OMG Yes, another oil thread. Won't they ever end???
Lot of us are so used to running Mobil 1 and think it's God's gift to motor's longevity may think twice.
The 951 I bought from a friend of a friend is a die hard M-1 fan. I even think his John Deere runs on M-1. Supposedly the 951 had no oil leaks. Wrong!!! Got it home and long and behold a long drip line running the whole front of the power steering rack. CRAP!
Well, after reviewing and listening to Charles from LN Engineering I decided to try his plan on recommendation of dino oil in older cars. Buying a case of Brad Penn 20-50 I finally did the change. Took it out yesterday and drove it hard for over an hour. The pressure was above 4 bar under throttle and idiled at 2 plus bar. Temp was just above 1 tick on the gauge. It was an 80+ degree day too.
Parked it in a new area of the shop so I could see if there were any new or continued spits or oil. This morning after 2 cups of coffee I wondered to the shop and to my surprise... no oil drips!!!

Mobil 1 can kiss my hairy ***!!!

 

good job

 

I used to run Mobil 1, but then politics got involved with the company, and their products changed (not to the good). Switched to Shell regular 20w-50 and the car just loves it...

Never had a leak with Mobil 1, so i can't really say from experience that Mobil 1 made my car leak...

 

fwiw I've used dino 20w-50 in all my 944s and always have perfect oil pressure\no leaks.

 

I use 20w-50 and my oil pan gaskets leak, It's all Valvolines fault for my OPG leaking!

 

Out of curiosity, are you running VR1? I was planning on switching from M1 to VR1 next oil change, but not because of oil leaks.

I've never even heard of Brad Penn oil. Is this oil normally carried at any of the major chains? If Lubrication Engineers had a 20w-50, I'd run it.

 

You never mention what weight the synthetic was.

If a lighter weight oil, that explains why a thicker oil leaks less.
Even the same weigh oil in synthetic is lighter and will flow more readily - any leak will leak more with a synthetic.

Has nothing to do with brand.

 

It was I think 15-50 or 20 50. I actually talked to the previous owner last night and he knew it was a 50w M-1.
Brad Penn is a racing oil that has a higher level of ZDDP then most other racing oils. Using their 20w-50. Engine actually runs more quiet then with M-1.
Also, I think Lindsey Racing recommendes Joe Gibbs Racing oil which like Brad Penn has higher levels of ZDDP. Usually oils with API ratings of SG, SH and SJ have the higher levels of ZDDP (zinc and phosphorous). Avoid oils with SL, SM ratings.
Use motorcycle oil, it's usually rated SG, SH or SJ, having more ZDDP if you can't find Brad Penn or JGs.
As far as your oil pan gasket leaking, try duct tape! LOL

 

Quote Cnavarro
As far as the VR-1, their marketing staff who answer the emails are full of it. The normal VR-1 API SM isn't good for us anymore - I have had a customer have a failure with this oil as late as a few weeks ago. He was unaware of a formulation change and had been working off old stock in his shop. The new VR-1 according to its MSDS shows ~800ppm

 

I blame M1 for my OPG leak as well, Darwin.

Bastages.

 

Nah, it's Valvoline Max life. With how the OPG leaks I don't want to waste anything expensive...

 

So the new VR1 is no longer acceptable? Is there a 20w-50 conventional available off-the-shelf that is any good? I got sick of jumping through hoops to get LE - I don't want to go down that road again. Shipping oil gets expensive and if I'm going conventional, it needs to be cost effective.

I still have my doubts that ZDDP changes are directly related to engine failures. It's not like zinc dithiophosphate is the only anti-wear additive. I've found no definitive proof - only speculation and assumptions.

 

Go to www.lnengineering.com and it will give you a clearer picture about oil and wear rates. Newer oil formulas have more calcium vs. ZDDP. Charles at LN will even analyze your oil and let you know what you need to do.

Wonder why newer cars need their oil changed in longer intervals? Because it was discovered that oil doesn't reach it peak until higher mileage rates then the 3000 we've all been told to use as a rule of thumb. Of course it depends on your driving habits/conditions too.

 

How does that Shell oil you're using compare to the V VR1?

 

if you read the factory 944 owners manual there is a long winded chart about being able to change your oil like every 10k miles unless you drive in a dirty area, drive alot, drive hard, drive slow, drive in inclimate weather, drive in rain, etc etc etc...no big news there. I run 20w50 castrol NON-synthetic and my car doesnt leak and i have 4.5bar after 1 hour on the track, 6500rpm repeatedly each lap and idles at 2.5-3bar after pulling back into the pits.

if you want to run synthetic you must change all your seals....unless you like leaks in most cases.