6ocyclehum

OK- for the life of me, I cannot figure this out:

My car will boost upon restart- about 10/11 lbs max(I have just added a new boost gauge). After a few times of great boost, "limp/protection" mode comes on, 1.2 bar or about 4 lbs. Code is 3-3 "replace KLR".
Here is what I have done, all with no change:
replaced KLR,
new TPS,
checked voltage at KLR and DME (both 12.2 V when battery reads 12.5),
checked TPS outputs at KLR and dME,
read cylcling valve ohms,
checked for 12 volts coming to cycling valve at 65% throttle.
Checked blow off valve.
Replaced almost all air-related hoses under intake,
new intercooler hoses,
read knock sensor ohms on unit and KLR, both within spec.
Checked knock sensor torque.
replaced hose to wastegate
wastegate will hold vac
fuel injectors flow tested, resealed
cleaned grounds
replaced neg batt cable

Idle is fairly smooth, right at 800/900 slight occasional miss/hiccup
boost guage shows about 14lbs vac at idle (don't think I have vac leak)
Have Autothority II chips in DME/KLR.
My speedometer will sometimes hang up at 0-5 and jump to 20 mph. This couldn't affect my problem could it?
I now have two KLR's one with a factory chip and one with my Autothority chip- either KLR unit will set the 3-3 code and limit boost.
I tried disconnecting the cycling valve elec connection and the car right away limited boost to 1.2 bar/4 lbs, but when I read the code it was the same: 3-3.
When I clamp the wastegate hose, have plenty of boost, but I am guessing the timing is still getting retarded by the computer when the limit comes on.

Not sure what to do next.......

fast951

You could have a bad CV. The KLR, KLR chip, CV and WG are all involved in boost control.
When you replaced the KLR, did you replace the chip as well? The WG seems to be functioning as you do see boost for a short period.

6ocyclehum

I got a used, tested good KLR. Came with the factory chip. Got same results with this unit. I put the Autothority chip in it, same results.....
I've tested the CV, the ohms reading, the wiring to it puts out 12 volts at 65% throttle, and when the CV itself gets battery voltage applied it rapidly clicks..... I do kind of suspect it ,as when I disconnected it, I got the same 3-3 code, but the car never boosted properly at all, so it must have realized right away a problem with the CV.
Very frusturating........

Van

Remember, the cycling valve will start out open (any initial boost pressure will actuate the wastegate, giving you a max boost of about 1.2 bar absolute pressure), then close, as signaled by the KLR, to build boost, then go back to open at full boost.

Without the cycling valve connected (or unplugged from the KLR) you will only be able to get to 1.2 bar boost. When it goes into overboost protection, it means that:
a) your KLR is giving the signal to NOT close the cycling valve on acceleration;
b) your cycling valve is working because it allows boost be made (before the KLR goes into overboost).

Something is telling the computer that there is an unsafe boost situation. Perhaps it's reading inputs incorrectly, or perhaps the condition really exists. Perhaps some sensor is giving the KLR bad data, and the KLR realizes that...

Have you replaced the pressure hose that goes to the KLR?

It may also be worth checking the AFM and even the KLR/DME grounds...

In fact, more more I think about it, I'm leaning towards AFM... if your AFM is saying xxx amount of air is going into the system (so many cubic liters per second... remember it's probably a metric measurement!), but it's reading low, and the boost being detected is .75 bar (11 psi), the computer may realize that the numbers adding up may yield a condition outside of the fuel map, so it goes into overboost protection to "protect" your engine.

Let us know how you make out.

6ocyclehum

Van- I also was thinking of the AFM (running out of parts to suspect!) . I went ahead and pulled it, and popped off the plastic cover and did the "Clark's Garage" battery test. It tested good.

I have already checked the plastic line to the KLR, sealed off one end and applied vacuum, and it did not leak.

I'm guessing DME possibly (didn't you have a problem with yours? but it was the fuel cut out mode, right?), but doubtful. Maybe somehow the two (KLR) are not communicating correctly. Maybe the Autothority chip in the DME?

Could be a shorting wire somewhere- that will be tough to find.

The manual also says if the knock sensor shows the correct ohm reading that does not guarantee it works correctly, only way to know for sure is to replace. Not giving the knock code though. The code it's giving does not make sense....I just hate to buy stuff that's not needed! Damn thing is killing me already!

I'm about ready to get a MBC and be done with it, but I'm still a little paranoid the fault is real- but I kind of doubt it. I don't hear any type of detonation/ping at all. I've got a '68 Cadillac that has trouble with todays lower octane gas, and when it detonates, you can hear it clearly. Even with a MBC, if the KLR was in "limp" mode, it would retard the timing wouldn't it?

Van

My DME did have a bad resistor in it (I had it fixed by SECU - http://www.ecudoctors.com/).

It turned out, ultimately, that the DME wasn't the problem - in my situation, the reading from the AFM didn't jive with the value of the TPS at full throttle.

At WOT, the TPS was only giving a partial throttle value, but the AFM showed large quantities of air going through. The computer was "concerned" about the safety of the engine, so it cut spark and fuel.

That's why I was thinking that on your car, maybe the values don't jive, but in the other direction. In my car, too much metered air for the fuel map would make a lean condition... in your car, too little metered air for the fuel map would make for a rich condition. Maybe the DME cuts fuel for the lean side and limits boost/timing for the rich side... I'm drawing straws here - I really don't know.

You said you tried a few different chips in the KLR - have you tried different ones in the DME?

hp18racer

Anything non-stock in the plumbing to get pressure to the KLR? If it is seeing intercooler inlet pressure, the value is a little higher than manifold pressure.

6ocyclehum

Hmmm.... Van, I think your on the money here...The official manual explanation for code 3-3 is "replace KLR" but mentions TPS problems can also set this code (even though the TPS has two codes of it's own- gotta love this pre OBD sh*t!). I tried to test all the TPS outputs, etc I could from the manual, but I have not nailed down the "full throttle impulse" yet, I checked it at closed throttle, was OK, but the full throttle test is a bit more difficult to do (really just need jumpers going into cabin from diagnostic port and test drive).

I have another thread specifically about my throttle cable adjustment. When checking all this throttle stuff, just for the hell of it, I checked to see is flooring the gas pedal opened the throttle fully- it does not. I was unable to get a perfect adjustment, but did make it better. The throttle is now set to not completely close ,and get fairly close to WOT. I was able to set my idle speed OK. I think (hope) this could be where my problem lies. Maybe the TPS is not going through it's full motion due to my cable- could be stretched. It's never seeing WOT, but the AFM is showing WOT air coming though......I'm REALLY drawing straws also....
I did check WOT at the DME and it read 2.67K, with the range being 2.7K to 4.something. I figured that was good enough for government work, but maybe not so in Germany...
Raining tonight, and have drank my fill, but tomorrow night I think I'll rig the throttle cable to shorten it slightly, reset TPS, and test this idea.
From what I have read, the Autothority chips will get rid of the fuel cut, as you experienced. Not 100% on that, but I remember seeing that.
hp18racer- the pressure line is stock other than tapping in to run my new boost gauage, and it behaved the same before and after. But- it will go into "limp" mode after awhile even if I'm not getting into the boost, which I'm guessing could be TPS related....
I'll follow up , and any ideas are appreciated! (if this doesn't work - MBC all the way......)