vanosman

Just port the head $800, k26-8 hybrid $800

You will have full RPM power, the k26-6 falls off boost up top while the 8 pulls hard to redline and comes on as fast and early as a rebuilt k26-6 with ball bearing fast spool upgrade.

shim & rebuild WG, chip it for k26-8 if you can find that. Not sure what year you have, my 86 951 Germ spec was k26-6 rebuilt for $300, year later sold for the $800 k26-8.

Well why not go bigger than cheater ? New Garret cost some bucks and those need laptop stand alone, bigger inj, etc = less MPG and doesn't boost as early as 2.5" k26-8 hybrid

salvage k26-8 is worth $200, be sure to rebuild it with #52 trim or similar cold side, leave the hot 8 side alone.

Guys make enough torque to snap their tranny with that setup, stock cleaned 32lb inj, stock flapper air meter, stock air box filter, stock pipes, rebuilt shimed WG with cheap washers,

but BIG FLOW aftermarket stuff has appeal to the F&F gear heads rather invest in big flow parts while the radiator and water pump are ready to die and melt the eng down.

Paulyy

Bit confused with this post

vanosman

K27-8 has way too much lag, k27-6 worked better but the tq was way down at peak for my 951 buddy.
He sold both 951 for Z06.

He says now he should have done a k26-8 hybrid with #52 wheel like me.

Hey i like 30MPG, especially during the H2 Hummer days of Bush Wars Oil DieNasty when petrol was only $6/gal, that killed 93oct here, been gone for 11yrs now, my chips call for 92oct min.

i spike the fuel tank with 111 leaded, i have the straight 3" fabspeed.
2.5L on 111oct just purrs at idle and even sounds more quite than with 91oct, corn ethanol gas kills hp and mpg in all cars.

nice that 951 will run on 87oct if needed, guys 928S4 will go into limp 4 banger mode, had to follow a few of them from gas station. RX7 TT also limped to shop.

My 951 just burned the bad gas, i never have limp mode unless i just peg 21psi overboost because my Tial WG needed to remove the smaller spring to work in 951.

I should have posted a thread to save guys from that problem that seems to happen to guys 10yrs after my issue. Replies from non Tial guys is to buy expensive A/F meters which is nice but won't fix a mechanical spring in the Tial.

It confused me that only 3rd would put the boost needle off the chart and overboost kicks in, know i know that my rebuilt k26-6 could NOT overboost because it's too small of hot side and trim is small , therefore if you have a new Wide Fire HG then turn your check valve under hood on the banjo bolt , turn psi LBE up ALL THE WAY UP MAX.

Tial with both springs inside will overide ALL KLR AND BOOST ***** AND SELENOIDS !!!!!

Tial states 15psi spring but take the smaller one out and its down from +21psi back to less than stock 14psi in 3rd gear. Install a MBC **** and focus on 3rd gear peak boost, get it just below overboost threshold about 17-19psi, don't worry about 4th the psi normally drops to around 15psi and that is good sign.

Sometimes you get 3rd tuned just right about 18psi, well your 2nd gear is going to be really snappy spool up a bit too hard, this is excuse that guys have for buying EBC that is gear specific and they can have a valet low boost mode.

Most guys just spend $30 on eBay **** and dial down the boost a click or two to make that 1st and 2nd more smooth. Lightened flywheel will rip thru 1st & 2nd too fast above 18psi, i really like the 3rd gear at 19psi and for a short time i just feather the 1st and 2nd gear to control the extra boost torque.

i installed burned cups chips that remove overboost and pulled the smaller spring from Tial WG.

vanosman

2nd small mechanical spring is the Tial issues guys are having,
they are getting WRONG advice to buy $800 A/F meters and stand alone ECU.

rest of the "confused" rant is how i know this and how to fix it w/o buying all that eng management stuff that won't fix a cheap Tial internal spring. If they have k26-6 then even a welded Tial shut closed feels great, but upgrade then you spike overboost very EZ, have to feather throttle in 3rd to keep it at 19psi and that is no fun to press the pedal 50%.

What is your MPG with the big flow 3" compare to 2.5" turbocharger ?
I get over 30mpg in top gear state to state, runs low 13's on 18" hollow twists.

Most 3" Big Flow guys make about 30-40 more hp than 2.5" with cup mods. That extra 30hp cost you a price. +60hp will cost ya a tranny one day, seen it enough that i won't go big flow dyno queen route. It's not just MPG issue for me.

vanosman

it won't boost or it will overboost if you flip it wrong way. Better is to shim (washer spacers) & rebuild stock WG, and mount **** under dash and lock it after you get 3rd setup. If you have stock k26-6 then just crank up the boost ***** & LBE because that hotside won't overboost, didn't hit OB with my rebuilt k26-6 and a high rate double spring Tial (practically like welded ricer) dropped k26-8 hybrid in then only 3rd will OB and limp until you restart and the DME will reset.

So if k26-6 wont overboost even with rebuilt ball bearing then just be happy with shimmed WG & forget the check valves because all those do is send the signal to that shimmed WG anyhow and the check valve LBE is just another cog in the boost loop to delay the boost dump and you get spikes vs the shimmed WG, spikes sometimes seems to kill momentuem of your roll, like when the Indy cars press the boost too early and k26 already falls off boost way too early before redline, just ask anyone that upgraded.

btw little LBE springs inside gets tired.

Get a $30 MBC ****, that what i did after 3rd check valve crapped out, funny how 19psi feels vs 15psi with old tired Lindsey boost enhancer.

Run 44psi AFPR w/ chips. If Stock chips just leave 36psi & stock fuel press reg.

vanosman

Not sure what other guys are trying to sell ya, others with similar problems end up buying what people tell them they need.

I got bad advice on forums on my overboost issue 10yrs ago, i bought MAF with chips and Apexi EBC and pillar gauges and all sorts of expensive stuff before i found my issue was a tiny Tial WG spring, a mechanical gremlin that Speedforceracing didn't mention that no matter a **** or LBE the damn spring would NOT vent the building boost on k26-8 hybrid, the k26-6 never had the steam to build that boost so i was confused also why just 3rd gear (because that is where the BEEF is)

flow match your injectors, get a Chilton book and pull them yourself . $80 job. Get your bucks back from better mpg.

k26 6 needs all the pressure you can get, muscle up and tighten those IC intake pipe clamps, a $50 boost gauge with VAC is good idea under radio or A-pillar. Change your fuel filter, it's a 928 mahle part.
Clean your K&N or get a new filter, change your plugs for giggles it only take you 10 minutes, don't pull the wires until they cool down so they don't rip like my old Magnacore wires. Bosch coil is a champ, it's fine, i upgraded to Nology coil and wires because i listen to forums and vendors. Beru frenchy wires are the way to go. NGK plugs are good .

Eng runs cooler with some high grade oil from race shop. header shields some swear it helps their hot air cone from melting behind radiator.

I went to college a few miles from Lindsey shop that made a polished $500 stock airbox flapper relocator like a MAF for the stock kit, but it cut into their MAF sales & their MAF polished IC pipes........so it was scrubbed from their website like it never existed.

That is one reason MAF are popular, because the vendors got together and the stock flapper relocator was scrubbed like Ross Perot in Prez debate.

A lot of people would rather have Ross Perot in hindsight, but the money men won't allow that sort of competition. Perot financed his own campaign out of pocket, GET RID OF THAT GUY, he bad for biz.

flapper relocator kit was the Ross Perot of 951 Cold Air Intakes.

Ask about it, forum just tell ya to cut and weld your own. Vendors stay silent until guys push $1500 MAF and $2500 Stand Alone ECU, then the vendor vultures put their nasty hooks in ya.

Remember how Perot went out ?
"Dirty Tricksters" that still run the show.





I'm trying to sell some common sense and value and reliability based on personal experience and watching others have their overboost issues.

968 GUY

Isn't it true that the boost enhancer prevents pressure from reaching the waste gate until the set pressure at the enhancer?
From what I understand, and I may need to go over LR's description and instructions again, is that w/out the enhancer, as soon as there is any boost generated, pressure is on the waste gate, which could start opening before set pressure, due to wear...etc.
I believe that if the instructions to set the enhancer are followed, it will start opening just before the waste gate design pressure.
Hopefully,my memory serves correctly.