Darwantae951

Do you really change your TB/BB/WP every 15k miles? Oil every 3500?

tone3721

In the AZ desert every 30k. WP sometimes 60k.

Darwantae951

That's my schedule regardless of location. As long as the car doesn't sit for a VERY long time. Just curious as the OPs first post said 15k miles and 3500.

gt37vgt

More photos please Pat

sebastian944

Well maybe 20k , I only drive 5k a year so 4 years. And I was told 4 years is too old.

Darwantae951

Ah, I understand now. That's probably the best choice.

Luis de Prat

I'm honored!

Ski

thank you but it just depends on what you want, us or a friend. Pistons drive up the cost, and I find the the comment about older owners sort of funny, as I'm an older owner and would go through all the little items, especially electrical items - I hate piece milling stuff.
block work $500-$650, gaskets/seals/belts/rollers/bearings $900, sensors $400 and then clutch $1000, pistons $900-$1500, water pump $350, hoses/heater valve and expansion tank, vac lines, $500. Head refresh to head work can range $400 - $1500 or more. That's just an average if say it was an overbore and you wanted it almost all new.

The track car engine cost about $3100 but we had spare items as new (bearings, belts, gasket sets). Big tickets were machine work $625, pistons $1100, head refresh/new springs and perp drill of the crank $1000; didn't need a clutch and all the previous sensors were new in 2002.

gt37vgt

thats funny My mate seems to think you can't have a reliable race engine on that budget he should be here soon .....I think the the important thing about reliability is watching the gauges and tuning right .
all the fancy machine work and trick bits wont save your engine when it leans out over heats and pings its **** off . also compromising little once you want more than 400 hp seems to be difficult to get these flimsy blocks to hang together ..
Merry Christmas

JohnKoaWood

WOW, I don't think I could let myself drive my P Car that often, I have accrued 25000 miles this year on the 88 N/A, But then I have only had the car for a year..

Clutch
TB (2nd time coming in a few weeks as the WP is dead)
Trans mount (solid from lindsey)
Engine Mounts (OEM turbo style installed by dealership)
Plugs
Cap & Rotor
wires
shocks
struts
K&N Air filter
wheel bearings (not sure I saw anyone else list these)
Exhaust (Dansk cat-back)
Interior resto (sun roof gears, trim pieces, new stereo)
Radiator
Hoses
Tail Light assys (old ones were cracked over the brake lights letting in water)

Other than the TB and mounts done at the dealership the week I bought the car I did the rest of the maintenance myself

Needs:
Bushings
Water Pump
Belts
Rollers
Carpet
To be back on the road....

Stealthyfish

I've gotta ask. I'm a potential buyer that is interested in purchasing a 951. 951's caught my eye by their sleek styling, the wider style body (they seem wider than the standard 944s), and their weight/handling/general performance. As for usage, I would be looking to use it mostly as a secondary DD/autox rat, racking up a potential 10,000 miles a year or so. I'm very performance oriented but I have to be somewhat practical as well and must taken reliability into consideration. Are 951's horribly expensive to maintain and do problems occur quite often? Can anyone give me a relative comparison between owning an E36 328i and a 951? Should I be looking at a 944 S2 instead for my purposes? I have looked a little into common 951 parts that go out and will not purchase one without a full recorded maintenance history with at least a recent water pump, clutch, and timing belt replacement.

Btw, I own an E36 1998 BMW 328i. I've been stranded once. Happened to be my 6th day of owning the car when the engine clutch fan came apart and destroyed itself, my radiator, and my water pump. I've owned the car about a year now and she's seen a full cooling system refresh (due to the previously mentioned carnage) as well as a full suspension refresh. Are 951s better or worse than what I've gone through with my E36?

F18Rep

Thats the ticket.

The beemer gets boring after about 3000 miles - boring in maintenance (good) and boring to drive (bad). YMMV... Bruce

BMW took their street cars to the track, Porsche took their track cars to the street.

DFASTEST951

I would consider my car restored as well as well sorted so I'd be pissed if I did anything other than oil changes after it was done. So, for seven years, until I broke my tranny with my power, all I did was change the oil...every 500 miles. Nothing else. But I paid for that. Now that I look back, it was worth it too. I hope the next person to modify my car can keep it as reliable as I've had it so far. That's a big shoe to fill.

INURGRL951

Mine has never left me stranded other then a flat tire even getting clipped by dump truck went home on its own ......just giving it more thought NONE of my 951 left me stuck other then a flat tire or someone hitting my car!


costas

Type_LT

I've had my 86 951 for 8 years now, daily driven, 155k, and it has never let me down once.

I would say I'm addicted to peering under the hood though, continually looking for something to replace.

I would note the 15,000k timing belt replacement and waterpump is excessive for a non/lightly modified car. I personally check my timing belt every 5k for tension and wear. My belt and waterpump both have 45k on them and the tension and belt look fine, however, 45k is time to change...

For me the list over the past 8 years is:
1. Timing belt, waterpump, balance belt, rollers/idlers + all front seals.
2. Plugs, plug wires, cap/rotor (couple times)
3. Flush PS/Brake/Coolant every 2 years.
4. Drive axles/CV's
5. Front Wheel Bearing re-pack
6. Fuel hoses
7. 930 Clutch/Rear seals
8. Clutch master/slave
9. Front Windshield (the old one wasn't crack, just pitted)
10. TPS
11. Exhaust header gaskets and studs
12. Muffler replaced with aftermarket Stainless
13. A/C Recharge

Those are the main items at least...