EDIT with new pictures. WTH is this bolt? Total coolant loss, need some tips.
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
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DOH!!!!!
Okay. So I got the first leak fixed and found the second one I could not figure out before.
There is a 17mm nut on a stud coming out of the block behind the power steering pump. The leak appears to come totally from this nut. Dry above and behind it. I tried tightening it and it would not budge.
What the hell is it? How much am I going to hate this?
Okay. So I got the first leak fixed and found the second one I could not figure out before.
There is a 17mm nut on a stud coming out of the block behind the power steering pump. The leak appears to come totally from this nut. Dry above and behind it. I tried tightening it and it would not budge.
What the hell is it? How much am I going to hate this?
![](http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3415/3596037993_b01565a916_b.jpg)
#17
Nordschleife Master
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Thanks.
Can you guys give me some shopping tips?
Here is what I have found so far:
-Rennbay (new water pump $295), would have to order all hoses individually
-Pelican Parts , (rebuilt WP $123.85 +$100 core), individual hoses.
-944online, Only place with a hose kit $159.95 for all the cooling hoses, WP rebuilt $119.95 + $125 core.
-Ebay. Rebuilt WP $145 no core.
Anywhere else to look? Looks like 944O has what I need at the best price.
Thoughts?
Can you guys give me some shopping tips?
Here is what I have found so far:
-Rennbay (new water pump $295), would have to order all hoses individually
-Pelican Parts , (rebuilt WP $123.85 +$100 core), individual hoses.
-944online, Only place with a hose kit $159.95 for all the cooling hoses, WP rebuilt $119.95 + $125 core.
-Ebay. Rebuilt WP $145 no core.
Anywhere else to look? Looks like 944O has what I need at the best price.
Thoughts?
http://www.paragon-products.com/pors...stem_s/127.htm
price depndant on year, turbo vs N/A and they DO not have 100% of the turbo hoses (no-one does, there is 1 hose that is heading twords NLA status I believe)
Paragon has the least expensive hose kits, 944online (Ian's) has the clamp kits, and both Paragon and Pelican have the correct coolant (it is safer and beter, but more expensive, Pelican is a little cheaper I believe based on replacing all of it in April on my 951)
If you do go with the Porsche coolant, make sure you thoroghly flush all the old coolant out of your car before puting in your Coolant... 1 galon + 1 gallon of DISTILLED water is just over teh amount needed for a N/A, teh Turbo cars take a little more than 1 gallon of water if they are fully dry when being filled...
#18
Nordschleife Master
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DOH!!!!!
Okay. So I got the first leak fixed and found the second one I could not figure out before.
There is a 17mm nut on a stud coming out of the block behind the power steering pump. The leak appears to come totally from this nut. Dry above and behind it. I tried tightening it and it would not budge.
What the hell is it? How much am I going to hate this?
![](http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3415/3596037993_b01565a916_b.jpg)
Okay. So I got the first leak fixed and found the second one I could not figure out before.
There is a 17mm nut on a stud coming out of the block behind the power steering pump. The leak appears to come totally from this nut. Dry above and behind it. I tried tightening it and it would not budge.
What the hell is it? How much am I going to hate this?
![](http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3415/3596037993_b01565a916_b.jpg)
#21
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There is no way coolant can be coming out of that nut(OPRV) or the pressure sender above it and not be mixing with the oil. Your leak is coming from somewhere else. Possibly there is a crack in the housing or it is leaking from the gasket then running down to that spot. There are many places for leaks to hide on these cars.
I would suggest a full oil cooler housing reseal and update to the newer OPRV or at leak change the O-rings in yours while it's out(the reseal kits DO NOT come with OPRV o-rings so buy the correct one seperate). I have resealed 5 of these in the past 6 months so it's a fairly common problem spot. It's not very difficult to do. Just very messy and takes some time. Be sure to change the oil after.
I would suggest a full oil cooler housing reseal and update to the newer OPRV or at leak change the O-rings in yours while it's out(the reseal kits DO NOT come with OPRV o-rings so buy the correct one seperate). I have resealed 5 of these in the past 6 months so it's a fairly common problem spot. It's not very difficult to do. Just very messy and takes some time. Be sure to change the oil after.
#22
Nordschleife Master
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He put:
Antifreeze in Oil
Oil in PS reservoir
ATF in radiator
windshield washer fluid in transmission....
She stood there, listening to his van die, laughing at him.... I was asking him if he even looked at the caps before he decided to just pour whatever into whatever opening... his reply?
"I had all the caps off and forgot which was which"
#23
Rennlist Member
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Water leaks can be sneaky -- they will travel in little nooks and crannies until you could swear the leak is coming out of a sway bar. Given the location, I'd check the hose going to the front of the pipe that runs along the top of the headers.
#24
Nordschleife Master
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Also check the underside of the large hose on the WP, a small hole there will allow the water to run out, it runs along the bottom of the WP, and CAN look like it is on the oil cooler when it is actualy crossover from the WP depending on any angles where you park...
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
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I've checked all those hoses in detail before posting the pictures. Been all over the car with a flashlight and dental mirror checking for the leak while using a pressure tester.
It dumps 2 gallons out in 15min!! All seems to stream from under this bolt!!?? I fear a crack in some thing I can't get the little mirror back in to see.
It dumps 2 gallons out in 15min!! All seems to stream from under this bolt!!?? I fear a crack in some thing I can't get the little mirror back in to see.
#26
Rennlist Member
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Might be worth changing the oil to make sure there is not water in it. Also, have you checked to make sure the oil thermostat housing is bolted tight to the block and that the gasket has not blown out for some reason. You can see the parts in this link: http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951..._seal_repl.htm