DrZ1

I have not looked at the track car as it is in another location, I have two eyes in front on my street car, are these stock?

Also for the rear I like the look of the ones Ellssuu posted as opposed to others, as they have three bolt holes as opposed to one. As in in the rear there are 3 bolts that this tow eye should fit. Are these bolts stock as well?

http://www.rennenmetal.com/products.asp?cat=1

Steve

MAGK944

I like the look of the three bolt ones too.



The attachment point is stock on the rh inner fender next to the fuel tank



Also, don't know how the lower rear strut mounted ones would work with a moton/coilover set-up due to the strengthening piece you have to add to run these set-ups.

Spidey944

^^^^ I have that one. It works great, and it hangs down a bit, so i get a lot of, "OOoooooOOO What's that!" questions. LOL. FWIW, if you have a turbo rear valence, I have yet to find a way to hook one up on the drivers side.

2bridges

the key is sprung vs unsprung eyelet location.

Sprung mounting (to body) means you must cinch down tight enough to never allow suspension compression. Otherwise slack will develop in straps/chains and a realistic possibility of coming off entirely.

Having trailered countless cars in various states - you learn to always always tie down to non sprung suspension whenever possible. This is critical for non-drivers (no drive train/trans/ebrake) to help keep the car on the trailer should the tie downs get loose. The liability is so much more than the car you are trailering.

Spidey944

Agreed, the shock mount eyelets are probably the best options when towing.

EDIT: Also, the ones on front behind/near the Radiator, are NOT very strong!!

Oddjob

As mentioned above, using tow-hooks vs tie-downs for strapping to a trailer is arguably a less preferred method.

There are rear tow hooks available that hang low enough to avoid both the rear spoiler and muffler (for both driver and pass. side), which mount to the same factory mounts as the ones mentioned above. Made by a local shop and available from APEXSPG.com (but not shown on their website), sold as a pair, not individually, but still at a higher cost than buying two of the tow hooks as sold by rennenmetal shown above.

Not a good pic, cant see the detail, but can get the idea of how far it hangs down for clearance. I personally would not use these as trailer tie-downs.

jerome951

Rick, I have something very similar (OG used to sell them) in the same location and it works like a charm w/ my Motons. I had to space the shock away from the control arm for spring/hat clearance anyway, so these become one of the spacers.

My exhaust is pretty low and the strap (I cross mine) coming from the driver's side touches at the front of the muffler but hasn't caused a problem.

rlm328

If you do an internet search on the proper way to tie down your or any vehicle is not with body mounts. The best way is on the unsprung portion. Either by the wheels or from a shock tower mount.

Also you should not cross your tie down straps. You only need about 3 to 4 inches off set from the mounting point on the car and the point on the trailer to centralize your car. When the straps are crossed and one of the straps fail, then remaining strap will not keep the car from moving forward.

Travis - sflraver

Just a side note on our tow hooks if you are considering a set that bolt to the body. Ours are zinc plated then powder coated. This means that if you do scratch the powder coating, inevitable if used for towing, they will not rust. This is why they cost a little more than similar options on the market.

Rick

I think most people (me included) who do cross the straps also have a set going directly forward in the rear so there are 4 straps in the rear...2 in the front. This has worked perfectly for me even with more then 15k miles in towing over the last couple of years.