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#1
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Finally replaced my HG and the car has started, however, after it warms up, it is blowing smoke (appears white), not heavily but this did not happen prior to my blowing the HG, could antifreeze still be in the system and is this simply a matter of time before it goes away? I tried to drive it to at least see if the smoke would clear up, but I could not get it into gear although the clutch felt good; the slave cylinder and line were changed last year. Appreciate some thoughts.
biggles
biggles
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I actually did a compression test, not sure if it were perfect, but they were all around 120. I know that's less than 130, but at least they were consistent. I have searched here for a writeup for the compression test, but could not find one.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
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smoke of all kinds is common after a head removal. Lots of oil and coolant have been spilled. susally give it a 10 minute drive to brun off the fluids. BTW - it you have to stop at a intersection in the first 5 miles be ready for a big plume of smoke....don't freak out!
#5
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another sure fired way to check is to:
warm engine
1) use a compression tester that has a quick connect (same as air hose fitting)
2) thread the hose piece into #1 spark plug hole
3) rotate engine around to TDC (both valves closed) on #1 (you can line up the cam mark to make this easy)
4) add about 100-120 psi slowly
5) listen and look in the reservoir for bubbles
rotate engine 90 degrees using the crank bolt and repeat steps on each cylinder following the firing order. Make sure you remove the ratchet when adding air as it may kick back.
I like this method b/c, I can also find other potential problems ie: bad valve, rings, HG etc by listening to the exhaust, intake, aos hose for air escaping excessively.
warm engine
1) use a compression tester that has a quick connect (same as air hose fitting)
2) thread the hose piece into #1 spark plug hole
3) rotate engine around to TDC (both valves closed) on #1 (you can line up the cam mark to make this easy)
4) add about 100-120 psi slowly
5) listen and look in the reservoir for bubbles
rotate engine 90 degrees using the crank bolt and repeat steps on each cylinder following the firing order. Make sure you remove the ratchet when adding air as it may kick back.
I like this method b/c, I can also find other potential problems ie: bad valve, rings, HG etc by listening to the exhaust, intake, aos hose for air escaping excessively.
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Thanks for the feedback and will address after work. With regards to the shifting problem, should I just play with the gear shift, or what other troubleshooting could be done? Is it the norm for these transmission related parts to “go bad” just from sitting?
biggles
biggles
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Car is running, gears are working and smoke appears to be gone, but as it was late before I could drive it will need to check again tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
biggles
biggles