Bryans951

Ok, I did the jumper wires for the DME relay and swaped the connections for the speed and reference sensor. Still no spark or tach movement. Is there a way to test the KLR and DME to see if they are bad? Is there any where else I should be looking while I wait for a spare computer to swap?

Bryans951

This just keeps getting better. I just noticed a nice oil leak coming down the back side of the block. My excitement is fading fast!!

porshhhh951

ouch..

keep the faith

Josh B

Hey Bryan - can you tell if it is coming from the back of the balance shaft housing or the bottom of the turbo? I tested out those boxes that I have and the DME is good but the KLR box is not...

-Josh

Bryans951

Once I noticed the oil was coming from the back side of the pan, I quit looking before I did something supid. I won't be able to look again until Saturday. If I could use the DME to test mine, it would be great. I could always bypass the KLR to see which one was bad. Do you think you could get it shipped out tomorrow? Just let me know what shipping is. Do you still have my address? I'll be in Marietta next week so I can bring it back then unless you need it sooner. Thanks

bill4brickwork

hi iv'e a 86 turbo very ill. did you lift the engine from above and replace from above thanks

Rob

Have you tried checking the speed and reference sensors with an ohm meter?

There is a link in this thread to download the DME and KLR test plan that should help you out.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...highlight=test

Josh B

$6.52 and heading your way via UPS.

Bryans951

Cool. paypal sent.

cruise98

Oil leak!@#$&. Be sure it is not overfilled.

Any idea where it is coming from? If it is on the passenger side at the back, it is probably the rear cam tower seal. That thing is a rubberized cork piece of crap.

Bryans951

Yippee!!! It finally runs yippee!!

I think I finally figured it out. Swapped DME nothing. Switched stuff and bypassed stuff and still nothing. Finally crawled under the dash to see if the ignition switch was messed up. I noticed a connector that looks like the ones on the instrument cluster. Took the cluster out and put on the connector that would fit. It cranked right up. Still no tach. Swapped the second connector, no start. Put it back, started again. Lesson: MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTORS ARE HOOKED UP CORRECTLY!!!!

Oil leak: Now its leaks. 2 are because I'm an idiot. The drain plug was loose and now the oil cooler connections need to be tightened. Cleaned up the leak on the back side of the engine. We'll wait to see if it comes back.

Also discover that the oil pressure sender was wired backwards. Tach still doesn't work. Going to switch it out as soon as the battery charges up again. And I'm going to see if my old DME is still good.

I'm happy it started, but I'm pissed I wasted 3 evenings on an extra connection on the instrument panel.

Back to work.

Bryans951

Switched the DME back to my old one and it actually runs better. May idle a little fast, but I can't tell right now. Swapped the cluster, and still no tach movement. Anyone have any suggestions on where to look.

Josh B

Sounds to me like the wire isn't hooked up coming into the footwell off the engine harness? Where did you get the engine harness - is the same as you were using before?

Your old DME box is working better because the one I sent you had a chip in it for a MAF. You can just drop it off at the house if you like when you are back in town next week.

Bryans951

Had to get new one because old harness was toast. What does the connector look like?

Josh B

Ok - on 87 and later cars there was a flat connector with 5 wires going into it I think. On the 86 cars there is a square red connector with 4 wires going into it. The tach wire run through that connector. On this car we just got running we had to make an adapter harness to go between those connectors as we were using an early harness on a late car.