Lexan windshield: Safe?
#16
Please search the archives with my name, I went through this experience a couple years back. There are two glass sizes, early and late. Late not only has an antenna but is actually wider.
The fit of early glass ($250) is absolute **** in a late car. Late glass ($400) is 3/4" or so wider. The early cars have aluminum trim around the windows too, while the late car only has rubber trim.
The cheapo glass companies think the early is the only glass. I've had three of them out with a windshield that did not fit, and the installers knew it. Even though the computer says it is right. I found a GOOD indy glass guy who located a proper windshield and installed it. He kind of froze when I chopped the antenna off, as he assumed that is why I wanted it. I just wanted a windshield in my race car that was not being held in only by caulk. Yes it was more, but the thought of no positive retention of the windshield was not pleasant.
Or more to the point, I wanted the RIGHT one. If you search for my posts I know I listed the model numbers for each. I was quoted about $650 by a dealer for the right glass, so that sounds close if you have a late car. Since this is the turbo forum....
Sorry for my rantish-type post... there is a ton of misinfo on RL about windshields so I tried to research the right way. Hope that helps you.
The fit of early glass ($250) is absolute **** in a late car. Late glass ($400) is 3/4" or so wider. The early cars have aluminum trim around the windows too, while the late car only has rubber trim.
The cheapo glass companies think the early is the only glass. I've had three of them out with a windshield that did not fit, and the installers knew it. Even though the computer says it is right. I found a GOOD indy glass guy who located a proper windshield and installed it. He kind of froze when I chopped the antenna off, as he assumed that is why I wanted it. I just wanted a windshield in my race car that was not being held in only by caulk. Yes it was more, but the thought of no positive retention of the windshield was not pleasant.
Or more to the point, I wanted the RIGHT one. If you search for my posts I know I listed the model numbers for each. I was quoted about $650 by a dealer for the right glass, so that sounds close if you have a late car. Since this is the turbo forum....
Sorry for my rantish-type post... there is a ton of misinfo on RL about windshields so I tried to research the right way. Hope that helps you.
#17
If there are two sizes then there are two parts #'s in the NAGS. Again, our company got out of the auto glass business back in the early 90's but have friends that are still very active in the trade. I just now went out to look at my '86 to make sure it was a pinch weld and not a gasket install. (I just don't pay any attention anymore.) So if don't have a roll cage rellay need to make sure it's installed correctly; with an approved urethane kit, full prep etc. Strange as it seems the windshild is a structural member in this type appliction. Then again, if have the cage ....... Let me check tomorrow and I'll see if I can point you at a deal on one in dead inventory some place.
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,058
Likes: 11
From: Under Your Car
While you don't want to run lexan on the hatch due to pitting and scratching, there is a company called Percy's out of Missouri that makes scratch proof coated lexan. We have been using them for a few years now. You can take steel wool to them and it won't scratch. With that being said, we don't have any long term (more than 1.5 year of track use) on them to see how they hold up over time. So far so good. We do a little body trimming once the windshield is out, and then use a 930 windshield seal to install the lexan windshields. Then there is no need for and gluing or other securing of the windshield, and it is a nice finished install.
#20
All polycarbonates are very safe. That is what we use in the manufacture of BR (blast and bullet resistant) laminated glass. The outer layers are glass (no scratching / maring) but inner layers are laminated to polycarbonate layers with another medium ( PVB, SGP, EVA etc.). But for a single layer windshield up front? Naw. Besides, the real BR stuff runs about 25mm+ and up thick. GE does make a MR Lexan ( mar resistant) but has now where near the surface hardnerss of glass and it' way expensive. PPG aerospace division makes a lightweight poly for military etc. applications. A bunch of stuff you really didn't want to know. Sorry.
#22
Thread Starter
The Impaler
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 13,696
Likes: 1
From: North Georgia
Thanks for your help
#24
Lorax, shop around. I had mine done last year, doubt they've gone up $150. Don't you have friends in the bodyshop biz that can get a discount? Part of the high price is extra labor to install the reveal molding. It is a major pita! The installer will try to leave w/o installing the molding so have one on hand before you order the glass. I have some old posts on this subject as well. The p/n for the molding has been superseded by a 993 number and it will have to be cut (super simple)because 993 molding goes around bottom of w/s and ours doesn't. Techs will tell you its the wrong part to get out of some extra work. The w/s is a structural member and prevents a ton of body flex. I would think handling would be affected as well as safety so lexan would not be an option. I have not seen a sekurit brand w/s in a late fitment w/o the antenna, so your choices will be limited.
#25
Thread Starter
The Impaler
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 13,696
Likes: 1
From: North Georgia
Lorax, shop around. I had mine done last year, doubt they've gone up $150. Don't you have friends in the bodyshop biz that can get a discount? Part of the high price is extra labor to install the reveal molding. It is a major pita! The installer will try to leave w/o installing the molding so have one on hand before you order the glass. I have some old posts on this subject as well. The p/n for the molding has been superseded by a 993 number and it will have to be cut (super simple)because 993 molding goes around bottom of w/s and ours doesn't. Techs will tell you its the wrong part to get out of some extra work. The w/s is a structural member and prevents a ton of body flex. I would think handling would be affected as well as safety so lexan would not be an option. I have not seen a sekurit brand w/s in a late fitment w/o the antenna, so your choices will be limited.
#26
Good luck trying to r&i an old w/s, thats how I wound up with a new one :-). Glass companies won't gaurantee a used glass against breakage during installation or removal, so you could be out $150 plus cost of used glass. This is a tough w/s to get out in one piece if it was glued in properly the 1st time. I would check every glass shop in the book to try and get the best price. No matter which way you go it will be $painful$. Rather spend money on something that makes the car faster and isn't invisible.
#27
Thread Starter
The Impaler
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 13,696
Likes: 1
From: North Georgia
Good luck trying to r&i an old w/s, thats how I wound up with a new one :-). Glass companies won't gaurantee a used glass against breakage during installation or removal, so you could be out $150 plus cost of used glass. This is a tough w/s to get out in one piece if it was glued in properly the 1st time. I would check every glass shop in the book to try and get the best price. No matter which way you go it will be $painful$. Rather spend money on something that makes the car faster and isn't invisible.