Is there a Job WORSE than pulling your OWN TEETH!?!
05-06-2008, 10:33 PM
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Is there a Job WORSE than pulling your OWN TEETH!?!
Well to answer the thread title yes there is and it comes in the form of removing your rear hatch glass to either reseal, fit a Lexan screen or embark on our new project which I have covered before and we’ll get back to later.
Before I embarked on the ridiculously time consuming and finger cutting epic of a challenge I used Rennlist and various other forums to try and find a good guide on how best to tackle the challenge and well as per usual Rennlist came up trumps and lead me to a document which ‘Porsche Doc’ has kindly written http://karl.wilen.us/images/944HatchReseal.doc
So off I went to the local DIY store to purchase a few bits and pieces as suggested in the links document above and set about the challenge.
But as always and as great as the methods used by others, just sometimes you discover a quicker and simpler way of doing things as I learnt along the way so I’m pleased to share with you all what I will nowl call ‘Remove the B45T4RD in 2 Hours’
Pelican Parts also has a great tutorial which details why the glass silicon seal starts to separate overtime and you can check this out here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ss_repair2.htm
So on with the task at hand and the below picture shows some of the tools I used most of which turned out to be absolute S41T:
Firstly after having removed the hatch from the car and removed the TRS spoiler I have fitted I used a sharp Stanley Knife to cut all of the excess black silicon sealer out from the top surface of the hatch:
As the pictures above illustrate in detail I worked my way around the hatch leaving the top till last. Once I’d got most of the **** out from the top side of the hatch I then removed aluminium top cover. This is a simple process and simply requires the use of a flat screwdriver as pictured below but be careful not to open the tabs up to much:
With the top cover off I then continued to remove the silicon sealer from under the top cover again using a Stanley knife. It was at this stage when I accidently found out how to soften the black silicon sealer up whilst I wiping down the glass for the pretty pictures
I used a simple, cheap and very strong chemical called Acetone. This is the very stuff used by women to remove nail polish so if it can do that with the amount that my wife wears then hell it sure proved to be strong enough to seriously soften Silicon Sealer. So as you cut out the sealant from the top side keep covering it with the Acetone using a 1 inch paint brush – Hell this would have saved me the best part of 3 hours so far 
I actually ordered the correct tool for the job in the form of a silicon screen cutter pictured below which I was hoping would finish the job but DON’T WASTE YOUR MONEY on one as again this also proved to be **** and will definantly end up with shattered glass all over your garage floor!
One of the tools however which I found to be exceptional good and as advised by ‘Porsche Doc’ was the modified scraper blade approach. Purchase a 2 inch scraper and then use an angle grinder and cut out as illustrated below:
Once you have cut out to the above shape then sharpen it again using the angle grinder:
The above tool is simply excellent at getting into all of those tight areas and when used with the acetone it make light work of the task at hand!
So with the top side now de-silicon sealed it’s time to start the next headace of a task – Removing the remailing silicon sealer from the under side. First start on the bottom egde and use a small craft knife and the acertone to scrape your way through the silicon so that you can push a piece of Picture Frame wire through the hole from one side to another (Please note that in the picture below I first used a light weight wire – Again theis is **** and snaps every 5mm of cutting so set the heavy weight stuff – It’s about 1.5mm thick and ensure that it is breaded):
Once you have threaded the picture wire through the hole then use 2 marker pens or screwdriver handles and wrap and tape the stuff around as below:
Once the above is done then use the cutting action as illustrate below. This will ensure that you do not damage the glass or put pressure on it. But before using the cutting wire approach get as much of the sealant off by scraping and using acetone and a sharp craft knife as possible. Also be prepared that the wire will break a lot so you are going to need about 15 meters of the stuff. And good DIY store sells this stuff for next to nothing!
The rest of the process just requires patience, lots of scraping, cutting and before you know it the FU@K3R OFF
I see the Light!
Almost there with one corner to go – Yes the bottom corners are by far the worst!
Simply Pornographic – I jump around the garage and open another beer
Ok now that the hard work is done put the frame to one side for the moment – I’m going to show you how to resort this later with a can of Etching Primer followed by a few coats of good old Satin Black … Before you know it you’ll have it looking as good as brand new. But before we jump the gun lets deal with removing the old black damaged paint and replacing with new!
Heres a trick for you all … Before scraping of the old black window paint turn the window over and use masking tape to follow the line of the OEM black mask. This is so that you can retain your OEM exact finish and knowbody will ever tell the difference regarding shape etc. See pictures below:
Obviously do the above once you have given the top surface a good clean. Use anything like washing up liquid or even more of the acetone.
Now turn the screen back over. Be careful the B45T4RDS heavy unlike the extruded aluminium frame which is really feather light! And below are the first tools we are going to use which consist of a small tub of paint stripper (Nitromors) and a 2 inch brush we used earler with the acetone:
Cover all of the old paint with the paint striper and go and open another beer. Put your feet up for 15 minutes or in my case consume another 3 more beers and then use a sharp surgical scalpel and simply scrap away until all gone. The surgical scalpel I used I guarantee will not scratch the glass:
Once the paint is all removed you can bask in glory – Again more beer!
Shortly I will be covering in detail how to add new black paint and what products to use, where to buy from and then I’ll deal with hatch frame restoration followed by sealing the ****er back again. This entire job any novice can do and this will save you some serious money and can all be done over the corse of a weekend.
I tried other techniques for removing the silicon sealer also but the above is simply the best (see below) way I have found to do the job. You can also try using paint stripper instead of acetone as this also softens up the Silicon to help cutting it our much more easy.
The above product is CRAP – Again don’t waste your money on the above rubbish … You can’t even get high of the fumes it’s that ‘**** poor’ even after I left it on over night!
I hope this will help many of you permanently repair your damaged old silicon sealant and this will also help those wanting to fit a Lexan hatch – If the truth be known the reason I removed the glass is purely to take a mould from regarding the Vented F40 style Lexan hatch I am now well underway with final development.
Tomorrow I will detail the hatch frame restoration and post all picture here
Best regards,
Mark
Before I embarked on the ridiculously time consuming and finger cutting epic of a challenge I used Rennlist and various other forums to try and find a good guide on how best to tackle the challenge and well as per usual Rennlist came up trumps and lead me to a document which ‘Porsche Doc’ has kindly written http://karl.wilen.us/images/944HatchReseal.doc
So off I went to the local DIY store to purchase a few bits and pieces as suggested in the links document above and set about the challenge.
But as always and as great as the methods used by others, just sometimes you discover a quicker and simpler way of doing things as I learnt along the way so I’m pleased to share with you all what I will nowl call ‘Remove the B45T4RD in 2 Hours’
Pelican Parts also has a great tutorial which details why the glass silicon seal starts to separate overtime and you can check this out here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ss_repair2.htm
So on with the task at hand and the below picture shows some of the tools I used most of which turned out to be absolute S41T:
Firstly after having removed the hatch from the car and removed the TRS spoiler I have fitted I used a sharp Stanley Knife to cut all of the excess black silicon sealer out from the top surface of the hatch:
As the pictures above illustrate in detail I worked my way around the hatch leaving the top till last. Once I’d got most of the **** out from the top side of the hatch I then removed aluminium top cover. This is a simple process and simply requires the use of a flat screwdriver as pictured below but be careful not to open the tabs up to much:
With the top cover off I then continued to remove the silicon sealer from under the top cover again using a Stanley knife. It was at this stage when I accidently found out how to soften the black silicon sealer up whilst I wiping down the glass for the pretty pictures
I used a simple, cheap and very strong chemical called Acetone. This is the very stuff used by women to remove nail polish so if it can do that with the amount that my wife wears then hell it sure proved to be strong enough to seriously soften Silicon Sealer. So as you cut out the sealant from the top side keep covering it with the Acetone using a 1 inch paint brush – Hell this would have saved me the best part of 3 hours so far I actually ordered the correct tool for the job in the form of a silicon screen cutter pictured below which I was hoping would finish the job but DON’T WASTE YOUR MONEY on one as again this also proved to be **** and will definantly end up with shattered glass all over your garage floor!
One of the tools however which I found to be exceptional good and as advised by ‘Porsche Doc’ was the modified scraper blade approach. Purchase a 2 inch scraper and then use an angle grinder and cut out as illustrated below:
Once you have cut out to the above shape then sharpen it again using the angle grinder:
The above tool is simply excellent at getting into all of those tight areas and when used with the acetone it make light work of the task at hand!
So with the top side now de-silicon sealed it’s time to start the next headace of a task – Removing the remailing silicon sealer from the under side. First start on the bottom egde and use a small craft knife and the acertone to scrape your way through the silicon so that you can push a piece of Picture Frame wire through the hole from one side to another (Please note that in the picture below I first used a light weight wire – Again theis is **** and snaps every 5mm of cutting so set the heavy weight stuff – It’s about 1.5mm thick and ensure that it is breaded):
Once you have threaded the picture wire through the hole then use 2 marker pens or screwdriver handles and wrap and tape the stuff around as below:
Once the above is done then use the cutting action as illustrate below. This will ensure that you do not damage the glass or put pressure on it. But before using the cutting wire approach get as much of the sealant off by scraping and using acetone and a sharp craft knife as possible. Also be prepared that the wire will break a lot so you are going to need about 15 meters of the stuff. And good DIY store sells this stuff for next to nothing!
The rest of the process just requires patience, lots of scraping, cutting and before you know it the FU@K3R OFF
I see the Light!
Almost there with one corner to go – Yes the bottom corners are by far the worst!
Simply Pornographic – I jump around the garage and open another beer
Ok now that the hard work is done put the frame to one side for the moment – I’m going to show you how to resort this later with a can of Etching Primer followed by a few coats of good old Satin Black … Before you know it you’ll have it looking as good as brand new. But before we jump the gun lets deal with removing the old black damaged paint and replacing with new!
Heres a trick for you all … Before scraping of the old black window paint turn the window over and use masking tape to follow the line of the OEM black mask. This is so that you can retain your OEM exact finish and knowbody will ever tell the difference regarding shape etc. See pictures below:
Obviously do the above once you have given the top surface a good clean. Use anything like washing up liquid or even more of the acetone.
Now turn the screen back over. Be careful the B45T4RDS heavy unlike the extruded aluminium frame which is really feather light! And below are the first tools we are going to use which consist of a small tub of paint stripper (Nitromors) and a 2 inch brush we used earler with the acetone:
Cover all of the old paint with the paint striper and go and open another beer. Put your feet up for 15 minutes or in my case consume another 3 more beers and then use a sharp surgical scalpel and simply scrap away until all gone. The surgical scalpel I used I guarantee will not scratch the glass:
Once the paint is all removed you can bask in glory – Again more beer!
Shortly I will be covering in detail how to add new black paint and what products to use, where to buy from and then I’ll deal with hatch frame restoration followed by sealing the ****er back again. This entire job any novice can do and this will save you some serious money and can all be done over the corse of a weekend.
I tried other techniques for removing the silicon sealer also but the above is simply the best (see below) way I have found to do the job. You can also try using paint stripper instead of acetone as this also softens up the Silicon to help cutting it our much more easy.
The above product is CRAP – Again don’t waste your money on the above rubbish … You can’t even get high of the fumes
it’s that ‘**** poor’ even after I left it on over night!I hope this will help many of you permanently repair your damaged old silicon sealant and this will also help those wanting to fit a Lexan hatch – If the truth be known the reason I removed the glass is purely to take a mould from regarding the Vented F40 style Lexan hatch I am now well underway with final development.
Tomorrow I will detail the hatch frame restoration and post all picture here
Best regards,
Mark
05-06-2008, 11:39 PM
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Hi DanR well I also have a solution for you with what your about to embark on.
I will cover this shortly and show you how to do the entire interior in less that 3 hours mate so watch this space - The key word is DRY ICE mate
Beni is about to do this himself so I will ensure that he takes loads of pictures for us all and I'll get him to PM you with all the right tools and chemicals you needs but seriously if you can't wait until then, then go get yourself a 5 ltr container of acetone it really is amazing stuff.
2 years back I removed a full interior for a track day build for a friend. I used a heat gun and scrapper and this method took me over 40 hrs.
Best regards,
Mark
P.S. FRporscheman - Thanks for the comments and please post a link to this in the 968 forum as I hope it help a lot of us owners out mate.
Hopefully come this friday me and Beni are going to be buying a light damaged 968 so expect some serious tutorials for you guys to come soon as we will be covering a full car ground up rebuild and restoration project followed by some serious chassis re-developments
I will cover this shortly and show you how to do the entire interior in less that 3 hours mate so watch this space - The key word is DRY ICE mate
Beni is about to do this himself so I will ensure that he takes loads of pictures for us all and I'll get him to PM you with all the right tools and chemicals you needs but seriously if you can't wait until then, then go get yourself a 5 ltr container of acetone it really is amazing stuff.
2 years back I removed a full interior for a track day build for a friend. I used a heat gun and scrapper and this method took me over 40 hrs.
Best regards,
Mark
P.S. FRporscheman - Thanks for the comments and please post a link to this in the 968 forum as I hope it help a lot of us owners out mate.
Hopefully come this friday me and Beni are going to be buying a light damaged 968 so expect some serious tutorials for you guys to come soon as we will be covering a full car ground up rebuild and restoration project followed by some serious chassis re-developments
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05-07-2008, 10:27 AM
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i have a friend that is a great glass guy. I may have him swap glass from my 968 hatch and my original hatch- both which i think were starting to separate- but my 968 hatch is scratched up pretty bad. I'll do a writeup if i ever take up this project...but im letting the professional do it.
05-07-2008, 09:09 PM
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Nice detailed write up Mark. I think the biggest point to stress is to go slow, and evenly around the glass as you separate it. This will help to prevent the glass from popping and breaking off a corner.
Depends on how separated your frame/glass are already. I have separated hatches in as little as 2 hours, and as much as 7-8 (with some time breaks of course) on the more stubborn ones. The ones that are more "intact" are the ones you need to go slower with and take your time.
Depends on how separated your frame/glass are already. I have separated hatches in as little as 2 hours, and as much as 7-8 (with some time breaks of course) on the more stubborn ones. The ones that are more "intact" are the ones you need to go slower with and take your time.
05-07-2008, 10:05 PM
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Many thanks to Porsche Doc
CurtP – Yes mate you are right I should have referred to it as urethane and I will cover this next stage shortly as did ‘Porsche Doc’
LFA951 – LOL mate … somebody has to open that proverbial can of worms so hell it might as well be me
Geneqco – Thanks for the comments mate but if the truth be known it’s all down to ‘Porsche Doc’ and the cut out scraper that he invented. I seriously cannot tell you all how good this works so please give it a go – but having said that make sure you get some acetone as well as they both work hand-in-hand!
PorscheDoc – Mate if it hadn’t been for the excellent write up that you previously posted then this would have taken me a lot longer so all the credit is down to you mate! I simply wanted to try a few new chemicals along the way – Some WORKED and some were simply S41T
Regarding what PorscheDoc has previously stated about the time to remove the glass I fully agree! Even though this is the first one I have done which proved to be a learning curve for me and took in excess of 12 hours I bet I could do the whole project again in 2-3 hours so if you guys are having problems with your hatch seal then give this a go, Yes it will not be fun but the elation of removing the glass is well worth all the effort!
Best regards,
Mark
P.S. I will report shorty on the refitting stage
LFA951 – LOL mate … somebody has to open that proverbial can of worms so hell it might as well be me
Geneqco – Thanks for the comments mate but if the truth be known it’s all down to ‘Porsche Doc’ and the cut out scraper that he invented. I seriously cannot tell you all how good this works so please give it a go – but having said that make sure you get some acetone as well as they both work hand-in-hand!
PorscheDoc – Mate if it hadn’t been for the excellent write up that you previously posted then this would have taken me a lot longer so all the credit is down to you mate! I simply wanted to try a few new chemicals along the way – Some WORKED and some were simply S41T
Regarding what PorscheDoc has previously stated about the time to remove the glass I fully agree! Even though this is the first one I have done which proved to be a learning curve for me and took in excess of 12 hours I bet I could do the whole project again in 2-3 hours so if you guys are having problems with your hatch seal then give this a go, Yes it will not be fun but the elation of removing the glass is well worth all the effort!
Best regards,
Mark
P.S. I will report shorty on the refitting stage
05-07-2008, 10:10 PM
#15
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This is an excellent write-up.... and has convinced me to buy a hatch that is not separating Way too much work for me when I have the belts to do and have a much better chance of success.
Actually, just changed the seal and diminished the rattling noises by a factor of 50%.
Way too much work for me when I have the belts to do and have a much better chance of success.Actually, just changed the seal and diminished the rattling noises by a factor of 50%.