JohnKoaWood

And went and did this... spare cluster, little re-wiring.. MINOR modification of the rear panel and voila... Damn AFM didn't want to work...time for a WB O2



Thoughts?

porshhhh951

Cool!

bigdeano

Looks great! get all the background colors on the gauges to match and it'll look even better!

dillon410021

wow.

95ONE

Nicely done.

JohnKoaWood

I;m going to do the rest of the gauges, and swap in the cars original tach (one in now was always with this cluster and sticks) and teh battery gauge out of the cars original cluster..

This will be done when I finally settle on a WB O2 setup and install it..

Thanks, this is a work in progress..I'm also working on back lighting for all the faces and adding the caution and warning lights to the cluster at the same time.. need to order some things to finish it up, but I like the initial look...

Should I keep the factory boost gauge, or get rid of it as I will be deleting the factory WG control and installing a TIaL 38mm and MBC in a bit...

bigdeano

I'd keep the factory boost gauge just in case you ever wanted to return the car to stock. One less thing to source at that point.

alxdgr8

did you take pics of the back panel?

JohnKoaWood

Well, I was thinking of deleting it on one set of gauges, and keeping it on the other... this was done to the spare cluster, the only thing out of the cluster that was in the car that is used here is the speedo for the odometer, and once I goto separate boost controller and aftermarket WG I thought the factory boos control was removed from the car for that... or can all the factory parts remain in place, piggy backed by the aftermarket parts?

bearone

looks like voltage is real high.

87951
95sl320 dd

black944 turbo

John, 1st off that is absolutely incredible!!!!!!!!!!

2nd, with a tial and boost control you still keep the KLR and can keep the cycling valve (just bypass it). The KLR is what sends your boost signal to the kluster so you should fine. I would say keep it as it looks like it belongs, however you do have an a/m gauge so obviously not necessary.

JohnKoaWood

I tried to adjust the gauge, and that is as far as it would adjust down wihtout re-positioning the needle, I need to swap the battery gauge out for the cars original one to get the indication correct...

JohnKoaWood

NO, but I can when I take it all back apart to do the speedo and swap out the tach as the one shown sticks periodically... only modifications I had to make was lifting the circuit off the left hand side, cutting 2 holes for the electrical connections on the AFM and a hole for the boost gauge... I am expecting some digital gauges that should eliminate the need for the cutting of the back panel...

I also soldered in wires for the additional OEM gauges on the right, but those could be easily removed...

JohnKoaWood

Thank you all for the compliments, I try to think outside the box when doing this type of thing to my car, I like origional but also like keeping it looking somewhat stock...

I'm still on the fence with the white faces, and think in the next go around I might make a set of black faces just for kicks.. and a full set of white faces to complete the look... I will also be adding all the caution and warning lights to the faces I have already made, they aren't there now as I didn't want to wait for parts to see how they looked...

INURGRL951

Yes this is very nice.

Have a few concerns for you the temp is on the high side of things and you oil pressure is very loooow for even being driving for a few hours you my need a new radiator. Once you get you temp down you should have greater oil pressure also.