How much current can a generic relay handle? (euro fog wiring)
#1
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Thread Starter
How much current can a generic relay handle? (euro fog wiring)
I'm making a wiring harness for my euro fogs and am wondering if I can get away with using only one relay to send power to the lights or if I should use one relay per light. I currently have 55w bulbs in there, but plan on getting some 100w bulbs at some point and use them. Will the two 100w bulbs draw too much current for one relay? Or, another thing that might help - does anyone know the amp draw of the 100w bulbs?
TIA
TIA
#2
Not Special
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I'm paying attention because I want to know this myself.
Also, I keep reading the IceShark's kits had an additional pigtail for this exact application...where is it? My car came from the PO with the kit installed. Maybe I'm just not seeing it.
Also, I keep reading the IceShark's kits had an additional pigtail for this exact application...where is it? My car came from the PO with the kit installed. Maybe I'm just not seeing it.
#3
You want a relay that can handle 200 watts so P(Watts) = E(voltage) x I (current)
You have a 12VDC battery so E=12
You have a load of 200W so I=P/E=200/12= 16.7 amps
So you need a 12 V relay rated for at least 16 amps. This will do the trick and is easy to get and cheap. Rated at 40 Amps.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...62&tab=summary
You have a 12VDC battery so E=12
You have a load of 200W so I=P/E=200/12= 16.7 amps
So you need a 12 V relay rated for at least 16 amps. This will do the trick and is easy to get and cheap. Rated at 40 Amps.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...62&tab=summary
#5
Nordschleife Master
For what its worth, the Iceshark harness uses two relays, one for the high beam and one for the low beam. I have run the 100/120w bulbs with no issues. I have a generic relay sitting on my desk right now (one of the relays on the harness burnt out) and its rated at 30/40amps. One relay is plenty for both driving lights.
Darren, the pigtail is around where all the wiring for the relays comes out of the fiberglass sleeve.
Albert, your car looks bitchin in the avatar!
Darren, the pigtail is around where all the wiring for the relays comes out of the fiberglass sleeve.
Albert, your car looks bitchin in the avatar!
#6
Not Special
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Jon, thanks. When I get home I'll have to take another look. Is it just sitting out there in the open?
I've installed the euro fogs I got from schwank, just waiting to figure out all the electrical. This would be step one, find power!
Aha! It was tucked behind the relays. Now I've gotta source some connectors, relays, and the like. Jon, did you ever hook yours up?
I've installed the euro fogs I got from schwank, just waiting to figure out all the electrical. This would be step one, find power!
Aha! It was tucked behind the relays. Now I've gotta source some connectors, relays, and the like. Jon, did you ever hook yours up?
Last edited by Wipeout; 01-05-2009 at 10:02 PM.
#7
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Thread Starter
Wipeout, did you buy Dan's S2?
The local autoparts store has generic relays and connectors for the relays for pretty cheap - I would assume some place like napa or something would have them as well. These would work as well.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
The local autoparts store has generic relays and connectors for the relays for pretty cheap - I would assume some place like napa or something would have them as well. These would work as well.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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#8
Not Special
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Yep, Bill, bought Dan's S2. Curious, how are you planing to wire your lights? My plan is to add a fuse and relay to the pigtail and use that to power the fog lights. I'll hook that up to a second fog light switch in the cabin. Still trying to figure out exactly how some of that will look.
#9
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I've got a second fog light switch I'm going to use to control the relay for the driving lights. My current problem is that I need to figure out something to connect the wires to the back of the switch.
For the connections on the switch, I figured out these connections and this will allow me to turn on the driving lights whenever the running lights are on (like the fogs), but will allow them to continue to stay on when I switch to high beams.
(terminals on the back of the switch)
1. ground wire - grounds out the internal lighting in the switch
2. signal wire to the relay
3. power wire for the general dash lighting, I'll probably splice into the wire from the fog light switch or maybe the ash tray light
4. connection bridged to terminal 2 - this will turn on the brighter "on" light of the switch when the switch is turned on and power is being sent out to the relay
5. you can either leave this open and not connected, or you can splice into the wire on this connection on the fog light switch, which will cause the lights to light up when you flash the high beams and the flip up lights aren't up (like the fogs do)
6. power in, which I will get from the same source as terminal 3 so that whenever the interior lighting comes on with the running lights I can turn on the driving lights
If that doesn't make sense, I'm going to do a write up with better explanations once I get mine installed so the diagrams in that should help.
For the connections on the switch, I figured out these connections and this will allow me to turn on the driving lights whenever the running lights are on (like the fogs), but will allow them to continue to stay on when I switch to high beams.
(terminals on the back of the switch)
1. ground wire - grounds out the internal lighting in the switch
2. signal wire to the relay
3. power wire for the general dash lighting, I'll probably splice into the wire from the fog light switch or maybe the ash tray light
4. connection bridged to terminal 2 - this will turn on the brighter "on" light of the switch when the switch is turned on and power is being sent out to the relay
5. you can either leave this open and not connected, or you can splice into the wire on this connection on the fog light switch, which will cause the lights to light up when you flash the high beams and the flip up lights aren't up (like the fogs do)
6. power in, which I will get from the same source as terminal 3 so that whenever the interior lighting comes on with the running lights I can turn on the driving lights
If that doesn't make sense, I'm going to do a write up with better explanations once I get mine installed so the diagrams in that should help.