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Traction control ???

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Old 07-07-2009, 03:52 AM
  #16  
gt37vgt
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dual stage boost control only alow full boost in 3rd and up gears and with les than a third turn of steering lock
but a 2 buttons on the sterring wheel may do the trick ...with a little practice .. so just hold the button as your coming off the apex.
the other thing that realy helps is boost as per TPS. so you will only get full boost at full throttle good ecus have this function but a couple of micro switchs and boost controller one could rig up a crude one on the throttle mecanisim ..
Old 07-07-2009, 05:21 AM
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333pg333
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Ok lots of food for thought and a few points I'd like to respond to:

I wasn't thinking of involving the brakes actuating in my traction control. More, it would use the ABS sensors to detect slippage and probably drop a cylinder or timing. Chris says this is inelegant. What are the other options? I don't want the brakes to come on without my involvement if that's what people were thinking I meant?

I don't see that limiting the boost is the way to go, well not in a preset fashion anyway. I mean why penalise yourself if you are not loosing traction based on what you think might happen? You want it only to engage when you're loosing traction.

Buckaroo, what progress have you made with your LINK G4 to accept T/C? This was, and maybe still is publicly, not an option for this product. I know that the firmware has been tested and written for this function but am curious as to what you know or have planned?

Adam, to me the Throttle Cam seems like a predictive treatment rather than a reactive one if that makes sense. All I am wanting is something that senses loss of traction and drops power to the wheels momentarily.

To the guys that are saying T/C is for pussies, well I thought I agreed with you previously, but I am not competing for 'Chest out Man points'. I'm competing against cars that have all this stuff and way more, plus a bucketload of power, grip, aero, structural rigidity etc. I hope to have a car track car that is a bit lighter to start with but nothing spectacular, and most likely in excess of 600hp on demand. Not that I will make use of that potential power for some time if ever but it will be considerably more than I'm used to currently. While our cars were pretty sophisticated 25 years ago, the rear trailing arm setup isn't cutting edge and I believe I will need the assistance of T/C without doubt.

Van, I currently have a Motorsport 80% LSD in my 951 tranny with S2 r&p. However this will be supplanted with a 996 GT2 tranny with factory LSD. I have this freshly Factory rebuilt and converted to run in a 'flipped' position to mate up with our cars running gear. The motor will have more torque than a GT2 so this tranny will be a good one and hopefully I can drive this car more on torque than rpms. Much easier on everything in general...including me.

Rich, I am no expert driver by any means but I think I go ok. More seat time is definitely needed, but I see this T/C as an advantage. I mean it's like saying people who run with any Aero are pussies for wanting downforce or something like that. lol.

Hmm, perhaps involving steering lock might be something to consider Adam, but with a lot more power maybe T/C will be needed in a straight line also?
Old 07-07-2009, 06:32 AM
  #18  
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in terms of penalising your self I'm propsing 20 insted of 24 psi of boost or an amount of boost that produces some wheel spin but wont allow heaps .

And think of it this way when you press the pedal 65% as you get past the apex are you at that point demanding every psi of boost ?? No but whats stopping you get it... ?? as soonas you boost guage reads full boost your pedal is almost redundant ...
a modern sport's bike is 700hp per ton and squirt the power on to quick and its hospital ...
progressive delivery of power is gonna get you a long way and its why a GT3 is basicly as fast onn a circut as the more powerful ferraris ..
Old 07-07-2009, 08:17 AM
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I need to understand more how these things operate in cars now. Sounds like these E-Throttles are the way to go. Wonder how hard it would be to fit one up??

Anders, have you had any/much experience with this sort of thing?
Old 07-07-2009, 08:29 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
I need to understand more how these things operate in cars now. Sounds like these E-Throttles are the way to go. Wonder how hard it would be to fit one up??
It is totaly dependent on your EMS.
Old 07-07-2009, 08:59 AM
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They have been spending some time designing an E-Throttle with a track WRX in the recent months so I think it would be possible but don't quote me. How does the actuation of the E-T work? I assume that you mean it doesn't do it by pulling power or spark from the motor Chris?

Just found this also as an aftermarket item. Looks pretty good for the money.
http://www.racelogic.co.uk/?show=Tra...action_Control
Old 07-07-2009, 09:15 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
They have been spending some time designing an E-Throttle with a track WRX in the recent months so I think it would be possible but don't quote me. How does the actuation of the E-T work? I assume that you mean it doesn't do it by pulling power or spark from the motor Chris?

Just found this also as an aftermarket item. Looks pretty good for the money.
http://www.racelogic.co.uk/?show=Tra...action_Control
Ewww….I can’t get by the first paragraph…” Acceleration out of junctions becomes rapid and repeatable, just bury the throttle and the system does the rest”
Sounds like this was written for nonskilled hacks….

OK, I am on the fence with some ‘driver aids’ like this. Yes, you can get better lap times with traction control. Much better in the rain! But it still takes some of the driver skill out of it. That beign said…let s look at ethrottles –

Common in many newer sports cars (actually many new cars in general) – these give the actual control of the throttle plate to the computer instead of direct input from the throttle pedal via a cable. The ECU can close the throttle in response to wheel slip. This is the best way to add traction control since it does not ‘misstune’ the engine like other methods (dropping a cylinder or retarding the spark). Some of the well programmed systems give a very seemless feel.
Old 07-07-2009, 09:40 AM
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It's a UK product and site and I think the ad is a few years old now.
I don't want it misunderstood that I'm giving up whatever skills I've gained through my time on the road and track, but I also want just a little help when these guys are planting their foot on the throttle when I'm feathering or even backing off. I just don't stand a chance. I'm also concerned just how hard getting a lot more hp & tq might be in the future. I assume a lighter car will be more responsive but possibly more prone to wheelspin...or does it just take off and go due to the lack of weight?
Old 07-07-2009, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
It's a UK product and site and I think the ad is a few years old now.
I don't want it misunderstood that I'm giving up whatever skills I've gained through my time on the road and track, but I also want just a little help when these guys are planting their foot on the throttle when I'm feathering or even backing off. I just don't stand a chance.
Try blocking them.
Old 07-07-2009, 09:49 AM
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Less weight, more power = bigger problem.
Playing around with the rear suspension set up will help a lot.
Are you having a problem with mid corner (apex), exiting corner or straight ahead traction?
Old 07-07-2009, 09:51 AM
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I've spent many hours in the past studying the Racelogic traction control and it's a great product with great user reviews.

Personally I would think a a soft rpm limiter / cylinder dropping is the best solution.
E-throttle should be effective to stop the spin, but in order to make it work for maximum acceleration some slip is desired. Somewhere around 15-20% slip should be optimum in the dry and that will be very difficult to regulate fast enough using e-throttle on a turbo car since boost is lagging and not affected directly to throttle angle.

I don't think anyone's interested in a traction control that just stops the spin, that's easy, you just drive at 2% throttle. The interesting part is to get a traction control that enables maximum acceleration. And that is especially hard with a turbo car. A V8 with linear torque curve on the other hand should be much easier to setup with e-throttle or just plain simpler to regulate with your right foot..
Old 07-07-2009, 10:05 AM
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on spa-francorchamps last time I kinda gave up, and just went sideways everywhere, it also worked rather well! one our instructors, a wellknown proffesional driver was rather impressed saying that he didnt think it was possible to go that fast on 18" cup tires on rain/wet

to be honest I'd much rather have ABS, than traction.
Old 07-07-2009, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by anders44
on spa-francorchamps last time I kinda gave up, and just went sideways everywhere, it also worked rather well! one our instructors, a wellknown proffesional driver was rather impressed saying that he didnt think it was possible to go that fast on 18" cup tires on rain/wet

to be honest I'd much rather have ABS, than traction.
Yeah, but 'real' ABS...not the passenger car type.
Old 07-07-2009, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris White
Yeah, but 'real' ABS...not the passenger car type.
bosch motorsport is to expensive, but someting of a 996 GT3 would be very nice.
Old 07-07-2009, 04:17 PM
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Default re: I was told

"Buckaroo, what progress have you made with your LINK G4 to accept T/C? This was, and maybe still is publicly, not an option for this product. I know that the firmware has been tested and written for this function but am curious as to what you know or have planned?"


I was told T/C will be, IS available for the Link g4?
The plan is to implement T/C. I have a strong motivation to do so having spun out on a major highway ended up facing on coming traffic and this all happened with just a chipped 951.

T/C for me is a top priority and was one of the deciding factors in purchasing the Link G4...

Also thanks for posting the Racelogic site now I know there are wheel sensors that I may be able to use adapt.

I just called the Racelogic dealer in Nebraska was unable to connect with anyone who knew anything about the product even tho the product is displayed prominently on there web site. They did list a price of 2k not installed. I am trying to see if I can purchase the sensors separately.

From what I can tell from the pictures of the sensors they are just magnets?

-BB

Last edited by Buckaroo Banzi; 07-07-2009 at 04:41 PM.


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