whats the best 951 strut brace
#31
#32
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I don't see how the strut brace at the bottom does anything at all.
Don't forget the crossmember acts as a brace down there already and the casterblocks are bolted the frame rails. Not much flexing down there and not like the limited support of the strut tops. I might be different if you could create a X along with the strock crossmember, but that is not going to happen given the exhaust and oil pan locations.
Don't forget the crossmember acts as a brace down there already and the casterblocks are bolted the frame rails. Not much flexing down there and not like the limited support of the strut tops. I might be different if you could create a X along with the strock crossmember, but that is not going to happen given the exhaust and oil pan locations.
#33
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#34
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#35
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#36
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I don't see how the strut brace at the bottom does anything at all.
Don't forget the crossmember acts as a brace down there already and the casterblocks are bolted the frame rails. Not much flexing down there and not like the limited support of the strut tops. I might be different if you could create a X along with the strock crossmember, but that is not going to happen given the exhaust and oil pan locations.
Don't forget the crossmember acts as a brace down there already and the casterblocks are bolted the frame rails. Not much flexing down there and not like the limited support of the strut tops. I might be different if you could create a X along with the strock crossmember, but that is not going to happen given the exhaust and oil pan locations.
Look at it as a U. The front is supported by the bottom of the "U" (which would be the crossmember)where it's connected together however there is little support between the top part of the "U" where the castor blocks are. With a hard suspension, the forces cause the top of this "U"(between the castor blocks) to widen or shrink while the bottom(crossmember) stays supported.
The same thing can be said for the strut towers and why a brace helps there. There is some support already from the inner fenders and firewall but it still flexes and twists. Connecting a bar across to the other side lessens the flex side to side but does littles for the twisting action that will still take place. I agree as you stated a X brace would greatly lessen the twisting involved however that is much more work and not very practical.
#38
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I have it in my head and have seen it on paper but I'll attempt to make sense of it verbally.
Look at it as a U. The front is supported by the bottom of the "U" (which would be the crossmember)where it's connected together however there is little support between the top part of the "U" where the castor blocks are. With a hard suspension, the forces cause the top of this "U"(between the castor blocks) to widen or shrink while the bottom(crossmember) stays supported.
Look at it as a U. The front is supported by the bottom of the "U" (which would be the crossmember)where it's connected together however there is little support between the top part of the "U" where the castor blocks are. With a hard suspension, the forces cause the top of this "U"(between the castor blocks) to widen or shrink while the bottom(crossmember) stays supported.
So again it may help at tiny bit, but even on a race car not enough to notice.
#39
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Joe, you'll notice that caster mount bar under braking. When you're hard on th brakes, and the car is trying to stop, you create a pretty large moment from the subframe (front control arm mount) to the tire's contact patch.
I pull over a G braking - my car weighs 3250... that's a lot of force pushing in on each caster mount. The unibody definately flexes some. And that flex will cause a reduction in toe-in. If you have about zero toe-in, it can even give you tow out.
I have a question about the factory turbo cup bar - is it solid or hollow? Can someone measure it up for me? (From the pictures it looks like it might be 1/2" x 3/4") I asume it's steel?
I pull over a G braking - my car weighs 3250... that's a lot of force pushing in on each caster mount. The unibody definately flexes some. And that flex will cause a reduction in toe-in. If you have about zero toe-in, it can even give you tow out.
I have a question about the factory turbo cup bar - is it solid or hollow? Can someone measure it up for me? (From the pictures it looks like it might be 1/2" x 3/4") I asume it's steel?
#40
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I keep looking for a good pic of a mounted Weltmeister bar with the tall mounts. I still don't know if it will prevent using camber plates or not. Why did they make the strut mounts so tall? I bought one used and am waiting until my butt gets into gear and finishes the other car to install it. It's built well but so different from the other types.
#43
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The whole LR/CEP issue was due to the fact that LR bought a CEP engine, then all of the sudden had extremely similar parts in their "new parts" portion of their site.
To me that is a pretty different situation.
-Darwin
#44
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I keep looking for a good pic of a mounted Weltmeister bar with the tall mounts. I still don't know if it will prevent using camber plates or not. Why did they make the strut mounts so tall? I bought one used and am waiting until my butt gets into gear and finishes the other car to install it. It's built well but so different from the other types.
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I don't have a good picture showing the plate however.