Best clutch?
#46
Rennlist Member
Your 341ft/lbs at the wheels is going to be more at the flywheel. I know the KEP stafe 1 w/ a stock disc will hold 500ft/lbs.
I would think you could use a stock PP with those numbers but you will need a more aggressive disc (higher coefficient of friction). The CUP disc is still organic just with less springs (no difference in friction). You have a few options for disc choices: Ceramic/bronze which is not very forgiving on the street which seems to be where you drive it most.
The second being Feramic. It is much more forgiving on the street yet has a higher coefficient of friction than the ceramic/bronze/copper setup. You can also get the feramic in a full-face instead of a puck design which will help with streetability.
I bought mine from South Bend Clutch Co out of Indiana.
http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/main_home.html
Andy@dxdracingclutches.com was very helpful to deal with. If you send them your current 951 disc they can rivet on the new material for ~$175 which is far cheaper than getting their disc and that way you know the hub will clear the flywheel bolts!
Really it boils down to a trade; the KEP and stock disc will offer stock like engagement and hold your torque and then some but at a steep price, or just get a more aggressive disc and trade some driveability and save some dough.
Hope this helps
#48
Rennlist Member
The one Charlie mentions does sound like the best short of a puk clutch setup. I believe that there are a few guys running with these to their satisfaction.
#49
Rennlist Member
Some more info on the Feramic marterial:
It has the highest heat resistance of any other clutch material made today plus has a friction coefficient of 0.7. This coefficient also doesn't change with temperature as many clutches do until after 900 degrees. It has a melting point of 1600 degrees.
It has the highest heat resistance of any other clutch material made today plus has a friction coefficient of 0.7. This coefficient also doesn't change with temperature as many clutches do until after 900 degrees. It has a melting point of 1600 degrees.
#52
Rennlist Member
I have a lightened steel flywheel + the KEP pressure plate is Aluminum so any extra weight of the feramic material (yes it's hefty) is saved by the weight savings between the flyhweel and pressure plate. I never noticed any synchro grinding or needing to shift slower. I have a Schnell Short Shift Kit which is alright. I actually prefer the stock throw with good bushings so I think I will go back to stock.
South Bend Clutch took my existing CUP disc and riveted on the Feramic material (both sides) for ~$175. To get their disc and hub (which I found did not clear the flywheel bolts...not enough offset spacing) was $375.
You can go with a hybrid disc where the flywheel side is something other than Feramic for a less wear but then torque holding capacity goes down because now the less aggressive material on the flywheel would be the weakest link. That is why I chose to go with Feramic on both sides.
South Bend Clutch took my existing CUP disc and riveted on the Feramic material (both sides) for ~$175. To get their disc and hub (which I found did not clear the flywheel bolts...not enough offset spacing) was $375.
You can go with a hybrid disc where the flywheel side is something other than Feramic for a less wear but then torque holding capacity goes down because now the less aggressive material on the flywheel would be the weakest link. That is why I chose to go with Feramic on both sides.
#53
Race Car
are you using the 951 PP & FW?
Thanks for the info BTW. I am about sick of the 4 puck, and not being as aggressive with this car now, so this may work very well.
Thanks for the info BTW. I am about sick of the 4 puck, and not being as aggressive with this car now, so this may work very well.
#54
Rennlist Member
Originally, the Callaway 944 still had the rubber hub 225mm NA clutch setup, and I tried to make that size work by going with the Blaszak setup (Kevlar disc and modded Sachs PP) but it failed to hold the torque and would slip once heated up. I then kept the same PP and went with a 225mm Feramic disc but by then I was having problems with slipping again due to a warped Fidanza flywheel and the clutch would slip once again when hot.
It was after all this messing around that I decided to upgrade to the proper 240mm size 951 clutch and go with the KEP PP and stay with the Feramic material.
#57
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Feb 2002
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You can go with a hybrid disc where the flywheel side is something other than Feramic for a less wear but then torque holding capacity goes down because now the less aggressive material on the flywheel would be the weakest link. That is why I chose to go with Feramic on both sides.
#58
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2007
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Well I had MANY issues with clutches on my modded 930 ....so when modding the 951 I went with what worked in the 930 Spec stage 3+ lightweight pressure plate clutch disk and scalloped Spec flywheel. I would not have the problem of the two different metals heat ranges on the lightweight flywheel knowing metal like I do I know that probably a bad idea for the purpose of my car
costas
costas
#60
Rennlist Member
I like the idea of the resurfacing a Cup disk using the Feramic material, but I wonder how long the center section is designed to last (assuming one starts with a worn-out disk). Can it be reused repeatedly? I assume eventually the springs wear out.
Also, does anyone know where it find a used Cup disk?
Also, does anyone know where it find a used Cup disk?