Bri Bro

Take the blue wire off and connect that terminal on the alternator to switched power (see on edit comment below). Adding an in-line fuse is always a good idea. Start the car and you should see around 14V on the gauge.

On edit: Should have a 68 Ohm, 5 watt resistor in-line with the 12VDC going to the terminal on the alternator. The factory setup has this resistor in parallel with the alt warning light. So if the bulb burns out, there is still current flow through the 68 ohm resistor.

Bri Bro

Got power back for a couple of minutes, I can't tell if the alarm control supplies power or ground to the blue wire. If power doesn't work, try ground. Again, a fuse is a good idea.

David Floyd

Switched power, dash gauge still below 12

I don't have an inline fuse at the moment, will it be ok to try ground without one ?

Bri Bro

I looked at my alarm bypass notes and it looks like the blue wire should be switched 12V. To bypass the alarm, you connect 7 to 8 and 1 to 4 on the alarm unit. What is the battery voltage with the car off and the car running with the blue wire connected to switched power?

Pin 5 - Alarm switch ...Yellow
Pin 3 - Ground.............Brown
Pin 7 - To gauge panel, charge control light...Yellow/red
Pin 2 - Interior light... Brown/Yellow
Pin 8 - To alternator D+...Blue
Pin 1 - To ignition switch...Black/White
Pin 4 - To DME relay... Green
Pin 6 - To Engine cover alarm switch... Brown/black

David Floyd

Ok.......... now she won't run at all, turns over, tries to fire up and as I let go of the key........ dead, this is with stock wiring configuration.

I used the switched power at the test port, which is also the power for my MAF.

Did I kill the MAF now ????????

Do all cars have alarms???? if they do, never knew I had one.

Bri Bro

If you don't have an alarm, the blue wire just goes to the gauge warning light. This applies 12VDC on the wire through the light bulb and a resistor. If you have an alarm, the blue wire goes to it and the alarm grounds out this wire and stops the alternator if it is active. Just check the 12V at the test port, it is fused.

David Floyd

With the key on, + testport to alternator case reads 393.3 mv

What would cause the car not to start now after running with the alternator wired to the testport ?

Bri Bro

That should be reading 12V. Sounds like something is shorted to ground. Did you check the fuse?

David Floyd

Fuse 17 was blown, replaced and car runs again

12.2 v while running test port to alternator case

and by the way, Brian I do really appreciate the time you have spent with me today

David Floyd

12.68 off

12.23 running

in stock wiring config

Bri Bro

Glad to try and give you a hand anytime Dave!!

I suspect that the voltage at the blue wire is the problem since the alt tests OK. I need to check some voltages on my car and let you know what they should be with ignition on/off.

David Floyd

Where does that blue wire run to ?

Best I remember when I installed the Iceshark cables some 5-6 years ago, the original blue wire is reused, I just don't remember where it started, I could just run a new wire.

ehall

so it was the fuse? Cool! Glad you guys got it fixed.

Techno Duck

The blue wire is the field wire, it basically senses the electrical load on the car and tells the alternator to up its output. Im pretty sure the other end of the wire is at the 2-pin connector on the firewall..right by the brake booster. The other wire on said connector is the big red one for ignition switch / starter solenoid.

David Floyd

Not fixed, blew the fuse today

Thanks Techno