life.

 

? Are you installing a after market boost controller? if so you don't have to block off anything there, just pull the small hose that runs to the J Boot, and block off the port on the J Boot.

Boost controller then goes between the turbo to intercooler pipe port (banjo bolt) and the wastegate...

I installed a catch can, ran one hose all the way back to the AOS, and deleted the entire metal octopus that you show in your picture... WAY cleans up the under intake area... You can just see the WG lines I have run from the IC pipe to the right side, then the line along the fire wall and down in the left rear to the WG... I have a black **** MBC in my glove box...

 

Yeah, I just blocked off the j boot portion, I just wasn't sure which one to block off as there was two.
I have a mbc and dual port wastegate hooked up as of now. the car is running strong now but doesn't want to go over 11 psi for some reason. I started off with the mbc at it's lowest setting and worked my way up to 11 psi but it will go no higher.

 

Is the second port of your WG to vacuum or atmosphere?

What type of WG?

The install instructions for the MBC are backwards for connection to anything but a LR dual port...

Sounds to me like the pressure side of you WG is to atmosphere... but I could be wrong...

 

yeah i'm using the lr dual port. I have the bango bolt that used to go to the cycling valve running to a t which then goes to the wastegate and the mbc, then another line on the other side of the mbc straight to the wastegate. i blocked off the port in the nonpressurized air tract that used to lead to the cycling valve also.

 

Double check the MBC and WG are correctly connected... My MBC did the same thing recently (wouldn't boost over 11 PSI... I adjusted it full throw both ways and still no change...2 days later it went back to operating normally... no issues found yet...)

http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/MBC-DUALPORT.html

Make sure your lower port on the WG has the MBC **** pointed to it, and the top port is connected to your T fitting....


I need to change out my WG as it is causing flutter above 10 PSI... but that is on the shelf till car goes down for winter nap...

 

thanks for info. i used that same diagram earlier today along with the vacuum charts on their website.
I made sure they all went to their respective places.
Also, I have an exhaust leak in the Y pipe. While I don't think that would cause this, might as well mention it.
Whatever the case, it's runnning good enough to embarrass a 335i earlier today.

 

I find the biggest problem I have encountered when embarrassing newer cars is getting them to believe how old my car is!

Sounds to me like either a tube is pinched or routed badly, or your MBC is in need of a refresh, but if it is still running well enjoy it...

 

You know, I think you're right about the pinched line. I didn't mention the embarrassing jerry rigging I did with my j bolt to wastegate line...
Let's just say I have a rubber hose inside the original line coming from the j bolt with a hose clamp around it

I went to autozone to get a double sided barb fitting and forgot to put it on
I'll do that and see if it fixes the problem or not

 

If you use a dual port WG and plumb in a black **** controller and have the car chipped you don't need to use the CV at all and can, if you want, remove all that junk under the intake. Those two pipes coming out - even when not connected to a rubber hose going anywhere make it a PITA to get to get to a few things in that area.

 

isn't one of those metal pipes going to the crankcase though?

I took the cv out of the equation by disconnecting it from the banjo bolt, the unpressurized intake tract, and the line that used to go to the wastegate. So it should be just metal sitting in the engine bay until I get around to taking it out completely. The car is still acting funny though and runs really strong at about 11 psi but if I try to up the boost further it seems to want to go back to 9-10 psi and not feel nearly as strong.

Background info: I have a stage 1 sfr turbo, adj fuel pressure regulator set somewhere between 42 psi-47 psi (needle jumps while it's running from the vibrations), a 3" catless exhaust, stock afm box, stock injectors, the black screw type LR MBC, LR dual port wastegate, and LRMAX chips.

Any chance I'm just overtaxing the stock fuel system or something? I don't see how I could be when I'm running around stock psi though, but I'm running out of ideas at this point. I don't see what else limits boost at this point besides the WG and MBC.

 

Oh yeah, i hate to double post but I wanted to say that when I bought the chips I probably specified maybe a 3" exhaust, stock turbo, stock injectors, stock afm, etc. So should I put the fuel pressure back down to around stock also as I'm guessing the chip is not counting on the extra fuel pressure?

 

No, if you look at the piece under the intake those metal pipes all go back to the CV. A couple bolts and that whole thing is right out of there.

Since you're chipped you don't need the CV anyway. Some people take it out - some people don't...it's up to you...but you don't need it nor should you be using it if you have a dual port wastegate with a manual boost controller.

My setup is pretty much the same as JohnKoa's - I even have the same catch can. You can pretty clearly see that he's removed his CV as well. With a stock system, the CV is kind your 'electronic boost controller'. When you add another type of boost control - ie; dual port wastegate - then you don't use the CV.

From what I've read thus far, you don't need it and shouldn't have anything hooked up to it - on either side.

 

Yeah, but the crankcase vent from the AOS DOES run through the metal pipes, and can be deleted by running a hose direct from the AOS to the J boot, where we have our catch cans installed...

 

ok then, so i should as of now have one metal pipe, the one going to the crankcase still hooked up (which it is)
Once I delete it then I can take that whole assembly out, which will be nice.