Gator_86_951

I have seen a few others asking questions about this and I figured I would throw up a thread and verify I am correct about the installation of this kit before I have it welded tomorrow.

First / Second picture is the pan. Is this the correct placement approximately 2" from the drain with the flapper opening out?

Third picture is the pickup tube extension.

This is from the lindsey site: "We have found that early (86 and older) 944s have a larger diameter pick up tube screen and '87 and later models have a smaller one. This sometimes can vary. To accomodate this, we supply a stainless steel ring for the oil pick up that is longer than required, and you trim to fit your specific diameter."

In my case it seems like my pick up it one of the larger ones. Doesn't wrap all the way around as shown. Do i have this placement correct where the top of the ring is welded to the top of the pickup.

Seems others have found the drawing and directions to be less than clear as well. Now there is a thread with pictures!

pete95zhn

Looks like this: http://www.lindseyracing.com/mm5/mer...Code=OILPANBKI

Gator_86_951

Thanks Pete. Good thing that link is placed on the same page as where the product is offered.

jacksonrw

thanks
Mine is at the machine shop today to fix TON of stuff and i have mine there too for the tig welding of the baffle kit and skirt

turboted

FWIW, I suspect that the ring around the pickup tube may have been partially responsible for my low oil pressure problem. If the tube rests very near the bottom of the pan, that ring may inhibit adequate flow to the tube by limiting the intake surface area, especially under low-load conditions. I've seen a few different tubes and they are not all the same length. If you refer to my earlier posts, its also possible that my tube cracked when the welder installed this ring (old material + too much heat = problems). I haven't put my car back together yet, so I can't be 100% sure this caused my problem, but I have installed a new pickup tube with OUT the ring this time. I think the pan insert with the trap door is more than sufficient to protect against oil starvation...the ring may be overkill and cause other problems if tolerances are tight. Either way, whatever you decide, be very careful welding the ring to the tube. And make sure to weld the trap door insert in the right spot so the tube doesn't hit it. Just my $.02. Good luck.

ENGINEERMAN

FWITW, I also had the pickup tube silver soldered and braced up where it mates to the flange. Apparently this is a common failure point and really should be done at the same time that you are doing the rest of the upgrades. Auto Edge performed the upgrade for me.

In addition, I have an 86 model year and it was recommended that I upgrade teh plastic baffle to a 89 model as it is supposed to provide better return draining performance.

Also, Auto Edge prescribed a detailed sealing technique to prevent oil pan leaks later on. I detailed this process in a previous post but would be happy to repeat what they told me if you are interested. Basically, they recommended that I use Permatex Aircraft form a gasket and very light torque on the bolts. I followed their process to the letter and have seen 0 leaks from the oil pan gasket thus far.

Good luck!

95ONE

I'll go out on a limb here. I didn't install that ring and wouldn't suggest it. Baffle is in place.

Gator_86_951

Engineerman, are you talking about near the gusset area there by the flange? Mine has a little gusset on it that looks like it was added when the flange and the tube itself were mated together.

I also have a pickup tube reinforcement bracket that I sourced from the guys that make the i-j scrapers. This brace uses one of the main bearing caps and the idea is to change the geometry so the tube has less chance to vibrate. I was planning on having my welder braze this on with silver or whatever is used that has a much lower melting temperature. I was thinking that I would have him braze the ring extension on as well. Its not like I am going to stand on the tube or something and the oil won't heat the tube up hot enough to make that joint come apart.

Any ideas here?

Gator_86_951

I just looked up your thread and I agree that it looks like your pickup got super hot when it was welded. Maybe it caused some sort of crack like you speculate?

It looks like your pickup may be one of the smaller head designs compared to mine? Did the ring completely cover the head around the diameter? I can't tell from your pictures. On mine the ring does not completely cover the head around the diameter as shown in the picture, and there is a pretty significant gap and you would have to weld a lot of material to fill the gap. How about covering the height of the tube? The total "height" of my tube is such that there is still some mesh beyond the ring when attached as suggested and shown in the picture.

I am, of course, just trying to make sure this thing actually gets me around for a season.

Sorry I wasn't able to lend some "951" hands to you, I was only home for about 24 hours and I had to leave.

Ski

Had the LR kit, with ring on the track car for almost 4 years, never had a problem with anything, much less oil pressure. A good welder, as we say in the oil industry, " can weld skin on a fart and has a rod for broken hearts." If a welder doesn't understand heat transfer, the amperage on his machine, then the holder/rod shouldn't be in his hands. The ring is just to deflect oil from going away from the pick up, as the door is to stop it from going away. There is some pretty good stuff on the market these days to stop heat transfer if a welder can't figure out to go opposite of his tac weld to keep the heat down.

Gator_86_951

I found the auto edge procedure, and I think I am going to go with it dry. I also have oil pan retainers that were made by RLister myswiss some time ago. I will go ahead and use those. Since this car is going to be doing almost all track time I will probably want to check/replace the rod bearings in the future. I am afraid the aircraft permatex might be impossible to get off at that point. I dunno, I think about it overnight.

944CS

how does the lindsey kit allow for oil to drain when you are changing the oil?

Gator_86_951

As far as I know our welder is good. He does it all day and all he does is fabrication and has done it for like 20 years I presume. Just wanted to make sure I didn't need to worry about the heat. I am the first to admit that I don't know much about welding. Never had a platform to worry about it. I am just going to trust his judgment.

Thanks for chiming in with the experience. As always, your experience and opinion is much appreciated.

Gator_86_951

Good question.

The part of the sump on the opposite side of the baffle isn't all that big. I suspect it is at most 1/4-1/2 quart. If you had to you could probably stick a screw driver into the drain **** hole to push the door aside to allow the remaining oil to drain out. I don't recall the orientation of the oil pan in the car, but assume the oil drain is lower than the top part of the sump segrated by the baffle, no?

Tom M'Guinn

I'd want to spend a little time cleaning out that pan before assembling. Not to be preachy, but all the internally lubricated parts should be as free from debris and gunk as humanly possible. Grime is the enemy.

Edit: I found this picture of mine after several hours of cleaning. Your's may not get this new looking, but you get the idea...