2.8 Big Bore Project (with pics)
10-11-2008, 01:09 AM
#31
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10-11-2008, 01:50 AM
#32
Three Wheelin'
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I found a picture of one of the pistons. I still need to go down to the shop and take pics of the block. I just took my stock 2.5 motor apart earlier. I will need to take the bottom end to the machine shop monday as he will need the crank and rods for balancing. To be honest the internals on my stock engine look flawless... but then again, I am no expert. I just bought a ADJ Cam gear. I am now in the market for a nice CAM. This bad boy need to breathe 
Will post more pictures soon
Will post more pictures soon
10-11-2008, 03:13 AM
#36
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Originally posted by CPR:
This cannot be a real project...I have not seen one beer can in any picture.
This cannot be a real project...I have not seen one beer can in any picture.
10-14-2008, 05:42 PM
#37
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Can anyone advise me on work I should get done to the crank while it is out?
This car will be mostly street and may see 1 or 2 DE's a year.
I already have a Oil baffle/Crankscraper.
THanks
This car will be mostly street and may see 1 or 2 DE's a year.
I already have a Oil baffle/Crankscraper.
THanks
10-14-2008, 07:43 PM
#40
I don't think it's necessarily for race engines, it just reduces the rotating mass inside the engine and allows for easier rev matching, etc...
10-14-2008, 07:47 PM
#41
Race Car
Considering how crappy the oiling system is on these things it may be best to go dry sump and save the cross drilling $$. At very minimum a good oil cooler will go a long way.
As far as knife edging that is probably more of a preference thing, and where you plan on spending your rpm time. Considering you are going the big bore I would suspect you plan on running some rpm's rather than the stroked lower rpm approach. Anything done to help oiling will be well spent.
One thing I have done is to move the oil feed from the balance shaft over to the pressure sender.
Better sources of info would be CEP, Gomes, and Chris White from what I have read . I am just speaking from an occasional 7000 rpm experience and one spun bearing due to low oil (1 qt early on). Since doing the things I have done, bearings have held up, HG's not so much.
As far as knife edging that is probably more of a preference thing, and where you plan on spending your rpm time. Considering you are going the big bore I would suspect you plan on running some rpm's rather than the stroked lower rpm approach. Anything done to help oiling will be well spent.
One thing I have done is to move the oil feed from the balance shaft over to the pressure sender.
Better sources of info would be CEP, Gomes, and Chris White from what I have read . I am just speaking from an occasional 7000 rpm experience and one spun bearing due to low oil (1 qt early on). Since doing the things I have done, bearings have held up, HG's not so much.
10-14-2008, 11:59 PM
#44
Race Car
From what I understand the oil from the tapped bs is also feeding that area of the crank; ie rod bearings.
Considering there are many failures of the #2 bearing my deduction was that the feed to the turbo may cause a pressure drop leading to starvation.
Not to be taken as absolute, but so far so good for me. jIt ust made more sense to me to take froma collective source rather than specific.
Considering there are many failures of the #2 bearing my deduction was that the feed to the turbo may cause a pressure drop leading to starvation.
Not to be taken as absolute, but so far so good for me. jIt ust made more sense to me to take froma collective source rather than specific.
10-15-2008, 03:51 AM
#45
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I have a knifed crank and a light stock fly and it does have the tendency to want to stall from time to time. Having said that, I also like the ability to spin it out a little easier too. Not the bearing, the rpms! Been there, done that.
You don't need a d/sump for a street car, but doing something to the wet sump beyond stock is a good idea. CEP can help you with both, but neither are cheap, like another vendor's door hinge. Depends on what you want to do with your car, how you drive, and how much you value your motor.
Don't undervalue the type of oil you use re engine wear / spun bearings either. Very important.
You don't need a d/sump for a street car, but doing something to the wet sump beyond stock is a good idea. CEP can help you with both, but neither are cheap, like another vendor's door hinge. Depends on what you want to do with your car, how you drive, and how much you value your motor.
Don't undervalue the type of oil you use re engine wear / spun bearings either. Very important.