odb812

For ICV delete do you block off the lines coming from the intake pipe and going to the intake manifold or do you bypass the valve and connect go directly from the intake pipe to the manifold? Is it safe to drive the car with B and C jumpered on the diagnostic plug? TIA

theedge

You would block the ports. If you connect them directly, youll be bypassing the throttle screw which would cause it to rev way up.

Yes I think youre save to drive with those jumpered.

odb812

thanks

CarbonRevo

Idle control valve right? I can delete that thing?

Do you have to do anything else besides block the ports?

gcb951

Good question. How will it run without it?

odb812

I've been running with mine deleted(using the diagnostic port) here in the mountains in blacksburg, va and it runs alright without it. I had to raise the idle a little bit to smooth it out(it's cold here) but I'll drop it back down when it warms up outside. Some people say they have to give the car gas to start or hold the gas to warm the car up, but I didn't have any of these issues.

KuHL 951

Is there a good reason to delete the ICV if it's working correctly? Just asking. I've never had a problem with any of mine yet.

LFA951

My ISV got stuck, so I deleted it and on it works fine without it, only problem is that on cold mornings (40-50 F) you have to occasionally give it a few turns to start and it will idle al like 500 rpm for a few seconds, then you give it a little throttle, if you give it throttle on start up, you will flood it and it'll take a lot more turns and time to start her up (I know from experience), but it runs fine without it, not to mention more room underneath the intake manifold for better cooling, less hoses, less weight...

odb812

No real reason unless you are really **** about weight or your ICV failed. The ICV is under the intake manifold. When faced with the task of replacing it, that's when the ICV delete becomes attractive. Otherwise, it is a rather small and light part and it doesn't rob any power or anything, so no need to delete.

chris951

If you clean out your ICV once every couple of years, it should last a little longer. I would not advocate deleting the ICV unless you like to be under your hood everytime you drive it. In my honest opinion, it is easier to buy another used or new ICV than to have to deal with "issues" all the time. I tried running my car without it once and was very convinced the engine needed it.

theedge

The car will run fine without the idle valve unless you are in a cold climate or have actual seasons.

fortysixandtwo

Currently my car does not have an ICV installed, but thats on my list of things to change. As others have mentioned, temperature changes affect the idle. I have also found that any additional electrical load will also cause the idle to drop. Having to heel toe the throttle while at an uphill intersection because it just happens to be night and raining, gets old quickly.
Turn on the headlights, foglights, wipers, defrost, blowers, apply the brakes and see how much fun the engine has trying to maintain idle without being able to add additional air to the mix.

Ian Carr

I deleted mine because the unit it self was leaking. No real problem. If it is really cold out i need to keep my foot on the gas for about a minute. That also probably has a lot to do with leaky vacuum system and leak in the cross over.

When I first did it though, it would idle about 700 rpm cold them around 900-1000 warm.

theedge

Depends on where you live. If its a problem, then idling at 900 or 950 can solve it. I set my car to idle at 900 and it did fine with 550 watts of headlights, the blower, fans, etc and it did fine in 20F and lower.

AC is the only big issue.

schwank

Since I have a race car, I don't plan on putting the one I just pulled off back on. Ever.