block work precautions
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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block work precautions
What procedures and or precautions need to be taken when getting block work done on the turbo motors? I have heard that there is a special way of boring that needs to be used for these motor... ? What can you all tell me about that? Thanks for the help
#2
Nothing special if done correctly, but if not can be disastrous. All these blocks are machined the same way. The Piston bores are honed then lapped and brushed with pads and a special polish.
Best to get someone who knows this work to do it.
Best to get someone who knows this work to do it.
#5
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It will totally affect what pistons/coatings you can use depending on how it's done.
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Well here's what I'm doing and if you could shead some insight on it, stock block as of now, I'm wanting to just go .020 to get rid of the light scoring on the cylander walls. I will be using CP pistons. From what you all say, I will need to get in contact with some one about the correct rings and correct polish on the block right?
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You need to send it to someone who has the proper equipment to bore, hone & lap alusil bores (stones, felt pads, compound). Typically Sunnen equipment and materials are used.
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#12
There's some very specific technique and very specific tools and materials required for re-boring and honing the Alusil cylinders used in many Porsche and BMW models.
All the information you need is HERE .
The honing processed and materials are discussed in detail from page 57 on. You need a machine shop with a Sunnen honing mill, the correct Alusil stones, pads, & pastes, and some real experience with using them. Its fairly easy to destroy a block using Chevy honing procedures.
All the information you need is HERE .
The honing processed and materials are discussed in detail from page 57 on. You need a machine shop with a Sunnen honing mill, the correct Alusil stones, pads, & pastes, and some real experience with using them. Its fairly easy to destroy a block using Chevy honing procedures.
#14
Burning Brakes
After reading everything on this link I am still wondering what Alusil really is. Is it a coating that must be applied to a block after it is bored out? Or is the silicon already in the block and is exposed with lapping paste. What is the truth???
I have heard that after a 951 is bored out, the cylinder walls are too soft and wear out fast.
By people who really know for a fact and have or rebuilt a 951 personally!
What is the longevity of a 951 engine after a rebuild? OR is it better to just sleeve the block?
I have heard that after a 951 is bored out, the cylinder walls are too soft and wear out fast.
By people who really know for a fact and have or rebuilt a 951 personally!
What is the longevity of a 951 engine after a rebuild? OR is it better to just sleeve the block?
#15
Alusil is not a coating. Alusil is an aluminum/silicon matrix, (ALU-minum SIL-icon). The honing process removes the aluminum exposing the harder silicon. Relatively speaking, if the engine is built or tuned wrong, Alusil can be more vulnerable. But a bad build or mis-tuned engine, etc., you will have catastrophic consequences with any type of block or sleeve - period. Alusil blocks will perform x hundreds of thousands of miles. The longevity of any engine depends on how & what you build it for, and how you maintain it, and how you drive it. Thus to say, a properly maintained 951 engine in stock form as Porsche designed it with the Alusil bores is good for 300k ++. The turbo and other parts will wear out long before the block will. Sleeving is another option with different benefits then the stock Alusil cylinder walls, i.e. many more pistons available, more forgiving then Alusil, in that individual sleeves can be replaced making the next re-build perhaps easier. Regardless of Alusil or sleeving, whoever does the work better know what the hell they are doing, otherwise the pain is just from a different unadvantageous point.