Stuttgart996

I noticed it with my old 944 n/a and now with my turbo. Seems that it is not firm. The response is good but has a little play at speeds over 50. Wondering if any of you have experienced it. I am comparing it to newer cars and i do realize that it is 20 years old but wanted to see what you guys had to say about it.
thanks
chris

reno808

DUDE shake and play are 2 completely different things. Your car or any car shouldnt have either unless it does not have a r&p then you get a little play after a while.

fbgh2o

I do have the same on my 944 N/A and my 951. I chalked it up to a bit of wear in the front suspension and steering and imperfect balancing of the wheels. It also seems very much affected by the road surface type (i.e. old concrete vs. new asphalt etc.)

Caboose

I get a little vibration past 60mph, yes.

Stuttgart996

yeah i am changing my front wheel bearings in a 2 weeks so hopefully that will help. I just got the car aligned from porsche with koni suspension, tires are brand new and balanced. So wheel bearings is the only thing left...

Stuttgart996

and its play

Phil R

its hard to tell from your description. it could be tie rods, other suspension component, or a wheel tire issue or alignment problem. look for tire rod wear and examine your tires odd wear patterns. so basically anything between your hand and the road could be the cause.

Caboose

FYI A good balance and rotation will usually correct a lot of the vibration. Some people get their cars aligned once every three months or so. Its really cheap to do. IIRC $20.00 or so.

EDIT: (just read where you said it was play)
My 85.5' had some really loose steering (play) in it, I changed the R&P and it now drives stiff and responsive. Autozone carries R&P for 944's for IIRC $200.00 plus a $100.00 core.

You may want to try some cheaper/easier solutions first. Just thought I'd give my $0.02

Techno Duck

Play can be a couple of things. Worn steering shaft u-joints, worn tie rods, worn tie rod ends and bad ball joints.

reno808

it can also be your rack as well

kdjones2000

My wheel vibration in the steering wheel at ~80 were due to the old style caster blocks. They got old and had small cracks in them, which let the rear of the control arm have play it shouldn't have.

New 968 caster blocks, and it is as smooth as can be....

Cheers,

Keith

PS: Speed limits here outside of the city are 75MPH, so 80+ is common... Gotta love AZ

Ian Carr

No shake here.

Tom M'Guinn

Yes, I've had both. Re-balancing the wheels usually fixes vibration in the wheel. I changed my steering u-joint shaft when I pulled my motor, and ball joints, hoping that would tighten up the play. It didn't. Since my rack is leaking anyway, I'm going to try a rebuild to see if that helps the play.

jerome951

Try replacing the tie rod ends. It fixed my play. Also much cheaper and easier than rebuilding your rack.

Ski

Just to add another point in here: I was getting a little "pop" when pulling into my garage and it ended up being my ball joints - both replaced and the car is as tight as it can be. My vibration, when I have it, is usually because I lost a wheel weight. But I've started covering those on the inside with tape, just like on the track car.