gregeast

Just so I'm clear: There is no hole in the V1 close to the fenderwell, so I'm putting the zip screw through the V1 (making my own hole) and then going into the horizontal tab on the bottom of the fender where the batwing had the bolt?

CPR

Greg,
Yes...OR you can pilot a single new hole and thru bolt-it.

I abandoned the pre-drill in this area, because not all of the cars were lining up exactly the same. It seems as if time, environmental conditions..or whatever makes the outside edges just a wee bit different.

It was easier for most to simply attach along the entire front...then slightly push/pull the extreme lip edge to match perfectly and run a zip up. Also make it a cinch to remove.

I will be more than happy to provide some new thru-bolts at no cost if you need them. Let me know.

PATRICK

gregeast

Oh no worries at all, I just wanted to confirm that's what the zips were for.

Thx.

Keithr726

Thanks again for putting this together Patrick, I look forward to seeing more good products!

CPR

Keith,
One question...did the added clearance make a difference in your driveway? I recall yours being quite the obstacle.

mtnman82

I've actually scraped twice in the past 2 days and never scraped anywhere before. Both times coming out of parking lots onto a main road and I was barely moving. I can feel a little roughness underneath - nothing bad at all, but the top still looks new . The front lip of the splitter is 6" off the ground. I guess I'm going to have to start remebering these parking lots ... Very, very happy with this splitter!

ausgeflippt951

Mine was received yesterday -- but I'm in San Francisco and can't install it yet!

I'm super stoked. Thank you, Patrick!

RolexNJ

Damn that looks sharp. How long did that take to install?

Keithr726

No scraping, I need to try again with a passenger. Once my wheels go on the ride height will be too high and I'll lower it.



Well come visit wine country

Roughly half hour but that includes drilling holes for the under trays that I didn't install, I wanted to drive .

cb951

I received the hardware today (priority mail). Thanks for sending it yet again. It's the only hardware package I've received. (Nothing through UPS.)

Just to be sure --
Is there no hardware for the rear of the splitter, where it attaches to the plastic undertray? If not, I can fab something.

Thanks.

Wipeout

The new splitter is a lot more rigid than what you're replacing. I'm not sure that hardware is needed for that area.

Wipeout

Thought I'd share a photo, too.

cb951

I would expect, if I'm not mistaken, that subjected to the heat of the engine, it might start to sag over time. I'd rather be safe than sorry. No need to risk tearing it (or the front fascia) off while backing up over a gravel lot, pothole, or some other uneven pavement.

ehall

That's not a legit worry. It will be fine. The stock batwing doesn't droop, and a huge number of folks don't have the belly tray. If you're worried, drill a few holes and match then up to the belly tray. I keep my stock piece connected with zip ties, so that I can get it off faster.

CPR

Chris,
There should an extra 1 or 2 zip screws in your pack. I included these so that those who wished to attach but did not have existing attachment points could simply run a zip up through the splitter to the OEM plastic undertray.

I have had mine in place w/o any rear attachment for 2 months now and have had no issues, although it is more for ease of swapping proto units back and forth for trials. When it is all said and done, I will run 1 or 2 zips through just for peace of mind, although I am still not convinced it is necessary.