Can i use this wastegate with Authority MAF / Chip ? I thought i've read somewhere you need to use stock exhaust / wastegate to prevent headgasket failure or a lean condition?

If it's fine, and i think it is -- how long does it take to install this wastegate?

 

I've used that exact setup in the past, tial 38mm with autothority maf and chips. Based on my wideband read-out I was running way rich up top and a little wierd in between. My experience with that maf in general was that it was very hard to get the exact afr I was looking for. Tuning with mafterburner helped things.

Installation of the WG is quite straight-foward, took me under 2 hours including re-plumbing the WG to work in dual port mode with my electronic boost controller. I didn't take any special care in removing my old WG and broke 3 studs. Also you will not be able to support the tial with the factory WG bracket.

-Nick

 

The APE MAF was designed to work under predefined conditions. The boost was controlled by the banjo bolt! If you install a Tial 38mm WG, run it in single mode and keep using the Banjo bolt as supplied by APE (meaning the Cycling Valve + KLR control boost) you should be fine.
If you mount the Tial as a dual port and control it externally (no Cycling Valve), you will risk having incorrect AFR also the ignition timing will be off as well.

Whatever you do, even if you keep the factory WG, you should check your AFR. The chips you have tend to run rich in the mid-range (for a reason), and they tend to run lean up top (for whatever reason if there is one).

Have fun.

 

Great info guys, thanks. I realize the APE MAF is not ideal, but it works. I would prefer a Vitesse MAF, but that will have wait. I've read the best upgrade or first upgrade should be the WG. It's nice to know I can upgrade this part with my current setup. I assume I will be able to build boost quicker with this upgrade, which is imporant because I don't want to rev it up too high in case it leans out. Why doesn't the Tial WG come with a bracket?

 

Ok John as long as you are on here I have a general question for you. I too have a Tial 38mm but I'm doing a complete rebuild. (short block back from machine shop next week). I will rebuild sort of stock to break it in but intend to end up with your MAF after a couple K miles . What I'd like to know is do I need "all the other stuff" you sell or will just your MAF kit work fine for a street car? Glad to send you what the build will be if you need more info for that sort of advice.

 

First congratulations on the new engine. It's always nice to start with a fresh engine!

The answer to your question is simple, start with a MAF & Injectors. Then you can upgrade later if you wanted to. As you know, no two engines are 100% alike, there are many variables to deal with; in general I can get you 95-98% on target. I recommend the PiggyBack to fine tune it to match your car 100%.

Many people on this board just run the MAF + Injectors, for street and track. I personally prefer a 100% match to the engine, others are happy with 95-98% target.

Keep in mind, we now offer the V-FLEX software which incorporates a MAP sensor so the DME can alter ignition based on actual boost. It also allows you to set overboost protection and rev limit. To get the V-FLEX you must have the PiggyBack.

The components we offer work as a system made out of well integrated subsystems, you get what you want. Setting long term requirements early on, saves you money in the long run.

Feel free to drop me a note with your specs, I will be glad to discuss your options in more details.

 

Be careful, altering the boost curve without the proper tuning software can yield terrible results. As I mentioned earlier, you have to stay within the parameters that your chip was designed for.
I strongly suggest you get a Wideband sensor to stay on top of the AFRs.

 

In the APE instructions it clearly says do not change the exhaust without getting your chip tuned, but there is no mention of the wastegate. The chip i have is Stage II designed for the Powerhaus K27#6 Hybrid turbo. The Banjo Bolt is the jetted type I believe, because it's for the K27. With this setup, I have no plans to increase boost at all. At this stage, all i want is realibility and performance for street mostly. Do you mean I will be build higher boost at lower gears with the Tial WG as opposed to the stock WG? I'm just looking for a quicker spool and an upgrade that I can still utilize when i use a newer MAF at a later date.

 

I guess the better question is, do you need WB sensor even when you have no plans to alter boost? (at this stage) The sensor is not cheap ($500 CDN) "LM1 wide band air/fuel ratio meter,basic kit"

 

If you plan on making changes and/or if you have not checked your AFR before now, then yes you should get a Wideband sensor.