Should I farm it out to a shop? Any good shops/ people in the northeast that anyone would reccomend. Any definate mods that I should do while the engine is out. I'm going to race the car and I'm thinking I can commit about 3-5k to the rebuild....

 

Get the machine work done by someone with the proper sunnen machine (or chris white) but putting it together is very easy as long as you have the factory manuals me (pm me if you dont) a 0-10 ftlbs \ 0-200 ft lb torque wrench, and the right assembly lube.

 

It can't hurt to talk to Chris White who is a sponsor on here. I would also PM Ski, who has a wealth of information. Maybe he can chime in and give you some direction too.

 

I'll be looking for a good upstate ny shop in the spring for a rebuild.

 

www.944enhancement.com

 

Chris White as previously listed, Scott Gomes - Under Pressure Performance, or David McGrath(evil944t) at Custom Engineered Performance. All of the above have great knowledge, piston access, and the experience to set the right tolerance for cylinder wall/piston clearance; be it pistons in stock reconditioned bores or MID sleeves.

Lots of different mods to do while an engine is out, just depends on intened use and the depth of the wallet. Head refresh to start with. Street car, I'd just balance things(JMHO) like rod/piston combo, clutch package/flywheel, and have the crank polished while it's out. Some track duty - cross or perp drill #2 and #3 rod journals and maybe a baffle door mod for the oil pan. Countless others that you can do but starting with a good "base of operations" is key.

$3k will get you a good short block complete, although some prices have gone up, $5k should fit your needs complete, in a crate to you, might even fit a clutch package in there as well.

 

Looks like this topic has been well handled. I agree.

 

Ski:

Could you break down what you think the cost might be for a shop to do this:

- balance rotating parts
- hot tank block
- clean up the bores (with the right tools)
- polish crank
- install new main bearings, crank, and oil pump onto block (i.e. bolt down the girdle)
- install new rod bearings, rods, and pistons

It seems like those are the most critical parts to install properly and I'd rather have a pro do it.

Thanks

 

I think he did...You're basically looking for the cost of an assembled short block?

Most competent (experienced) home wrenchers, with the tools and manuals, can assemble the short block if you have had a competent machine shop do the block / head work. . If you can remove the motor and strip it down then you can probably put it back together. If you get stuck then these guys can help...they helped me when I rebuilt mine 4 or 5 years ago. Mother, does time fly!

 

In the process of having a stock (pretty much)rebuild myself. I opted to save cost of new pistons and going w/ swain coating of the skirts and tops. I plan to try improve weak points like pick up tube w/ lindey's kit, and possibly IJ crank scraper to help w/ rod bearing failure.

Steve

 

What good does polishing the crank do ?

 

It will make you go blind and then role over and go to sleep...so I hear. See also spanking the monkey.


On less than a race engine, polishing the crank is a waste of money. Having it checked for cracks, and proper tolerances is quite important, however.

 

for $50, the local guy checks it and polishes it. Spare 2.5L before it went into the oil bath.

 

Set your goalsl first, then decide on how to do it and how much it'll cost. If you plan on racing the car, many things will be addressed differently than a plain street car. Every racing class has rules, so your build will be geared to follow the rules.
Save yourself lots of time, money and headaches. Talk to Chris White before making a final decision.

 

Classic -- or so I hear.......