ehall

Okay, here's the deal. I have plenty of good tools, however, I'm certain there are tools that are semi specific to a long block build out that I'm missing.

Here's the deal. The SHORT BLOCK will be professionally ASSEMBLED by a professional engine builder. So the list of tools would include those things that I'll need once I get the engine off of the pallet.
Obviously I need a better, higher lift jack and a few more solid jack stands.
I'll need T-belt tension tools, probably from Bruce Arn
Take it from there please.

fortysixandtwo

So, you're getting the completed long block (oil pan to cam box) and need to install the water pump, accessory drive brackets, engine brackets, intake etc....?

ehall

Tentatively. I may build out the long block with a pre assembled short block, so let's start from there...as a just in case.

schwank

All the requisite sockets - 10,13,17,19mm both standard and deep well. You'll need a set of hex drivers, preferably thin, for bolts like the intake and throttle body. The Arnnworx tools are nice for sure. Long screwdrivers for hose clamps. Wrenches for fuel lines.

Basically you would need intake, fuel rail, water pump, AC, alternator, and the throttle body/AFM/airbox stuff.

ehall

other than the timing belt tools, and probably a much better torque wrench, it sounds like I've got all that I need.
I'm just trying to make sure I'm not stuck in the middle of everything and realize "Oh ****!" I need a_____!
So I'm trying to cover all of my bases in advance.
I have a full load out snap-on ratchetts and sockets.

Gator_86_951

You need a flywheel lock. It would also be good to have a 6mm T-handled allen wrench or a turned down 6mm allen socket to attach the cam box. 10mm triple square for the flywheel bolts. Unsure the triple square size on the end of cam fastener Gigantic wrenches to assembled the cam box, I use 1 1/4. You will also need these to reattach the oil lines. That is all I can think of right now.

You will need an adapter for a regular engine stand. I made one by drawing it out and then plasma cutting it out of a piece of 1/8 in steel. Depending on your timing, my engine may be installed and you are welcome to borrow my adapter as well as engine stand if you would like. My engine goes in after the exam in march

ehall

Thanks Andrew. I'm looking at mid summer, so that might work out.
I'm now accumulating a block/girdle and a head, so that I can get most of the work done while my engine stays in the car. It's real hassle with the lack of professionalism of the few builders here in Jacksonville.
Frankly, I don't give a **** if God Almighty builds an engine. If they don't have enough courtesy, business sense nor customer service to pick up a damned phone to return a call from a legitimate customer, than why in the Hell should I trust them with 10 grand of my cash?
IDIOTS!

Gator_86_951

Fair enough. I won't be in town any longer at that point, but my engine stand will be at my friend's shop south of town. I am moving in late march - april.

Standard engine stands don't have long enough fingers to support a 944 and the adapters that people sell are somewhat expensive.

FRporscheman

A long 6mm allen is a must for the 8v. A SUPERB set of cheesehead sockets is a must for the 16v. But even for the 8v you need at least a superb 12mm cheesehead for the cam bolt, and I think the flywheel bolts too.

In general, a great tool to have is a set of ratcheting open/box wrenches. Not just for the engine but all over the car. Man, are they useful.

blodstrupmoen

Here u go

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching
flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the
chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against
that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere
under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints
and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it
takes you to say, "Yeou $#!+...."

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age.

SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation
of blood-blisters. The most often the tool used by all women.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer
intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the
conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various
flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the
grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or ½
socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground
after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack
handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile
upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any
known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any
possible future use.

RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most
shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength
of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that
inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes
called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine
vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health
benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at
about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during,
say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark
than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under
lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing
oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip
out Phillips screw heads. Women excel at using this tool.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used
to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a
coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into
compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact
wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last overtightened 30 years
ago by someone at Ford, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also
used to quickly snap off lugnuts.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts
adjacent to the object we are trying to hit. Women primarily use it to
make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly
well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic
bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic
parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in
use.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage
while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most
often, the next tool that you will need

xsboost90

8mm,10mm,12mm,13mm,14mm,15mm,17mm and 19mm + 22 and 24mm for a couple things- sockets/wrenches

plenty of extentions and swivel ends,1/4,3/8 and 1/2" drives

full set of triplesquare/cheesehead sockets- they have them at autozone

hammer...

ratcheting wrenches come in very handy- i have 10mm-19mm and they rock

full set of metric allen sockets - esp. 6mm, 8 and 10mm.

adjustable wrench and vice grips- for those bolts that just dont cooperate

long 6mm allen socket to get down through the middle of the cambox since a wrench doesnt give you much torque and a socket is usually too large to fit in there. I used a cutoff long 6mm wrench and a 6mm socket w/ some tape to hold it in the socket. works fine.

PorscheDoc

You can just use a longer bolt with some washers stacked between the fingers and the engine. That's how I mount all mine on a standard stand.

FRporscheman

That's a good idea and works for me too. Another idea that also works (what I used to do) I just used a normal long 6mm allen wrench, and use a narrow pipe for more leverage and torque.

333pg333

Gator_86_951

I did this in the past but I felt like the long bolts were under too much sheer. Also, I was only able to physically attach 3 fingers and it made rotating the engine around very sketchy. I might just end up sending the adapter to him in the mail along with the fasteners.

Also, I tend to have my engines on stands for awhile, like multiple months, so...