philcav7

I started the belt, roller, and WP replacement and as I assumed the pump is original. I have the updating kit with the guide bar and new 46mm roller.

I know that I have to modify the rear belt cover to fit the new pump and I have seen some sparse photos.

Does anyone have some clear pictures detailing this procedure? Before and after photos would be appreciated greatly.

Also, the set screw on my rotor is toast. 1/8" or 3mm did not work to remove the original locktite. Screw extractor did not work either and now the screw head is shot. Any suggestions here? Can a cut away the plastic on the rotor and remove it from the shaft with the screw in place then use vise grips from the side of the screw to remove it.

Thanks.

Phil

philcav7

Okay, the rotor is off. I cut/chipped away the plastic and used the vise grips.


Here is my latest dilema, this ones more fun. The 6mm allen bolt attaching the cam housing to the head is stripped. Damn. It is the second on back from the front, which has the hard pipe bracket on it. How in the hell do I get that out? Will one of the gator grip or such tools work?

F18Rep

Any chance you can drill the head off?...Bruce

Cory9584

maybe you can use an easy out?

philcav7

Craftsman sells a tool called the Bolt Out and the reviews have been positive, even for removing studs. It looks like an easy out but grips/cuts into the outer surface of the bolt. I'll pick up a set and try it.

If that doesn't work I will drill it out and try an extractor bit.

If that doesn't work I will drill/grind off the head of the bolt and use vice grips to turn it out when the cam is removed.

Jusii

For stripped allens I've used cheese head (XZN/triple square) drivers succesfully. Just hammered the driver in and opening gently.

reno808

One of my pressure plate bolts got stripped. i was able to drill into and then put in a reverse drill bit and turn it by hand. Just make sure your SQUARE

Cory9584

another alternate way is to take a chiesel and make a good notch on the top, then try to turn it out by chieseling into the notch to turn it preferably with a slightly duller chiesel. It also helps to heat where the bolt goes into a little bit to make it come out a little easier so it wont strip again.

Cory9584

on a side note, somebody cut my timing cover to fit a later pump aswell, im wondering if i can buy the right cover for it and if so what year cars did they come off?

Kool

FWIW

When I finish my rebuild I will be running without a timing cover. That should make checking and changing the T-belt much easier.

evil 944t

drill the head off. Start with a small bit or punch to center it and work your way up to larger bits. Once the head pops off the bolt will turn out by hand.

Maciek

Sounds like your job is as fun as mine was. I also had to destroy the rotor to pull it off and then had to drill this bolt out. That bolt was incredibly hard and took me a long time to drill. Get a 90 degree angle drill and a new drill bit and take it nice and slow. As has been previously mentioned, once the head is drilled off, the bolt will turn out easily.

2bridges

if you have the ability - by far the best method I have used is to weld a bolt to the head.
Let the heat penetrate 15 seconds or so and take it off. The heat makes all the difference.

Had to due this for the recessed pressure plate bolt somebody installed with a torx bit... tricky but got it handled

reno808

that was my plan b

lart951

Many don't recommend that , do you really want dirt, little road stones to get between the belt and the rollers???