Making larger turbos fit
06-21-2008, 02:05 PM
#16
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I would strongly suggest attempting to grind the head of the bolt until there's just enough that you can still tighten it with a wrench. Others have had ok results leaving it out but I have blown through way too many turbos to take any risks. That bolt should fit fine once shaved down with the turbo clocked.
As far as the lower gasket/o-ring, I would use either the o-ring or the paper gasket but not both. Just use whichever one fits best. If you want to use both it will probably be fine, but again I prefer to have less material(potential for leak) so I use one or the other. Don't worry too much about it leaking as it is just a gravity drain once it leaves the turbo and drops back into the pan. With everything in good order, this should never see any significant pressure.
As far as the lower gasket/o-ring, I would use either the o-ring or the paper gasket but not both. Just use whichever one fits best. If you want to use both it will probably be fine, but again I prefer to have less material(potential for leak) so I use one or the other. Don't worry too much about it leaking as it is just a gravity drain once it leaves the turbo and drops back into the pan. With everything in good order, this should never see any significant pressure.
I've got the turbo test fit, turbo mounting bolts are in, downpipe to exhaust fits ok, but the crossover is a good 1/2" from lining up as seen in the pic below. I loosened the header-crossover bolts, but the wastegate has the crossover fairly well stiff. I'd hate to loosen the WG connection due to the crush donut not being reusable.
Should I force the crossover to line up with the turbo? Seems like it would be an awful lot of torque yanking on the turbo itself.
06-21-2008, 02:13 PM
#17
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Also and you may already be way beyond this (I am coming in late her)
I actually drilled the holes in the mount to accommodate larger bolts. I then used a nice piece of all thread on the long side and an allen bolt on the short side. It has made changing turbos on this thing a snap. Yje all thread (in essence a stud) makes things much easier b/c you will no longer have to mess with the steering at all, just has a nut instead of a long bolt to deal with.
as fort the adaptor you may be able to eliminate this too?? unless this is a ball bearing center section.
I actually drilled the holes in the mount to accommodate larger bolts. I then used a nice piece of all thread on the long side and an allen bolt on the short side. It has made changing turbos on this thing a snap. Yje all thread (in essence a stud) makes things much easier b/c you will no longer have to mess with the steering at all, just has a nut instead of a long bolt to deal with.
as fort the adaptor you may be able to eliminate this too?? unless this is a ball bearing center section.
06-21-2008, 02:27 PM
#19
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This is all covered in my Gt series turbo Phase I, II, and II
I ran into all these problems.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/388143-duall-bb-gt30-custom-install-phase-i-finished-phase-ii.html
That mount with what you have pictured with the O-ring and gasket will Leak.
You will certainly have to cut and weld the up-pipe to make it fit. - maybe not looking closer to picture.
changing the throttle spring mount is a must. The pics below show a way to get the absolute most clearance. (Moves mount completety to the side of manifold clearing no bolts or brackets on the bottom altogether with a little bit of grinding room.)
I ran into all these problems.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/388143-duall-bb-gt30-custom-install-phase-i-finished-phase-ii.html
That mount with what you have pictured with the O-ring and gasket will Leak.
You will certainly have to cut and weld the up-pipe to make it fit. - maybe not looking closer to picture.
changing the throttle spring mount is a must. The pics below show a way to get the absolute most clearance. (Moves mount completety to the side of manifold clearing no bolts or brackets on the bottom altogether with a little bit of grinding room.)
Last edited by 95ONE; 06-21-2008 at 07:54 PM.
06-21-2008, 03:09 PM
#20
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95ONE, I guess it depends on the turbo. Neither my Huntley, nor my Vitesse (Stage 5) turbo leaked with the o-ring/gasket combo, and I was able to install both without reconfiguring the return spring bracket. If the turbo were 1 or 2mm bigger in diameter, the return spring bracket wouldn't have fit.
06-21-2008, 03:18 PM
#21
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[QUOTE=shiners780;5532578]The bottom bolt that attaches the compressor housing hits the turbo mount, preventing proper alignment of the turbo on the mount. Is it ok to leave that one bolt out? If so, what do I plug the hole with since it goes right through to the inside of the housing?
Jim,
You should be able to rotate the compressor so this bolt you are reffering to sits in a little receess underneth the mount next to the long allen head that holds the turbo on.You just have to clock the comp housing just right and it will fit in the little "nook"
Dont run the paper gasket on top of the adaptor plate.
Tim
Jim,
You should be able to rotate the compressor so this bolt you are reffering to sits in a little receess underneth the mount next to the long allen head that holds the turbo on.You just have to clock the comp housing just right and it will fit in the little "nook"
Dont run the paper gasket on top of the adaptor plate.
Tim
06-21-2008, 03:21 PM
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95ONE, I guess it depends on the turbo. Neither my Huntley, nor my Vitesse (Stage 5) turbo leaked with the o-ring/gasket combo, and I was able to install both without reconfiguring the return spring bracket. If the turbo were 1 or 2mm bigger in diameter, the return spring bracket wouldn't have fit.
I would agree with Tom here.We havent had them leak.The original factory o-ring does a great job of sealing the factory turbo and the adapto plate has a smaller o-ring which does a geat job of sealing the aftermarket turbo.
Tim
06-21-2008, 03:23 PM
#23
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No problems here, AC is deleted and alternator lowered already. At least that is one thing I don't have to worry about.
Cool, thanks!
That bolt had to go. The compressor housing is right up against the turbo mount with it gone, with the turbo mount bolts fastened. Even clocking the comp housing wasn't giving me enough clearance, without clocking it to a point which caused alignment issues with the pipe connections.
I've got the turbo test fit, turbo mounting bolts are in, downpipe to exhaust fits ok, but the crossover is a good 1/2" from lining up as seen in the pic below. I loosened the header-crossover bolts, but the wastegate has the crossover fairly well stiff. I'd hate to loosen the WG connection due to the crush donut not being reusable.
Should I force the crossover to line up with the turbo? Seems like it would be an awful lot of torque yanking on the turbo itself.
Cool, thanks!
That bolt had to go. The compressor housing is right up against the turbo mount with it gone, with the turbo mount bolts fastened. Even clocking the comp housing wasn't giving me enough clearance, without clocking it to a point which caused alignment issues with the pipe connections.
I've got the turbo test fit, turbo mounting bolts are in, downpipe to exhaust fits ok, but the crossover is a good 1/2" from lining up as seen in the pic below. I loosened the header-crossover bolts, but the wastegate has the crossover fairly well stiff. I'd hate to loosen the WG connection due to the crush donut not being reusable.
Should I force the crossover to line up with the turbo? Seems like it would be an awful lot of torque yanking on the turbo itself.
I wouldnt force it.I would loosen all the bolts from the headers to the wastegate to the turbo to get the crossover to line up with the hotside and then re-tighten everything.It is a pain in the *** but it shouldnt take too much time to do it since you are just loosening things and not competely removing them.
Tim
06-21-2008, 03:26 PM
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This is all covered in my Gt series turbo Phase I, II, and II
I ran into all these problems.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=388143
That mount with what you have pictured with the O-ring and gasket will Leak.
You will certainly have to cut and weld the up-pipe to make it fit.
changing the throttle spring mount is a must. The pics below show a way to get the absolute most clearance. (Moves mount completety to the side of manifold clearing no bolts or brackets on the bottom altogether with a little bit of grinding room.)
I ran into all these problems.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=388143
That mount with what you have pictured with the O-ring and gasket will Leak.
You will certainly have to cut and weld the up-pipe to make it fit.
changing the throttle spring mount is a must. The pics below show a way to get the absolute most clearance. (Moves mount completety to the side of manifold clearing no bolts or brackets on the bottom altogether with a little bit of grinding room.)
He will not have to do all the mods you did because A. the adaptor is not as tall as the adaptor you are using. B. he is using a TO4B compressor housing which is 1" smaller diameter then the E housing which you have.
And trust me I am familair with install the GT30R and GT35R since we have been among the few companies that have offered that upgrade for many years for the 944 turbo.
06-21-2008, 03:30 PM
#25
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I wouldnt force it.I would loosen all the bolts from the headers to the wastegate to the turbo to get the crossover to line up with the hotside and then re-tighten everything.It is a pain in the *** but it shouldnt take too much time to do it since you are just loosening things and not competely removing them.
Tim
Tim
06-21-2008, 03:30 PM
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apologize for being unclear. I meant.... From viewing his picture with the paper gasket on the o-ring. It will leak.
As you stated right after this post!
I meant nothing bad about your adaptor!
BUT..... I don't see with however much fiddling he does with the exhaust up-pipe, that he is ever going to get that 1/4" difference to line up.
EDIT: Looking closer atthe picture, the height seems fine. I think he can do it if he loosens ALL bolts to head. Aligns, and tightens slowly from there.
Last edited by 95ONE; 06-21-2008 at 07:56 PM.
06-21-2008, 03:34 PM
#27
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apologize for being unclear. I meant.... From viewing his picture with the paper gasket on the o-ring. It will leak.
As you stated right after this post!
I meant nothing bad about your adaptor!
BUT..... I don't see with however much fiddling he does with the exhaust up-pipe, that he is ever going to get that 1/4" difference to line up. I hope he can.
As you stated right after this post!
I meant nothing bad about your adaptor!
BUT..... I don't see with however much fiddling he does with the exhaust up-pipe, that he is ever going to get that 1/4" difference to line up. I hope he can.
Tiim
06-21-2008, 05:11 PM
#28
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OK, first things first. When I don't use the 1/4" thick adapter, the bolt on the compressor housing clears the mount fine. Also, the crossover lines up closer than it does with the adapter (not close, but closerER). So...idea compliments of Vic, I made a shim out of sheet aluminum which completely covers the factory o-ring. Basically serves the same purpose as the thicker adapter, but without any of the clearance issues. Instead of using the o-ring on the turbo side, I would use the paper gasket as shown in the pic.
So I would use the factory o-ring in the mount recess, then the shim to cover that factory o-ring, then the paper gasket to seal the shim/turbo.
Thoughts?
So I would use the factory o-ring in the mount recess, then the shim to cover that factory o-ring, then the paper gasket to seal the shim/turbo.
Thoughts?
06-21-2008, 05:23 PM
#29
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As already mentioned, get all the exhaust bits lined up correctly and tighten. Don't pry anything into place. I busted several bolts in my exhaust when my rebuilt turbo didn't line up perfectly the first 3 times. I broke bolts at the header to xover connection and busted the flange off of the xover to turbo connection.
Apparently the expansion of the exhaust plumbing when it gets hot is enough to brake even the strongest bolts.
Apparently the expansion of the exhaust plumbing when it gets hot is enough to brake even the strongest bolts.
06-21-2008, 07:53 PM
#30
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OK, first things first. When I don't use the 1/4" thick adapter, the bolt on the compressor housing clears the mount fine. Also, the crossover lines up closer than it does with the adapter (not close, but closerER). So...idea compliments of Vic, I made a shim out of sheet aluminum which completely covers the factory o-ring. Basically serves the same purpose as the thicker adapter, but without any of the clearance issues. Instead of using the o-ring on the turbo side, I would use the paper gasket as shown in the pic.
So I would use the factory o-ring in the mount recess, then the shim to cover that factory o-ring, then the paper gasket to seal the shim/turbo.
Thoughts?
So I would use the factory o-ring in the mount recess, then the shim to cover that factory o-ring, then the paper gasket to seal the shim/turbo.
Thoughts?
Even with my adapter.