SFR crank sensor bracket
03-02-2009, 09:17 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
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SFR crank sensor bracket
Anyone have fitment issues with one of these. Every direction and angle I've tried does not line up with the trigger wheel. Almost seems like the alternator adjusment rod should be lower or the bracket needs to be shorter.
Not sure if it is intended to be used with an alternater drop bracket, or if it makes a difference.
Anyone?
Not sure if it is intended to be used with an alternater drop bracket, or if it makes a difference.
Anyone?
03-03-2009, 09:03 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
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I am not sure what the SFR crank Sensor bracket looks like, but here is the one I am using in case it will help.
Last edited by dand86951; 03-03-2009 at 09:04 PM. Reason: insert pic
03-03-2009, 10:21 PM
#4
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Its a very solid setup but I dont think its quite intended for AC delete cars. I made a mount to fit better with the AC delete to get the VR sensor straight on with the wheel. I just used some flat aluminum and some creative drilling.
03-04-2009, 09:03 AM
#7
Nordschleife Master
I have had the Chris White/944 Enhancement trigger setup which should be more or less the same as the SFR setup and had the same problem with the sensor mount.
I have a Lindsey AC-delete bracket and it seems it sits a tad higher up than stock which puts the arm in another position.
I have a Lindsey AC-delete bracket and it seems it sits a tad higher up than stock which puts the arm in another position.
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03-04-2009, 10:23 AM
#8
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Yep, the bracket is not designed for A/C delete - but it will work. Its magnetic so it does not care if it is exactly 90 degrees to the trigger wheel. As long as you are using the electro motive ½” sensor the set up is extremely forgiving and will work over a very large range.
The tensioning rod is extremely rigid once locked down – far more rigid that a bracket mounted to the block with a large reach. The only block mounting that works it to delete the auto tensioner – otherwise the distance form mounting point to sensor is too great.
I have use this set up for years - no issues.
The tensioning rod is extremely rigid once locked down – far more rigid that a bracket mounted to the block with a large reach. The only block mounting that works it to delete the auto tensioner – otherwise the distance form mounting point to sensor is too great.
I have use this set up for years - no issues.
03-04-2009, 10:20 PM
#9
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As Chris has said,it is not designed for use with A/C drop bracket but you can shave the top side down so it looks similiar to the picture DandD posted.Then you can get it set correctly.As Chris has mentioned,we have also not had any issues with this set-up ever. The first car to get this bracket was my car and that was over 10 years ago!
03-05-2009, 12:52 AM
#14
Race Car
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Not enough amplitude on such small teeth were my problems. But then again. I wasn't using the 1/2" sensor chris mentioned / sent with the kit. It was verified DOA when I first tried to use it. Put it on an Oscilloscope. nothing. I was impatient and just got a different one. (paying for the dyno by the hour impatient) Could have been it. But then - yes I have the AC delete, I ran into that tensioner bouncing too much and causing the sensor to run into the teeth. Destroying it. Just one problem after another. I'm a bit frustrated with it myself.
Like I said, the 1/2 " sensor included in the kit was not used due to it being a manufactured defect, or hurt in shipping. Well, I tried to use it, but it left me on a dyno scratching my head for 2 hours trying to figure what was wrong since all sensors were new. I DON"T BLAME CHRIS FOR THIS. This is unfortunately common among aftermarket sensors. And, I never asked him to replace it since I was already on the dyno and needed an immediate replacement. I used another Generic Ford type sensor.
Im currently trying to see if I can cut 60-2 ring off 968 disc and machine it on my fidanza.
Although Chris, I did see a different trigger set-up in one of the pictures you posted of one of your engines you were building. it had a completely different 60-2 wheel on there that looked fairly nice. What set- up was that? I might be interested in using that if this 968 wheel thing becomes too difficult.
Like I said, the 1/2 " sensor included in the kit was not used due to it being a manufactured defect, or hurt in shipping. Well, I tried to use it, but it left me on a dyno scratching my head for 2 hours trying to figure what was wrong since all sensors were new. I DON"T BLAME CHRIS FOR THIS. This is unfortunately common among aftermarket sensors. And, I never asked him to replace it since I was already on the dyno and needed an immediate replacement. I used another Generic Ford type sensor.
Im currently trying to see if I can cut 60-2 ring off 968 disc and machine it on my fidanza.
Although Chris, I did see a different trigger set-up in one of the pictures you posted of one of your engines you were building. it had a completely different 60-2 wheel on there that looked fairly nice. What set- up was that? I might be interested in using that if this 968 wheel thing becomes too difficult.
03-05-2009, 04:45 AM
#15
Racer
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Sorry, but the only correct place to put a crank sensor mount is engine block, period.
Clewett Engineering uses a big aluminum arm that attaches using the oil pan bolts. That thing WILL NOT flex. I think the Chris White / SFR design is more elegant ...but if you want overkill