I will have to recind my membership...
#47
Racer
Thread Starter
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Definately oil related, not rod bolt failure. too much discoloration of rod big ends.
I built the motor myself, I've pulled wrenches for a livin for 25 years
I built the motor myself, I've pulled wrenches for a livin for 25 years
#48
Nordschleife Master
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ouch! really sad to see that. I know that feeling too well...
"too bad" you had done the preventive oiling mods such as tray, baffle and modified pickup.
I would inspect the pickup tube very closely... a small crack there could reduce enough oiling.
Keep us updated!
"too bad" you had done the preventive oiling mods such as tray, baffle and modified pickup.
I would inspect the pickup tube very closely... a small crack there could reduce enough oiling.
Keep us updated!
#49
Rennlist Junkie Forever
#50
Racer
Thread Starter
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No, I never had low oil pressure. The sender would make the light come on below 25 psi, so after 30 minute race in high ambient temps at idle oil pressure would be about 1 bar, this would make warning light come on but oil pressure was not really low.
Does anyone have one of those diagrams of oil flow?
I cant help but feel tha # 1 and 4 rods not being oiled properly
while the #2 and 3 and the mains were in much better shape is significant.
I was shifting a 6500 this weekend because I detuned the motor a lot to make a different class, but I was shifting at 7k regularly last year, some one on here mentioned that the pumps were prone to cavitate at high RPM, maybe the real damage was done last year and it picked now to let go.
I never heard any rod knock while running the car in the shop,
but it is pretty loud.
I'll tell you this, I'm gonna put a 2.5 8 valve in and its gonna get rod bearings on a very regular basis.
Does anyone have one of those diagrams of oil flow?
I cant help but feel tha # 1 and 4 rods not being oiled properly
while the #2 and 3 and the mains were in much better shape is significant.
I was shifting a 6500 this weekend because I detuned the motor a lot to make a different class, but I was shifting at 7k regularly last year, some one on here mentioned that the pumps were prone to cavitate at high RPM, maybe the real damage was done last year and it picked now to let go.
I never heard any rod knock while running the car in the shop,
but it is pretty loud.
I'll tell you this, I'm gonna put a 2.5 8 valve in and its gonna get rod bearings on a very regular basis.
#51
Rennlist Junkie Forever
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No, I never had low oil pressure. The sender would make the light come on below 25 psi, so after 30 minute race in high ambient temps at idle oil pressure would be about 1 bar, this would make warning light come on but oil pressure was not really low.
Does anyone have one of those diagrams of oil flow?
I cant help but feel tha # 1 and 4 rods not being oiled properly
while the #2 and 3 and the mains were in much better shape is significant.
I was shifting a 6500 this weekend because I detuned the motor a lot to make a different class, but I was shifting at 7k regularly last year, some one on here mentioned that the pumps were prone to cavitate at high RPM, maybe the real damage was done last year and it picked now to let go.
I never heard any rod knock while running the car in the shop,
but it is pretty loud.
I'll tell you this, I'm gonna put a 2.5 8 valve in and its gonna get rod bearings on a very regular basis.
Does anyone have one of those diagrams of oil flow?
I cant help but feel tha # 1 and 4 rods not being oiled properly
while the #2 and 3 and the mains were in much better shape is significant.
I was shifting a 6500 this weekend because I detuned the motor a lot to make a different class, but I was shifting at 7k regularly last year, some one on here mentioned that the pumps were prone to cavitate at high RPM, maybe the real damage was done last year and it picked now to let go.
I never heard any rod knock while running the car in the shop,
but it is pretty loud.
I'll tell you this, I'm gonna put a 2.5 8 valve in and its gonna get rod bearings on a very regular basis.
I ask this because the only time I've seen the oil pressure light flicker at idle was with a worn engine (usually rod/crank bearings). I've never had that condition on any of my 951 engines (even on 105F+ ambient days at the track)
Additionally, the gun drilling of your rods will, to some degree, lower your oil pressure.
Also, do you have an aftermarket oil temp gauge?
Lastly, are the 2-3 rod bearings in spec? What about the other rod bearing... was it in spec?
TonyG
#52
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: out in the sticks and flat lands of va wondering around for an open field or pavement!!!
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I'm with Tony on this one my oil pressure (stock gauge) don't drop below the 4 during track time and idle and pegs the needle at like 1300rpm. That is a 30 min session in the dead heat of summer. Oh yeah also a modded car but still just a 2.5.