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Old 02-14-2009, 03:44 PM
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Paseb
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Originally Posted by porshhhh951
If you use a turbo timer or give the car adequate time to cool down after a run before shutoff it really makes little difference.
thx for the answer
Old 02-14-2009, 03:53 PM
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adrian1
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Chris W told me that the ball bearings garret would not be exactly for a 3.0 turbo, and it doesnt make that much of a diff in lag. How much less lag is there If I used a ball bearing gt35 turbo compared to a vitesse turbo?
Old 02-14-2009, 03:56 PM
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seattle951
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Originally Posted by Paseb
how does it compare to a lr super 61?
It has a larger compressor wheel than the LR61. As I understand it, the upside is it will be more efficient at higher volume levels. The downside is that there is that there is more mass to spin increasing the time to spool (more lag).

Others probably can provide more details. My background is limited.
Old 02-14-2009, 04:04 PM
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seattle951
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Originally Posted by porshhhh951
Btw you still selling your car?
Maybe, I am trying to figure out what I want to do when I grow up. I have an incredible overseas offer similar to the work I did in my 20s. Taking this job would mean a substantial pay cut and I am not sure how compatible it would be with a wife and 2 kids. However, this job is what I am most passionate about.

I also have other stateside job opportunities and I am trying to figure out if I want these because of work/life balance issues. I am already working too many hours and I am not sure if I want to kick it up another notch.

I should have this figured out in about 3 weeks. If I do go overseas again there is no point putting the car in storage longterm. I will sell it so somebody else can enjoy it rather than having it rot in storage.

If I choose the overseas option, I will probably list the car on rennlist at the end of summer.
Old 02-14-2009, 04:09 PM
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To digress, you mention a couple of times that you are less than satisfied with the 6 speed changeover. Can you elaborate? Do you find the gearing just too close together or is it something else?

Also, I wonder that more people don't have issues when changing to non bolt up turbos. Especially ones with bigger housings. They get very close to the balance shaft cover (some of you are using them with these touching). Anybody seeing side effects of this?
Old 02-14-2009, 04:19 PM
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seattle951
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Originally Posted by blown 944
Either way that's gotta be one quick little b%%ch. IIRC your weight is ~ 2600 too.
If I keep the car (see other post), the question is what to do next. I am considering going back to the stock intake manifold instead of the LR unit. Based on the research I have done, this should spool the turbo even quicker and increase low/mid TQ. The cost will be a slight drop in HP. I plan to do a before/after on the dyno to test the theory.

The car need to be smogged on more time in May. Right now it is running a high flow catalytical converter and runs very clean. I have a JME Cam that I would like to install but it may jeopardize emissions. I am going to hold off until the final emissions check. I will probably also drop the cat at this time. The JME cam should maintain the low TQ, increase mid TQ and increase HP (at the cost of failing emissions). I also have stiffer valve springs and titanium retainers. This will allow me to increase redline allowing me to make better use of the new power curve.

I also have a Tial wastegate that I will use to replace the LR unit. I don't think the LR unit is problem, but I am not completely convinced that it is performing at 100%.

What to do about the 6-speed is the biggest issue. It is awesome during normal driving but 1st and 2nd are pretty much unusable at WOT. I plan on investigating different gearing options. I would like to increase 1st and 2nd a bit and then increase the spacing between all gears a little more. The GT30R has flattened out the power band enough that I don't need the gears to be this close to keep the turbo in boost.

The car is making about 320 RWHP on a Mustang dyno and I expecting the next round of upgrades to take it closer to 360 RWHP at the same boost level (17 psi). I did have the car on a DynoJet and it cam in at about 360 RWHP with the same tune. Mustangs seem to run lower than DynoJets.

Thanks for the interest.
Old 02-14-2009, 04:27 PM
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You could just get a custom ring and pinion made to increase your overall gearing by 'X' %. Contact DFastest on this. He did a lot of preliminary research on this same matter. It's not cheap, but nor might your alternatives be? I have similar short gearing (951 w S2 r&p) and I like it, but I might have to change when my bigger motor goes in. I find it gets closer to the meat in each gear more readily.

My guess is that the JME cam will want to shift your peak across to the right. I could be wrong but I would assume his cams are all made with a race flavour to them from what I've seen. If you went back to the stock intake this might help offset the cam. You can even get your stock intake modified to improve it's flow.
Old 02-14-2009, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
You could just get a custom ring and pinion made to increase your overall gearing by 'X' %. Contact DFastest on this. He did a lot of preliminary research on this same matter. It's not cheap, but nor might your alternatives be? I have similar short gearing (951 w S2 r&p) and I like it, but I might have to change when my bigger motor goes in. I find it gets closer to the meat in each gear more readily.
Thanks for advice. I will look into this in the Spring.

Originally Posted by 333pg333
My guess is that the JME cam will want to shift your peak across to the right. I could be wrong but I would assume his cams are all made with a race flavour to them from what I've seen. If you went back to the stock intake this might help offset the cam. You can even get your stock intake modified to improve it's flow.
John and I had a number of conversations about my goals and the proper lift, duration, overlap and timing advance to maintain a flat power curve. He believes that the cam I have chosen will equal what I have on the left but provide increases on the right. He also recommended the stock manifold since this is what he built the cam for. Good point about modifying the stock manifold. I will get some input from John on this as well. If he recommends it, I will give it a try.
Old 02-14-2009, 04:52 PM
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You may not have an emissions problem without the cat. I have twice passed the local rolling road emissions with no cat. PO did the cat delete.
Old 02-14-2009, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by seattle951
Thanks for advice. I will look into this in the Spring.



John and I had a number of conversations about my goals and the proper lift, duration, overlap and timing advance to maintain a flat power curve. He believes that the cam I have chosen will equal what I have on the left but provide increases on the right. He also recommended the stock manifold since this is what he built the cam for. Good point about modifying the stock manifold. I will get some input from John on this as well. If he recommends it, I will give it a try.
Oh, ok cool, you've spoken to him about it. I thought it must have been one from his webpage which seem pretty much race cams with the emphasis for the upper rev range.
I've had my stock man modded. PM me if you want any more details.
I didn't realize that JM was still working? I'd be interested in his take on this.
Old 02-14-2009, 09:20 PM
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Just to let everyone know. The turbo was sold. Thx
Old 02-15-2009, 02:55 AM
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More folks should read seattle's experiences with his car. A street car is MUCH more fun, in a 2.5L turbo, if you go after torque, over power. Everyone loves power, but a track set up sux on the street, in a 2.5L turbo. Getting the power NOW is what you want. You aren't going to run it over 100 mph on the street anyway.
Old 02-15-2009, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Paseb
thx for the answer
Unless of course, it's a Garrett BB. then it NEEDS the coolant because the oil line is reduced to almost nothing . Just enough spray for the bearings to stay lubed. Coolant is the ONLY thing keeping those cool.
Old 02-15-2009, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 95ONE
Unless of course, it's a Garrett BB. then it NEEDS the coolant because the oil line is reduced to almost nothing . Just enough spray for the bearings to stay lubed. Coolant is the ONLY thing keeping those cool.
Ill take that advise and run with it
Old 02-15-2009, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ehall
You aren't going to run it over 100 mph on the street anyway.
bawahahaha... speak for yourself


-Rogue


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