Rip It

My new gasket has developed a leak after 3kmiles. It leaks just forward of the back housing bolt above the headers. I used permatex adhesive to glue the gasket to the head. After removing it last night I discovered the permatex had turned into a sticky gue not glue. The gasket had about a 2 inch piece near the intake manifold that was actually glued down to the head requiring a scrapper to remove. I had cleaned the surface with rubbing alcohol. Both surfaces are straight, I removed the lifters and installed the housing with 4 snugged bolts and a .004 feeler gauge would not enter between the two anywhere. I also used a straight edge and saw nothing unusual. I called a friend that used to work engines for nascar and he gave me a run down on what type sealants to apply where etc...
I am leaning towards not using any sealants. After doing a search on here sounds like there is no magical solution. I don't read anyone being leak free after using sealants, Clarks doesn't call for any so I am going to try doing it dry.
I will post if it starts to leak in 3k miles. see ya!

reno808

try dry it worked for me 5k lol then i took the whole motor apart lol

DDP

Is your cam tower powder coated? Sometimes the powder will soften due to heat and cause the cam tower to lose torque. It will then leak.

lejams

Has any one tried Lindeys Rubber Coated Steel Gasket? It looks like a solution.

hosrom_951

I removed the cam housing several times, clean and dry worked fine for me for 2 years now (i just replaced the gasket at anytime i remove the cam housing).

wolfenstein

i use 3m trim adhesive in a spray can to glue the gasket to the tower, works for me

951Tom

http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/2002/8-2002.htm

cosmo303

I just installed it today but haven't fired up the car yet but it looks like it should work well.

lejams

Let us know how it holds up

Chris White

Allways dry, never had one leak.
Of course you have to make sure everything is flat.
Our engines do not need extra sealant - if you have to use some than you haven't fixed the problem, you are just gooping on a band aid.
The only place I use any RTV type sealant is the 'corners' of the pan gasket and a very thin coat on the cooant passage of a Cometic gasket. Other than that I use dry gaskets or the correct anarobic sealant.

reno808

the only thing is after the car heats up let it cool and then retorque

lejams

+ the steel rubber/gasket is what should have always been from the start. This paper gasket is a joke. BMW uses the steel/rubber among others for similar apps.

lee101315

As long as the surfaces are perfect, you do not need any sealant. I rarely use silicone in my engine rebuilds.

Porsche knew what they were doing. You wont find many gaskets in an air cooled 911 engine.

Loquat15

GM uses rubber gaskets, they're typically good for about 60k miles and then they turn to brittle plastic...

Nothing is wrong with paper gaskets, they get the job done.... and you dont need any sort of sealant for them.

If i were to use a sealant for the cam tower gasket, i'd use a light coat of RTV... but i still think that it's quite unneccisary...

BTW, i've gone about 12k miles on a new paper gasket (dry install), no leaks. It was replaced due to me removing the head