Help me diagnose this clanking noise! (Audio Included)
#1
Three Wheelin'
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The sound is almost certainly coming from the passenger side of the car, at least it seems while I'm driving. I recorded some audio of the sound while rolling at probably 5 mph down a secluded road, both from inside the car (what I typically am hearing) with the windows down, and then again with the windows down and the microphone just outside the passenger window. Hopefully someone here will recognize the sound and can point me in the right direction.
Some background: I thought it was a CV joint making this noise so I bought a new GKN axle with the ready to go CV joints on it, but I am still hearing this noise. I can hear it with the brakes on or off, and it is most noticeable when I am coasting vs. accelerating. The clanking noise rate gets faster as the wheels spin faster. Anything over 20mph and it is very difficult to hear due to wind noise, exhaust noise and of course the clank is going much faster. The audio was recording while coasting at a walking speed.
Two audio files, both under 1MB each. The audio is short because the sound is repetitive and I wanted to keep the sizes small.
Audio 1: Inside the car / windows down: Audio_1.aif
Audio 2: Outside the car / windows open: Audio 2.aif
Some background: I thought it was a CV joint making this noise so I bought a new GKN axle with the ready to go CV joints on it, but I am still hearing this noise. I can hear it with the brakes on or off, and it is most noticeable when I am coasting vs. accelerating. The clanking noise rate gets faster as the wheels spin faster. Anything over 20mph and it is very difficult to hear due to wind noise, exhaust noise and of course the clank is going much faster. The audio was recording while coasting at a walking speed.
Two audio files, both under 1MB each. The audio is short because the sound is repetitive and I wanted to keep the sizes small.
Audio 1: Inside the car / windows down: Audio_1.aif
Audio 2: Outside the car / windows open: Audio 2.aif
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http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-11.htm
#9
and if you really had to ask that question take it to a shop for replacment
#9
and if you really had to ask that question take it to a shop for replacment
#6
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http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-11.htm
#9
and if you really had to ask that question take it to a shop for replacment
#9
and if you really had to ask that question take it to a shop for replacment
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#7
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No, the rear wheel bearings are recessed inside the rear hub and trailing arm.
The early ones in the steel arms are VW inherited and tend to give problems from the spacers letting moisture in and rusting them out. The late ones in the cast aluminum arms are modular and usually don't go bad but I guess it depends on how many miles are on your car and the type of use it's had.
The hardest part about replacing rear wheel bearings is loosening the axle nut which takes an enormous amount of torque.
The early ones in the steel arms are VW inherited and tend to give problems from the spacers letting moisture in and rusting them out. The late ones in the cast aluminum arms are modular and usually don't go bad but I guess it depends on how many miles are on your car and the type of use it's had.
The hardest part about replacing rear wheel bearings is loosening the axle nut which takes an enormous amount of torque.
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#8
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Ah, ok... looking at the diagram on Clarks makes sense now. So... am I risking further damage by driving on it? Zim's just quoted my $400 for 1 side or $700 for both (just labor). I asked if this means they do the job with the trailing arms off the car, but he said it showed no alignment required so he didn't think so. Zim's I believe is a $115 / hour shop. I'm going to look around, and look on Clarks some more to see if I think this is something I can do...
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YIKES!
#9
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No, you should have no problems putting it off for a little longer aside from the noise driving you nuts. I wouldn't take too long though, because you might risk warping the hubs. Good luck with it!