BLKS? (brake light kill-switch - rv)
#1
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Do you guys ever get the urge to listen to 80's music whilst cruising in your P-car? I did that the entire night tonight and it really immersed me in the world this car was released into...
But on topic, I'm considering mounting a brake light kill-switch above the shifter, in one of the button place-holders that aren't in use. What I'd like to get your input on is what type of switch you think I should use and why. I'm already considering using a door lock switch and mounting it just to the right of the stock door lock switch because I like the stock look while still having a little eye candy in there as provided by the door lock switch's red light.
If you have any better ideas, let me know!
But on topic, I'm considering mounting a brake light kill-switch above the shifter, in one of the button place-holders that aren't in use. What I'd like to get your input on is what type of switch you think I should use and why. I'm already considering using a door lock switch and mounting it just to the right of the stock door lock switch because I like the stock look while still having a little eye candy in there as provided by the door lock switch's red light.
If you have any better ideas, let me know!
#3
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why kill power to the brake lights? Aren't they the most important safety feature on a car?
Anyways, i like the idea of using a stock button, like that of the Central locking button...just don't get the 2 confused! haha!
Anyways, i like the idea of using a stock button, like that of the Central locking button...just don't get the 2 confused! haha!
#4
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i understand what you are saying- i had this idea years ago and never did it- if i remember correct Steve McQueen's 911 had a brake like switch for those late night runs...
#5
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Not that I think it's a good idea, but....add up the amperage for all the lights you want to turn off. A good place to get the numbers is the fuse box. Also you will need to use a dual pole dual throw switch, one pole will be for the brakes the other for the tail lights. You can also use a different switch for each. Find an online wire gauge calculator, figure out what gauge to used based on the amperage for each circuit and the wire length.
To get an approximate rating for a factory switch, just check the fuse value(s) of what it controlls. I don't know if a door lock switch can handle the constant draw when the lights are not off also they're momentary switches. I think you best bet would be to use a hazard light switch, since its aready used to controll those very lights. Plus it's name is fitting for your intended use.
To get an approximate rating for a factory switch, just check the fuse value(s) of what it controlls. I don't know if a door lock switch can handle the constant draw when the lights are not off also they're momentary switches. I think you best bet would be to use a hazard light switch, since its aready used to controll those very lights. Plus it's name is fitting for your intended use.
#7
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The switch isn't hard, the brake wire is generally a small gauge wire that usually feeds a relay with a positive trigger, wire color should be red/white look at the brake switch for wire gauge size.
Simply cut the wire, and run a length of 16g speaker wire to the switch. I wouldn't use a door lock switch, as those are usually 'momentary' switches, which would require you to hold the switch during braking to kill the lights. You should probably use a wiper switch, as it's a latching on/off switch.
If you were real crafty about it, you could dissect the switch, and add a small LED flush mounted into it, so that you have a lighted visual to remind you if the brake wire is bypassed or not. If you wire the LED to where the positive leg is attached the brake switch output(goes positive when wire is cut), and hook the negative lead to the other end of the wire at the on/off switch, then if the brake lights are bypassed by your switch the LED would light up when you hit the brakes. Flick the switch to re-enable the brake lights and the LED won't light when you hit the brakes.
Simply cut the wire, and run a length of 16g speaker wire to the switch. I wouldn't use a door lock switch, as those are usually 'momentary' switches, which would require you to hold the switch during braking to kill the lights. You should probably use a wiper switch, as it's a latching on/off switch.
If you were real crafty about it, you could dissect the switch, and add a small LED flush mounted into it, so that you have a lighted visual to remind you if the brake wire is bypassed or not. If you wire the LED to where the positive leg is attached the brake switch output(goes positive when wire is cut), and hook the negative lead to the other end of the wire at the on/off switch, then if the brake lights are bypassed by your switch the LED would light up when you hit the brakes. Flick the switch to re-enable the brake lights and the LED won't light when you hit the brakes.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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I had one of those switches, its priceless when a cop is on your tail trying to pace-match your speed.
I used a regular toggle switch that interupted the ground on the brake light switch. Mine was mounted under the dash, just try to remember the on/off position.
I used a regular toggle switch that interupted the ground on the brake light switch. Mine was mounted under the dash, just try to remember the on/off position.