3 1/2 years later...
#18
Burning Brakes
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Well, I finally got most everything finished up this past weekend. Surprisingly, my battery still worked. I bleed the coolant, and put in 7 quarts of oil. The filter hole closest to the block hardly took any oil at all, so I put all 7 quarts in the pan. Pulled the DME and fuel fuse, and cranked it over a few times until the oil pressure gauge pegged out over 5. Then I installed the DME, fuel fuse, and spark plugs and tried to crank it. After fixing a fuel leak, it still doesn't start.
At this point, I'm not sure where to start. I did notice that the tach never moved. I'm pretty sure it getting fuel. After a while, I could barely smell gas at the exhaust.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
At this point, I'm not sure where to start. I did notice that the tach never moved. I'm pretty sure it getting fuel. After a while, I could barely smell gas at the exhaust.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
Last edited by Bryans951; 07-07-2008 at 09:51 AM.
#19
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Are you getting spark? Correct fuel pressure? The computers were getting wet regularly before you fixed the battery box, so it is possible they are not working now. Have you double checked the wiring harness and the connections?
#20
Burning Brakes
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I don't think I'm getting a spark. What's the simplest way to check? I know I've got fuel pressure, because the rail leaked pretty badly at first. I just don't know how much. I tried to double check everything as I went, but I need to go back over everything again. Bad computers are a possibility. Got a spare set I could use to test?
#21
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Had a car we were reviving over the weekend that we went through a lot of trouble shooting on so I am full or possibilities. I would pick up one of those test lights from the auto store that you an plug into a plug wire to test for spark. Also would be good to pick up a noid light to make sure you are getting injectors pulse.
Our troubles included bad fuel pump, bad ref sensors or at least not spaced right, two bad engine harnesses at the injector wires, possible bad DME and KLR, possible bad coil. We got her running on Sunday though
Our troubles included bad fuel pump, bad ref sensors or at least not spaced right, two bad engine harnesses at the injector wires, possible bad DME and KLR, possible bad coil. We got her running on Sunday though
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#24
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Where was the rail leaking? My homemade custom fuel lines were OK I hope! Wish i had been there to help out.
Getting a noid light is a good idea. Also, the engine harness was missing the labels for the DG and BG locations, so I just traced the wires with a meter. I could have easily crossed them though. The ring gear to sensor height was set before I installed the bellhousing, so that is OK. You have new sensors too IIRC.
Have you checked the wiring thoroughly? You have replaced the entire harness, so maybe the coil or something else did not get reconnected.
If it comes down to the DME/KLR being suspect, you can bridge the KLR and substitute a good DME to check. If we use mine, we will have to open them up and swap the chips, since mine has the VR board and is setup for the MAF. This is doable, but just a pain. Based on their history, they are my main suspect, but you should check everything else first. Congratulations, you are almost there.
Getting a noid light is a good idea. Also, the engine harness was missing the labels for the DG and BG locations, so I just traced the wires with a meter. I could have easily crossed them though. The ring gear to sensor height was set before I installed the bellhousing, so that is OK. You have new sensors too IIRC.
Have you checked the wiring thoroughly? You have replaced the entire harness, so maybe the coil or something else did not get reconnected.
If it comes down to the DME/KLR being suspect, you can bridge the KLR and substitute a good DME to check. If we use mine, we will have to open them up and swap the chips, since mine has the VR board and is setup for the MAF. This is doable, but just a pain. Based on their history, they are my main suspect, but you should check everything else first. Congratulations, you are almost there.
#25
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I might have a spare set of engine computer boxes that are good - just need to check them out on this car that we got running. Could ship them to you for a nominal hourly rental rate - say $10? Haha - just kidding. If you covered shipping I could get them over to you pretty quick.
#26
Burning Brakes
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The custom lines work great. The nut at the end of the rail wasn't tight. After a few turns, no more leak. Confirmed no spark. I'm going to try to bypass the KLR and see what happens.
Josh, I may take you up on that. Let me do some more testing before we go through that.
Josh, I may take you up on that. Let me do some more testing before we go through that.
Where was the rail leaking? My homemade custom fuel lines were OK I hope! Wish i had been there to help out.
Getting a noid light is a good idea. Also, the engine harness was missing the labels for the DG and BG locations, so I just traced the wires with a meter. I could have easily crossed them though. The ring gear to sensor height was set before I installed the bellhousing, so that is OK. You have new sensors too IIRC.
Have you checked the wiring thoroughly? You have replaced the entire harness, so maybe the coil or something else did not get reconnected.
If it comes down to the DME/KLR being suspect, you can bridge the KLR and substitute a good DME to check. If we use mine, we will have to open them up and swap the chips, since mine has the VR board and is setup for the MAF. This is doable, but just a pain. Based on their history, they are my main suspect, but you should check everything else first. Congratulations, you are almost there.
Getting a noid light is a good idea. Also, the engine harness was missing the labels for the DG and BG locations, so I just traced the wires with a meter. I could have easily crossed them though. The ring gear to sensor height was set before I installed the bellhousing, so that is OK. You have new sensors too IIRC.
Have you checked the wiring thoroughly? You have replaced the entire harness, so maybe the coil or something else did not get reconnected.
If it comes down to the DME/KLR being suspect, you can bridge the KLR and substitute a good DME to check. If we use mine, we will have to open them up and swap the chips, since mine has the VR board and is setup for the MAF. This is doable, but just a pain. Based on their history, they are my main suspect, but you should check everything else first. Congratulations, you are almost there.
#27
Burning Brakes
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Confirmed power to both computers and the DME harness connector. Bypassed KLR, but still no start or tach movement. Will it hurt anything to swap the connections on the speed and reference sensors?
#29
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Josh,
Do you think you could ship those so I could test them this weekend?
Keith,
Looks like I'll be spending yet another weekend working on the car. Your more than welcome to come up.
Do you think you could ship those so I could test them this weekend?
Keith,
Looks like I'll be spending yet another weekend working on the car. Your more than welcome to come up.
#30
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Hey Bryan - washed this car last night and discovered that there must a severe leak in the battery tray - good chance those computers are no good. I'll test them out - hopefully this evening and get back with you though.....