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Moton installation

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Old 06-02-2008, 08:43 AM
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disasterman
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Default Moton installation

Looking for the best place to route the lines through the chassis? Anyone with photos?

Also best place to mount reservoirs under the hood.

Help! I am on deadline.
Old 06-02-2008, 09:22 AM
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333pg333
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Here's a link to Eric's 968 install. Perhaps contact him?
http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=5552
Old 06-02-2008, 10:19 AM
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disasterman
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Thanks, though I can't seem to get to it via that site.
Old 06-02-2008, 11:11 AM
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Nurburger
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Jim,

Here's a link to some pictures of a Moton install on a 951 racer - the pictures don't show routing for the rears, though it does show good locations for the fronts...

http://rides.webshots.com/album/57684009RqNuVx
Old 06-02-2008, 01:07 PM
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RENEE_J
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Here is an Idea
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Old 06-02-2008, 01:16 PM
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Eric_k
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Patrick has outed me. So you don't need to register with 968forums, I'll add some details here. I found the reservoir would just fit thru the exisitng fuel/brake line opening on right side of the engine. I drilled another opening on the other side of the engine compartment to match. I mounted the canister under the lip of the fender. Alternatively, you can drill a slot on the edge of the camber plate, route the canister thru the top shock tower opening (with the shocks off) and leave the line going thru the slot. For the rears, I drilled a hole in the rear seat wells and mounted the canisters on the roll cage via brackets.

On a 951, thru the camber plate:


On my 968:


Old 06-02-2008, 01:17 PM
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disasterman
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I gues I need a 3" hole saw for the backs or mount under. Fronts I could cut the inner wheel house. Karl recommended mounting in the front wheel well. I will figure that out tonight. Photos to post before & after completed project.
Old 06-02-2008, 01:20 PM
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disasterman
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I was drafting my resonse as you were posting - now that helps! Beautiful install. Did you make the reservoir mounts?
Old 06-02-2008, 01:24 PM
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Eric_k
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2.5" hole saw should be big enough. Nothing funner than taking a hole saw to your car!

I couldn't find a bracket for my 1.75 cage so it is an 'adapted' version from one for 1.5 tubing. I got it with the shocks, used. Off-road truck places have these kind of brackets.
Old 06-02-2008, 02:10 PM
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eniac
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There is plenty of room in the front fender well behind the plastic liner however it would be difficult to access when adjustments are needed. Per E-Class rules, I assume your not able to delete any of the fuel vapor purge system? That would free up quite a bit of room if you could. I do like the idea of cutting a slot in the strut tower on the left side.

For the rear I see no other option but to cut holes. I have some hole saws but not sure if I have a 2.5" one. I'll check when I get home and give you a call before I head over.

I looked on Motons website and see that the 996, 997, and Boxter shocks come with quick disconnects, however for the 944, 993, and 964 it is only available as an option. I wonder why that is...
Old 06-02-2008, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by eniac
There is plenty of room in the front fender well behind the plastic liner however it would be difficult to access when adjustments are needed.
I attached the front canisters on the pieces of metal welded to the shell on which are ususally attached the PS cooler (right side) and nothing (left side). Adjustment is done via the openings in the liners.
Old 06-02-2008, 03:15 PM
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eniac
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Originally Posted by Thom
I attached the front canisters on the pieces of metal welded to the shell on which are ususally attached the PS cooler (right side) and nothing (left side). Adjustment is done via the openings in the liners.
Oh you mean through the openings to access the turn signals? That's not a bad idea. It would be a nice spot that would keep the canisters away from the engine heat.
Old 06-02-2008, 03:35 PM
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Yup, and routing the lines does not require drilling any holes anywhere.
Old 06-02-2008, 04:35 PM
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disasterman
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Default Next problem

Can't assemble until I get the next 10mm torsion bar from Racers edge to match the one shipped. I am calling around trying to find a shop to machine one of my originals. The camber plates are coming tomorrow, not anodized (no time). Can I run with no torsion bar and assemble later? What a pain though, might not be worth the trouble.
Old 06-03-2008, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by disasterman
Can't assemble until I get the next 10mm torsion bar from Racers edge to match the one shipped. I am calling around trying to find a shop to machine one of my originals. The camber plates are coming tomorrow, not anodized (no time). Can I run with no torsion bar and assemble later? What a pain though, might not be worth the trouble.
Correct, you do not need the torsion bars at all. The only reason you would put the 10mm machined ones in is to comply with the E-class rules. It would not be hard at all pulling it apart again to install the bars later. With all fresh racer's edge parts it should be half the time it took us the first time around to drop everything. It would not have to be completely taken out, just simply lowered enough to get the bars back in.


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