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"A well sorted 951 is pretty damn reliable"

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Old 12-23-2008, 03:38 PM
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sebastian944
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Default "A well sorted 951 is pretty damn reliable"

Going through the threads i often read people complaining about the repair costs. I would love a real checklist from the top owners here. When you say well sorted, what maintenance interval do you run by? What is the work that is needed to keep a 951 sorted without going paranoid? I do know the obvious ones - timing belt/rollers/waterpump (15,000 miles) Fuel filter, change oil 3500 miles.. but what about everything else, i.e DME computer, fuel injectors, fuses/fusebox/tierods/cvjoints/transmission syncros/intake manefold.gaskets/seals/clutch/oil pan/engine harness, reference sensors, ignition coil, spark plugs, brakes pads, discs, engine mounts, control arms/bushings. I mention paranoid because that is really what it is, what is real and what isn't? Should i just start replacing everything even if there is nothing wrong so i can say i did preventative maintenance? lol i mean when i read the engine could tear it self apart if you don't buy the solid transmission mount it makes me worried. I suppose the best way to not be paranoid is to just sell the car i have now and buy a tub and have someone build the car from scratch for me.
Old 12-23-2008, 03:46 PM
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fbgh2o
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Best way to avoid the fear factor is stay off Rennlist LOL.

I am curious to hear what other say to this as well. The reality is that as performance automobile, it likely requires more attention than a typical Honda, add to that it is 22 years old and you will need to stay on top of things from a routine maintenance and preventative maintenance perspective. For example, my winter project is engine wiring harnesses. I am replacing same to deal with the fact that the originals are old, brittle and have been subject to 22 years of under hood heat.

The other part of the equation is learn to as much of it yourself as possible to keep the cost down. My wife now call my 951 "the mistress" as I spend as much quality time with it...
Old 12-23-2008, 03:49 PM
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Ian Carr
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Step 1: replace/repair every thing on car
Step 2: replace/repair every thing on car 30,000 miles later.
Old 12-23-2008, 03:49 PM
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sebastian944
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fbgh20 - I realize you are in Ottawa, a 5 hr road trip -- maybe sometime in the spring i would like to stop over and say hi. I could use a real perspective on my car without having to pay a mechanic to tell what i need or don't need. I would love to see your ride too
Old 12-23-2008, 03:50 PM
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jasonlp
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The factor freaks if any exist otherwise i deemed my car at least the porsche lemon turbo. It goes fast and it breaks down even faster

after the latest breaks i think the only original major component left is the alternator
Old 12-23-2008, 04:03 PM
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Ski
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Many variables here but I'll take a shot:

I consider mine well sorted, no major issues, I did blow one head gasket early in my career, but that's it. Mine has never failed to start, never run hot. However...in 2001 I went through the car with new; turbo, head, rod bearings, gaskets, seals, clutch kit, radiator, water pump, new rear axles. After I learned a bit - then added MAF, piggyback, intercooler, hard pipes, software again, injectors, WBO2, and added an extra ground wire.

During the first renovation, both S & R sensors were new, wiring harness was ohmed out, new IAS, new TPS, DME relay, new A/C system, new temp sensors (engine and DME), new expansion tank, heater valve, and all hoses.

If you try to do all of this at the same time, the $$ are overwhelming. I gathered parts for a year, had a monthly amount that I spent. I did sell all the old stuff I took off the car as well on ebay. I sold no junk but my 75k parts may have been a gold mine to someone with 182k on their car.

My car has been very reliable, I do plugs every two years, belts every 4 years(avg 8-9k miles), oil every 2k (VR 20/50), and I repack the CV joints if it looks like to much black $hit back there. Tranny fluid every 4 years - but I enjoy tinkering with the car in the garage. The track car, it was pretty much half of the street car - oil/filter after every event, belts every two years, and the head came off every two years just to check the bores. CV joints were done every year. If only the rod had not given way I'm convinced it would still be on the track, albeit a clutch disc by now but who knows.

There may be some progress on a wire harness shortly and I think most people should have a spare DME and KLR as the cars age. I think anyone adding performance (100 rwhp+ over stock) to these cars WITHOUT adding a WBO2 should just burn their money and save the bandwith for the rest of us.

To the boost and the upcoming 2.8L.
Old 12-23-2008, 04:14 PM
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My comment is that my mountain bike has left me stranded somewhere more often than my 951.

The score is
Mountain Bike: Three times
951 with 216k miles: Zero times stranded
Old 12-23-2008, 04:14 PM
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My comment is that my mountain bike has left me stranded somewhere more often than my 951.

The score is
Mountain Bike: Three times
951 with 216k miles: Zero times stranded
Old 12-23-2008, 04:30 PM
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sebastian944
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my first road trip (2hr) i blew 3 coolant hoses and my radiator.. and so i was stranded. My first in town drive my transmission short shifter bolt came out which left me stranded because i couldn't put it in gear. This is because previous owner didn't properly install the short shift kit. I spent almost as much money on towing than my car this summer.
Old 12-23-2008, 05:04 PM
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Luis de Prat
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I think the real question is how far from stock you mean by "well sorted."

My 951 has never left me stranded in 8 years of ownership, but then again, I stay on top of maintenance and am quick to fix anything that comes up.

That said, the car is stock. From years reading Rennlist, I've come to the realization that 951 reliability is inversely proportional to 951 modification.

What year is your 951 and how far from stock is it?
Old 12-23-2008, 05:15 PM
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Josh B
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I would say the typical 125k mile non enthusiast owned 944 turbo out there probably needs the following items

1. water pump, timing belt, balance belt, rollers, front engine seals
2. cam tower seals/gasket
3. engine mounts
4. at least hotside cv axle
5. all radiator hoses replaced
6. power steering lines and rack replaced
7. ac compressor rebuilt
8. new battery cables
9. voltage regulator on alternator
10. turbo blow by getting excessive
11. wastegate not operating at its best
12. injector wiring harness connectors and wiring getting brittle
13. speed and ref sensors stuck in bracket and connectors coming apart
14. oxygen sensor due for replacement
15. fuel pump check valve might be out
16. AOS seals
17. exhaust leak somewhere due to cracked doughnut gaskets or flanges
18. Throttle body seals shot
19. J boot developing cracks
20. Head gasket possibly getting nasty especially if wrong coolant ever used
21. Possible clutch replacement needed
22. gear selector rod pin shot
23. Transmission fluid change

I am sure I am forgetting some things but once those items are taken car of you would probably get another 80 to 100k out of the car save for another H2O job at 45k.
Old 12-23-2008, 05:21 PM
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M758
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I have had my 944 Turbo S since Feb of 1997. Leave me stranded? Once and a couple times need some help getting home.

First time. Pin hole leak in an oil cooler line. I brought it home by keeping the oil topped off. Not ideal, but worked.

Second time coolant hose to the heater valve failed. Again pin hole leak. Happend on PCA drive 300 miles from home. So I repaired it that evening at the hotel. No bid deal.

Thrid issue. CV bolts backed out and joint fell out of the car. So my wife happen to be driving by in the same direction so I hopped a ride with her and went home and got my spare bolts and jack and fixed it on the side of the road.

Overall not bad.

BTW my NA race car has taken alot of abuse and rarely result in a DNF for me. In may 90 races I have 3or 4 DNF's. Couple engine problems, one clutch failure and 1 brake caliper broke off. Consider how hard I am on the car and that is was total POS when I started that is not bad.
Old 12-23-2008, 05:26 PM
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sebastian944
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Originally Posted by Luis de Prat
I think the real question is how far from stock you mean by "well sorted."

My 951 has never left me stranded in 8 years of ownership, but then again, I stay on top of maintenance and am quick to fix anything that comes up.

That said, the car is stock. From years reading Rennlist, I've come to the realization that 951 reliability is inversely proportional to 951 modification.

What year is your 951 and how far from stock is it?
I would say mildly modified. I have a 1986 Turbo. It has a K27-#6 turbo. AutoThority Stage 2 chip and MAF. AutoThority short shifter. Big Brake Brembo 12" slotted 993 type front rotors with PH adapters to increase break pad contact area. Lowered with 250# Eibach springs with Koni adjustable/Rebound adjustable struts. Raceware head studs (final torque 65 ft/lbs). Baffled oil pan. Centerforce Clutch. Strut Tower Brace. Tires 245-45-16 rear and 225-50-16.

First thing i need to do is the timing belt. It's over 4 years old.. and the waterpump is the early style. Radiator needs to be changed to and i have an oil leak on the upper return line from the oil cooler to turbo. Engine mounts need to be done too, i have some vibration at idle. My battery is not holding charge and is discharging far too fast (it's under warrenty so i can change that)

Last edited by sebastian944; 12-23-2008 at 05:50 PM. Reason: more.
Old 12-23-2008, 06:24 PM
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fbgh2o
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951 reliability is inversely proportional to 951 modification
Going into my signature, Luis.
Old 12-23-2008, 06:45 PM
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fbgh2o
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Sebastian,

Any time you want to come, you are more than welcome to - just send me a PM . By no means am I an expert, would rate my wrenching skills at 5 out of 10. Most of the problems are little ones that I have encountered are the little ones and the car has never left me stranded anywhere But to give you an idea, in the year that I have had the car I have:

Engine
New belts and rollers (done by mechanic)
New fluids in PS, Transaxle, coolant (done by mechanic)
Full tune up (plugs, wires, cap, air filter, fuel filter)
New vaccum lines
Cleaned ISV
New Cycling valve
Venturi Delete
Completely cleaned the engine bay
New hood pads

Cooling
New front rad hoses
New rad (done by mechanic - running hot condition)
New temperature sender (done by mechanic - running hot condition)
New fan thermo switch (done by mechanic - running hot condition)
Rewired fan resistors

Exhaust
Installed 3" cat-delete systems from Lindsey

Interior
Replaced the dash, dash trim and all interior lights
Replaced the hatch seal
Addressed hatch delamination of the glass with silicon (it's a short term fix)
New stereo head unit and speaker upgrade

Suspension
New rear shocks

Other
Headlight upgrade with Rennbay harness
Installed Boost Gauge

The car was in decent shape when I got it, but to it just goes to prove that there is a lot that needs to be done to make sure that it remains reliable. I was fortunate in the fact that this car had a new clutch installed 20K miles ago and new brakes and a new PS pump done just before I purchased it.


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