DanR

Had a good day at limerock today however on the way home I noticed not 1 not 2 but 3 4 problems. Am I on the right track to resolve my issues

1) when ever I turn the wheel right I get a slight vibration and a deffinite droning noise. I suspect it could be my front left wheel bearing as I have not tightened it in 4 track days? (I thought at first it could be my rear passenger axel as I rebuilt it last week however the noise happens as soon as I turn right ((no noise on left hand turns)

2) my heater only blows hot or VERY hot even when I turn down the thermostat. Only thing I have done recently is to remove the canister next to the battery and block of the tube so I can fit my battery kill switch. What could I have done?

3) for some reason my revs do not drop below 1200rpm. Normally they fall just below 1000. Any ideas?

cheers Dan

xsboost90

near the battery, there is a set of vac. lines that route to your heater control. They are behind the cambox. If either of those comes loose you'll have constant heat. Could also be the door servo clip on the ds in front of the console, under the dash- those have a tendency to break and the door stays open as well.

i would check or replace the wheel bearings up front- in a pair- rear axels usually make noise on excelleration or decel. In my experience.

Van

#2 = I but you broke the nipple off of the vacuum reservoir that lives next to the battery.

(rant)Can you actually have a "vacuum reservoir"? Doesn't a reservoir imply it has to hold something? But a vacuum? Are you high? That's nothing!(/rant)

Van

p.s. Your front left spindle could be wearing where the wheel bearing race presses into it. If you're constantly tightening your wheel bearing, that could be the cause.

And, about the idle, make sure the TPS is clicking at idle, and check with a multimeter (best to check at the DME plug) to make sure it's working. It could also be an idle control stabilizer.

VWaddict

Vacuum leak casing high idle?

Van

Good point! Might be 2 birds with 1 stone!

DanR

ok managed to get in the garage tonight ......... first up I had a look at the front wheel bearing. I actually tightened up the bearing by 1/4 of a turn. Took it out and noise when turning right has gone. I ordered a new set of front bearings and will fit them after my next track day. Hope it lasts! and also hope that the hubs are ok when i come to fit new bearings. (per vans note that if I keep needing to tighten them there could be a bigger problem!)

had a look around the vac lines and could not see anything out of place and the idle has actuallly retuned back to 1000 rpm.

I refitted the vac canister however my heater is still blowing warm so it was not the vac canister. WHERE SHOULD I LOOK NEXT?

guess I also need to look at my tracking / alignment as the car is really pulling to the left, just dont want to really do it for 1 track weekend as going to change the suspension over the winter so will need to have it redone

Van

When does it pull to the left? Under braking? Under acceleration? While turning right? etc...

Do you have a vacuum pump? You can check to make sure the heater valve is working... if it is, and you have vacuum, then the climate control unit may be flaky...

DanR

pulls left under normal driving whether accelerating or under steady speed!

No I dont have a vacume pump but you know me....... I will buy one if it is an excuse for a new tool. I presume autozone will have one. Do I then just connect to a vac line?

Van

A good tool to have. I think they're about $30 and look like this:


and a link to one: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...icial%26sa%3DG

Also good for testing blow off valves, fuel pressure regulators and wastegates.

I wonder if you have a sticking brake caliper. Or if the rear tow changed on one side - have you gone off or hit any curbing lately?

dillon410021

I used that in Physics class last week

DanR

I rode the curbing a couple of times on the lefthander at LRP last week, I know it is pretty rough on it. Don't think caliper is sticking as when I tightened the bearing last night the disk spun freely

bigdeano

Get on clarks-garage.com. Go to the Heater topic and scroll down to the bottom of the problems. There you'll find a writeup with 2 pictures about these little plastic clips that fail under the dash on the driver side. If one of the plastic clips is broken, when you turn the temp setting switch, it will still be blowing full heat because it will not be able to push the linkage that ties in your HVAC system. Most german cars have a failsafe for full heat so that if something goes wrong in the HVAC system, the heat will automatically be what turns on in case it's the middle of winter. This is why you get full heat instead of cool air when something like this happens. But I digress... those plastic clips are what you should definitely check next. I had to replace mine last year and I think it was 2 bucks so it's a cheap fix.

DanR

cheers, I will check that next

ehall

betcha that is it. It's a 3 dollar fix.
Free if you just epoxy the little clip in the right place on the bar.